Emisar D3AA is available now

well that made for an interesting google search… did find a couple of hits though “[1]”:Reddit - Dive into anything, “[2]”:Reddit - Dive into anything.

any ideas if the 3500k e21a is coming back in stock?

Hey Hank,

Any update on when the new clip design will be released?

I got my KR1 today.
I’m not perfectly happy with 2 things:

  • the switch feel ain’t good. I much prefer my piston e-switch light from CRX.
  • I hate clips and I don’t use lanyard. Forcing me to use either a lanyard ring or a switch is unfortunate. At the lower edge of OK but definitely not good.

Other than this - a good light.

Sadly that’s true. I’ve disassembled mine and tried to improve it, but failed. I think there’s not much potential for modding the original switch.

Not sure what you mean. You can use the flashlight without any ring if you want. There will be a tiny gap, but it doesn’t affect water resistance or function.

Is the brass disc the equivalent of the plastic nubbin in the FW ?

I don’t have a KR to play with but has anyone tried an o-ring mod in this switch? Seems to have very similar design and other than dimensional changes, I can’t see why it wouldn’t have a similar result.

Yes, the nubbin for the KR4 is brass.

I tried the mod on my KR4 with a #36 O-ring. The button felt worse for me. No increase in resistance and more side to side slop. I might try again if I can 3D print a gasket that sits between the button lip and tail cap to stabilize and reduce the slop. I actually use these gaskets on FW3s and it makes a really nice clicky E-switch. I just need to size it up to match the dimensions of the KR4 body.

I put the brass nubbin over the bump on the metal button cover and it vastly improved the feel of my KR4Ti switch. It fits perfectly there, so I figured it had just been assembled wrong at the factory.

The gap is indeed tiny with 18350 tube but with 18650 one can clearly see that something is missing. It works but looks bad.
I guess I’ll just file the tubes a bit,

Let me know if this is right… (again, I don’t own a KR light — yet)

The order you used was:

SS switch button > Brass nubbin > Rubber boot > Switch board ?

This means you have rubber rubber adjacent to the diaphragm switch, assuming I’m correct. More or less this is what is ultimately desired IMO to increase activation force.

This also makes me wonder how an o-ring would perform in the “trakcon” configuration…

When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?

When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?

Does the lanyard ring from the KR1 fit a D4 Ti (first edition)? I now I have to sand the tail cap down to make room for a lanyard ring, but does the inner diameter of the lanyard ring fit (with or without sanding)?

That order is correct. It doesn’t take much force to activate, though. I always use lockout, so it’s perfect for me.

I added a Lee Zircon 803 filter to my KR4 E21A 2200K, and it looks even better. I liked it before, but I really really like it now.

It’s a combination of the first and third issues you described. The button does not sit as snugly against the tail cap as the O-ring (at least the ones I use) are thinner than the brass nub, so there’s loss in height. This also makes the button wobbly, not moving as straight up and down and more prone to rubbing and jamming against the edge of the tail cap.

That's my thought as well ^^^^^^^^^^^

Interestingly, the O-ring mod did not increase activation force for my KR4 like it did on all of my FW3s. So I didn’t bother to 3D print a larger gasket to fix the button slop. Though I might try trakcon’s configuration and see if that will make the switch action better for me.

Follow up:

I added an O-ring to trakcon’s configuration. So the order of parts from outside to inside:
Button
Brass nubbin
Rubber boot
O-ring
Switch board

By moving the brass nubbin to the button, the clicky feedback feeling increased. After adding the O-ring, it seemed to stabilize the button and is less wobbly. It’s stable enough where I don’t think I’ll need to add a gasket around the button like I did in the FW3s. The click is less pronounced than the FW3s though.

Not sure how you all managed to put the brass nubbin between the steel button and the silicone boot. The little steel nubbin on the steel button has an OD of 3.5 mm and the brass nubbin has an ID of 3 mm. Or something has changed from early to later models.

Anyway, I tried the spacer ring between tailcap and steel button as described by someone else in this forum for the FW3A. My first try with 0.4 mm thickness was already good enough. Less wobbly, but also slightly easier to activate. Also the button does not scratch against the tailcap anymore. I’ll keep it like this for a while.

Here’s my OpenSCAD model:

$fn=100;

linear_extrude(0.4) {
  translate([7.5, 0])
  square([20, 0.4]);

  difference() {
    circle(d=15.8);
    circle(d=14.6);
  }
}

The little string is for getting it off the bed easier without damaging it.

Thanks for the OpenSCAD file! It’s off your brass price does not fit on the steel portion. Maybe try printing a replacement nub?