I got mine installed and working. The aux board was… not easy, but it only took two tries 
I’m pretty satisfied by the aux (red) level in the dark, which is probably all I’ll use. I do wish the lowest level were a bit lower, but plenty of time to play with that in software I s’pose. Thanks loneoceans!
How do I know I will get the negative if I scratch the masking where the aux board has the openning?
I only have my picture to go by but it actually looks like the space might be a little too tight (I edited my post to not recommend it). You have to stay on the “raised” area and it gets really narrow around the optic leg hole and postive part. I had more room to work cause Lexel’s board put the connection further out I think.
In any case it’s good to know this so here goes (my drawing might be slightly off cause im going off this image).
Look very closely at board and stay on the black shaded side of the orange line. If you look at the board you can see where the raised traces are for pos and neg. The sunken part (orange) is thermal DTP area and if you cross into that you will short to ground. You only want to scrape the white part until you see some copper.
Thank you contactcr! I will have a look tomorrow to see if I can se the traces and if I have room to scratch.
In te meantime, does anyone know if the thickness of the MCPCB is te same in all of those FW3x lights that had that kind of board? I think that in more recent lights, the thickness varies, between my LM10, FW3T and FW3C. But maybe it is just my impresson, as I did not measure. If anyone has the dimentions of the MCPCB contatct is showing above, it would help me to see if I have or can order one, before disassembling the light.
Titaniums and SS had thick MCPCB where others have normal 1.6mm i think
BTW send Victor Zhu a msg that you wanna purchase FW3 MCPCB. He send some my way when i asked.
^ the practical answer
Ordered 3 drivers, so hopefully I’ll be able to get at least one running. Thanks everyone for all the tips and advice. If anyone wanted to do a video of the driver install, that would also be awesome.
lume1 live stream this weekend! come create bonds while I create bridges.
smash the like and subscribe.
(in all serious I considered doing a video but I feel like I would have to edit it down a lot)
Dangit… now I think I want to swap the LEDs in my LM10 with Lume1 driver. I’m not looking forward to soldering all those tiny wires again. 
Recently I pulled out my bare aluminum FW3A. It has 4000K SST20 in it of a superior tint bin to the 4000K in my LM10. No green at all. Noticeably better than the tint bin in my LM10. Also that bare aluminum FW3A isn’t practical. It gets burning hot too fast. Now I want to swap the LEDs in both these lights.
Grrrrr…… the effort required to try to get a “perfect” light.
Did you try swapping just the lenses first? If it’s that noticeable it’s probably not just the lens but worth a shot.
Both lights are using 10507 optics with Sapphire lenses that I swapped in afterwards.
Actually the LM10 doesn’t look that bad. Tint still looks way less green than that in my Emisar D4 with SST-20.
But when put side-by-side, the tint of the SST-20 in my bare FW3A is noticeably better than that in all my other SST-20 lights. Even at low-power, it’s no greener than the tint in my high-CRI 4000K Nichia 219C light.
PM me values you need. I was too cheap to pay for a “book” so it might take a full day to find it. LOL
One of my FW3A lights is the first gen with a flat spot on the driver and non-symmetrical solder pads on the mcpcb. I was not thinking and decided to cut the aux board to make it fit the mcpcb and ended up cutting the trace for the red channel. Here is my repair:
Is there a chance that this driver will be available for purchase already installed in FW3A?
I don’t have great equipment to measure currents this small (or variable), but I was fooling around today and got idle currents of 62μA with the red aux leds on low, and ~35μA with them off, with peaks to around 250 when the MCU wakes up (which I wouldn’t really trust given the sample rate of the meter).
The temptation to bodge a current probe with a resistor and a differential probe is… large.
You saw the datasheet right? It may answer some of your curiosities
Yup! I’m just having fun (and confirming I can leave the aux LEDs on all the time).
FWIW, code for the Lume1 should be merged into fsm soon. I have it already merged in a dev branch, but I don’t have any hardware to test it on so I don’t know if it actually works. So, once it’s tested and confirmed to work, that branch can land. And then right after that, it should be easy to import into the anduril2 branch too.
The changes aren’t deep, but they touch on some parts which were completely rewritten since it was branched, so merging it has been a little more tricky than it would otherwise be. Not entirely sure if the external temperature sensor still works or if I broke it while adapting changes.
Will be available thoese kind of drivers for Lumintop EDC 18?
Just put the Lume1 in my FW1A XPL Hi (just driver, no aux board of course), and looking forward to seeing how the efficiency is. The emitter seems to be withstanding turbo even with 30Q. Don’t know if should be expected?
This is a practice run for using the driver for a W1 with a SMO reflector in the FW1A someone soon.