The tailcap isn’t actually new. It’s a recycling of the tailcap from the SP32 series, and (obviously, now) interchangeable with the SP31 models.
I believe the shorter head of the Pro, combined with the SC31/B’s tailcap, or the new magnetic version, make for the most compact configuration of the their 18650 tube lights. I really like my SP32Av2s (XP-L2 beam aside), but I guess they think the SP31 is their direction going forward, by giving it a more balanced beam and the other new features.
I like the black clip as well. Hopefully at some point, Sofirn will make them available for sale as parts. I’d grab a couple at the same time as the magnetic cap for my B.
S2+ = very good quality budget light for the masses.
imo SC31 PRO = very good quality Anduril budget light for the masses.
(it’s the lowest priced Anduril flashlight , right?).
Well, about quality, I think it’ll take more time to find out, long-term durability will be a big factor here.
Hopefully Sofirn will be releasing it with various other emitters to suit people’s needs/preferences.
I’m sure there are many BLF users here with many experiences with Sofirn flashlights, are they durable? How do they compare to the Convoy S2+ ?
So far I only have Convoy flashlights , I really like them, more than 3 years EDC, really good and durable. One of my S2+ is always in my jean’s pocket.
Yup, very durable, except for the problematic biscotti driver, one of my S2+ is stuck in 100% mode . The 3/5 mode version has no problem at all.
My S2+’s “magnetic tailcap” is actually a regular tailcap with magnetic ring outside attached around the tail switch. How’s Sofirn SC31B’s magnetic tailcap construction, is it inside, beneath the tail spring? A coin-type magnet?
I kinda laugh at myself when reading this , I thought Jackie was a he .
:person_facepalming: .
I haven’t been on this forum long enough to know who is who :person_facepalming:
Yeah, names can be difficult sometimes. :-D I once also thought Jackie is a male name only. But here‘s a good example of a popular female person with that name...
Yep, I should know - I have a SP32 :FACEPALM: - think it's the original version, pics from June 2017. I gave up on the SP32 since it had a switch mount on a vertical board, making it very difficult to mod with a FET+1 driver. Here's some pics from them, probably posted elsewhere long ago, also showing the sharpness of the lanyard hole trim:
The tailcap does look unchanged, didn't try to LEGO yet.
Always thought it odd Sofirn was selling a SP32A V2 host here, and sold 9 of them, when the driver replacement is so difficult. Only other explanation is for replacing an original host. It has 1 5 star review as well, but in Russian.
When the SC31(B) came out, sure looked like a standard side switch PCB light:
Sure. Driver is glued down, plus it has a vertical board centered for mounting of the USB connector. From what I recall and what I typically do is desolder the LED wires from the MCPCB, then use a solder pick tool to push thru the wire hole, applying pressure. If pressure alone doesn't work, I'll give it a few taps of the hammer - lightly at first, trying the minimum amt of force that it takes to break the glue seal. For this SC31B, the vertical board broke off from the hammering (most likely). You can see the white glue (or silicon) on the bottom and a little on the top.
I've removed many glued drivers using this method. With the solder pick, usually you can salvage the stock driver with minimum damage, sometimes a surface mount gets damaged bad - usually you can "feel" if the solder pick is on an IC or not.
I suspect the Pro driver is glued down as well. The brass ring around the driver on the spring side doesn't look threaded down to me - I've seen these thin brass rings used before to protect the driver from wear and tear and to make good contact with the tube. I've even desoldered those rings and re-used them on a driver replacement. For my modded SC31B, I did not glue the BLF driver - the tube threads down to hold it in place. This works for me -- don't like glue.
These are the glued driver removal tools, EDC18 driver shown:
Thank you for the detailed response Tom E!
I was thinking about doing something like that. But I definitely expected some damage would happen. But this is good information.
My SP40 short tube’s threads fit like clockwork. But as mentioned, the springs on both ends are compressed about as “tight” as any light I’ve cranked down. If you were going to keep it an 18350 shorty it’s whole life I think it would work fine though. But the springs might get pretty flat after a while