When you say side to side slop, do you mean the SS switch cover would become loose®? Or does that mean it became more sensitive to pressure on the edge of the swtich? Or that when pressing the button, it would seem to move “off-axis”, i.e. not just straight down and back?
Does the lanyard ring from the KR1 fit a D4 Ti (first edition)? I now I have to sand the tail cap down to make room for a lanyard ring, but does the inner diameter of the lanyard ring fit (with or without sanding)?
That order is correct. It doesn’t take much force to activate, though. I always use lockout, so it’s perfect for me.
I added a Lee Zircon 803 filter to my KR4 E21A 2200K, and it looks even better. I liked it before, but I really really like it now.
It’s a combination of the first and third issues you described. The button does not sit as snugly against the tail cap as the O-ring (at least the ones I use) are thinner than the brass nub, so there’s loss in height. This also makes the button wobbly, not moving as straight up and down and more prone to rubbing and jamming against the edge of the tail cap.
That's my thought as well ^^^^^^^^^^^
Interestingly, the O-ring mod did not increase activation force for my KR4 like it did on all of my FW3s. So I didn’t bother to 3D print a larger gasket to fix the button slop. Though I might try trakcon’s configuration and see if that will make the switch action better for me.
Follow up:
I added an O-ring to trakcon’s configuration. So the order of parts from outside to inside:
Button
Brass nubbin
Rubber boot
O-ring
Switch board
By moving the brass nubbin to the button, the clicky feedback feeling increased. After adding the O-ring, it seemed to stabilize the button and is less wobbly. It’s stable enough where I don’t think I’ll need to add a gasket around the button like I did in the FW3s. The click is less pronounced than the FW3s though.
Not sure how you all managed to put the brass nubbin between the steel button and the silicone boot. The little steel nubbin on the steel button has an OD of 3.5 mm and the brass nubbin has an ID of 3 mm. Or something has changed from early to later models.
Anyway, I tried the spacer ring between tailcap and steel button as described by someone else in this forum for the FW3A. My first try with 0.4 mm thickness was already good enough. Less wobbly, but also slightly easier to activate. Also the button does not scratch against the tailcap anymore. I’ll keep it like this for a while.
Here’s my OpenSCAD model:
$fn=100;
linear_extrude(0.4) {
translate([7.5, 0])
square([20, 0.4]);
difference() {
circle(d=15.8);
circle(d=14.6);
}
}
The little string is for getting it off the bed easier without damaging it.
Thanks for the OpenSCAD file! It’s off your brass price does not fit on the steel portion. Maybe try printing a replacement nub?
Please help - completely off topic and I apologize but can anyone help me with what optic the KR4 comes with stock? 10621 / –22 / –23? I am pretty sure I know its not the –23. i ordered a –21 from Mtn electronics because i thought the KR4 came with a –22, but the –21 kind of looks like whats in my light now? I don’t want to bother Hank with these basic questions… again…
I believe the normal KR4 comes with the 10622, and the E21A variants come with 10623. I much prefer the 10621 in my SST-20 D4’s and KR4’s.
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didn’t get a 10622 sent to me… I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. I’m new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
You could make a 22 optic into a 23 by sanding with 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper to make it frosted.
You’re welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.
Dude, that is awesome and very helpful! I was just able to confirm I did get the 10621 thanks to that picture. Thank you!
Thank you scalpel_ninja also for the tip on sanding the 22 to a 23!
Any time! Let us know how you like the 21.
I just popped it in the KR4 (sst-20 5000k) and… Wow, its awesome! I recently bought that 10621 along with the 10623, 10507 and 10509 to switch my optics up. I was saving the 10621 for my “custom” (from Hank) d4v2 brass with W2’s (my first d4v2 :D) that is in route to me now, due this week, thinking I would put the 10623 in my KR4 and have a “thrower” and a “flood” edc, respectively. But now I’m scratching that and putting together a Mtn electronics order to get another 10621 for the KR4. It almost looks like it gave me 50% more throw. I know its not that much, but it is definitely noticeable over the 10622, much more then I expected! Almost looks like it throws as far as my EC03 (I just got that one in this week too, another great little torch!). No wonder why this hobby is so damn addictive… :innocent: Thanks for the help again.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you like the results. I have 10621’s and 10507’s in most of my quads and triples. It’s made a huge difference in enjoyment of use for me.
Received the soft blue camo today with Fedex but without having asked it ; took 3 days . I have a better feeling with this switch than from my other ti . So now i have e21a’s in 5000,4500 and 5000/3500 .