Just got in the SC31 Pro - Isabella from Sofirn sent me one. I'll probably review it up on Amazon. I have two SC31B's, one modded running Anduril with a XPL HI NW. Side by side they are really close. I'll compare the body/host part of the light, since the B model I have runs Anduril anyway, but loses the charging.
What's the same:
the pill area is identical - same finning, same size,same USB connection setup, same switch
battery tubes appear identical - same knurling, style, size
What's Different:
the front bezel on the Pro is clearly shorter by 4.0 mm, and appears the reflector is shallower
the Pro's clip is black SS while the B's is stock SS finish, otherwise they appear to be 100% identical
the tailcap on the Pro accommodates a wrist strap and is therefore longer than the B's. They can LEGO - swapped, they both fit/work fine
SMO reflector on the Pro, mild OP on the B
USB-C now on the Pro, old style USB on the B
I much prefer the B's tailcap on the Pro - overall length is reduced by 2.5 mm and I don't mind losing the lanyard hole. Beside, typical on Sofirn lights, the lanyard hole has some sharp edges that will be the first spots to wear off the anodizing. That corner style lanyard hole is prone to that, not just on Sofirn lights but the Lumintop EDC18 has the same issue though I suspect the EDC18 has better anodizing. Stock, the Pro and B are very close in length, the Pro slightly shorter.
So in my judgment Pros/Cons of the Pro compared to the B:
like the black SS clip over the SS color!
like they shortened the length in the head, probably from shortening the reflector
not a fan of the new tailcap with the sharp edged lanyard hole - it's extra length just about evens out the shortening of the front bezel
Of course a big plus of the Pro is USB-C charging, that you don't have to lose by modding the B up to FET based Anduril.
Thanks. Didn't mention I really like the modded SC31B, specially the cost with the Amazon deal, and the Pro is all that plus built in USB-C and of course a more powerful LED, with SMO that even has a pretty good look'n beam.
Th one I got is 6500K blue, but the 5000K SST-40 is one of my favs as of late - all that power plus great consistent tint.
It's no frills, but makes a nice EDC. With Anduril and a lit switch controlled by Anduril, it's a nice upgrade from a comparable size and purpose Convoy S2/S2+.
Thanks for your SC31 Pro review Tom E , and the comparison with SC31B .
It’s always beneficial when a review is added with comparison with other flashlight. Really good info on the tailcap compatibility with SC31B. Me too, i prefer magnetic tailcap and have been using that feature (in another flashlight) a lot. And never use lanyard at all.
The tailcap isn’t actually new. It’s a recycling of the tailcap from the SP32 series, and (obviously, now) interchangeable with the SP31 models.
I believe the shorter head of the Pro, combined with the SC31/B’s tailcap, or the new magnetic version, make for the most compact configuration of the their 18650 tube lights. I really like my SP32Av2s (XP-L2 beam aside), but I guess they think the SP31 is their direction going forward, by giving it a more balanced beam and the other new features.
I like the black clip as well. Hopefully at some point, Sofirn will make them available for sale as parts. I’d grab a couple at the same time as the magnetic cap for my B.
S2+ = very good quality budget light for the masses.
imo SC31 PRO = very good quality Anduril budget light for the masses.
(it’s the lowest priced Anduril flashlight , right?).
Well, about quality, I think it’ll take more time to find out, long-term durability will be a big factor here.
Hopefully Sofirn will be releasing it with various other emitters to suit people’s needs/preferences.
I’m sure there are many BLF users here with many experiences with Sofirn flashlights, are they durable? How do they compare to the Convoy S2+ ?
So far I only have Convoy flashlights , I really like them, more than 3 years EDC, really good and durable. One of my S2+ is always in my jean’s pocket.
Yup, very durable, except for the problematic biscotti driver, one of my S2+ is stuck in 100% mode . The 3/5 mode version has no problem at all.
My S2+’s “magnetic tailcap” is actually a regular tailcap with magnetic ring outside attached around the tail switch. How’s Sofirn SC31B’s magnetic tailcap construction, is it inside, beneath the tail spring? A coin-type magnet?
I kinda laugh at myself when reading this , I thought Jackie was a he .
:person_facepalming: .
I haven’t been on this forum long enough to know who is who :person_facepalming:
Yeah, names can be difficult sometimes. :-D I once also thought Jackie is a male name only. But here‘s a good example of a popular female person with that name...
Yep, I should know - I have a SP32 :FACEPALM: - think it's the original version, pics from June 2017. I gave up on the SP32 since it had a switch mount on a vertical board, making it very difficult to mod with a FET+1 driver. Here's some pics from them, probably posted elsewhere long ago, also showing the sharpness of the lanyard hole trim:
The tailcap does look unchanged, didn't try to LEGO yet.
Always thought it odd Sofirn was selling a SP32A V2 host here, and sold 9 of them, when the driver replacement is so difficult. Only other explanation is for replacing an original host. It has 1 5 star review as well, but in Russian.
When the SC31(B) came out, sure looked like a standard side switch PCB light:
Sure. Driver is glued down, plus it has a vertical board centered for mounting of the USB connector. From what I recall and what I typically do is desolder the LED wires from the MCPCB, then use a solder pick tool to push thru the wire hole, applying pressure. If pressure alone doesn't work, I'll give it a few taps of the hammer - lightly at first, trying the minimum amt of force that it takes to break the glue seal. For this SC31B, the vertical board broke off from the hammering (most likely). You can see the white glue (or silicon) on the bottom and a little on the top.
I've removed many glued drivers using this method. With the solder pick, usually you can salvage the stock driver with minimum damage, sometimes a surface mount gets damaged bad - usually you can "feel" if the solder pick is on an IC or not.
I suspect the Pro driver is glued down as well. The brass ring around the driver on the spring side doesn't look threaded down to me - I've seen these thin brass rings used before to protect the driver from wear and tear and to make good contact with the tube. I've even desoldered those rings and re-used them on a driver replacement. For my modded SC31B, I did not glue the BLF driver - the tube threads down to hold it in place. This works for me -- don't like glue.
These are the glued driver removal tools, EDC18 driver shown:
Thank you for the detailed response Tom E!
I was thinking about doing something like that. But I definitely expected some damage would happen. But this is good information.
