Have not been to OCAU in years was a regular many eons ago
I just got my KR1 with W1 in and I'm wondering how they would compare. Can this new GT micro with the W1 really be so much better? I'm not sure if I should trust both noctigon's and lumintop's numbers or just one of them lol. The GT micro is also rated at 700lm where the KR1 is rated 900lm... so the GT mini is supposed to throw better, with less light, but a reflector the same size as the KR1? Or is it bigger?
The KR1’s OTF lumen cannot be 900 lumens. That is likely the LED lumens. Both lights should make about the same lumen output but GT micro has a slightly larger diamwter head so should throw a bit farther.
It’s been almost a couple years now for the GT MICRO, Is there any plans for a possible GT MICRO PRO? I love my MICRO but it would be amazing to have this in the PRO lineup as well. Any thoughts 
What changes would you expect for the PRO version (regarding emitter and driver as well)?
W1 come in different bins, not all bins are identical, not all lumens are identical just because something uses W1, so you do not know if the lumens are 900lm OTF or 750lm OTF.
Slightly larger head does not automatically mean better throw with W1 which requires the reflector be be deliberately made for it.
So it is 36mm vs 35mm head, how is 1mm in diameter going to make the 48% percentage difference from 110Kcd on the KR1 to the 163KCd on the GT Micro. So then if would be with 4mm larger head then it would throw 200% better?
Going past 5A does not bring anyting but lower output. For example at 6A the output is the same as at 3.3A, so more current is exactly less in the case of this LED.
14500 cannot even compare to a high current 18650 in maintaining voltage under load, you are not going to have the same throw after not much runtime on the 14500.
Now actual candela throw numbers and actual current of the LED tell how it throws and at what current, rest will be pretty much speculation.
I would like to see the OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG with the same Texas Avenger FET driver. I am not a builder so whatever the pros think but the OSRAM would give it a concordable increase in throw and output, it is a micro thrower.
Hi
Does anyone have measured Kcd numbers for gt micro osram w1.1?? how about amp draw? My micro osram outthrows my D1s!
thanks for any info.
I just received the Lumintop GT Micro Osram with the Vapecell H10 and am having switch issues as well. I emailed the vendor and waiting on a reply for the return. My light will come on by itself and changing modes the LED will blink sometimes and then change modes, other times it will go from high to low by itself. Other anomalies happen as well, it really is so inconsistent its impossible to write down everything that happens. My original GT micro has been rock solid.
The GT Micro has a 90 deg board mount switch, so one of the things that can go wrong is the switch tilts back, pulling off the PCB. It's happened to me with other lights, similar switches. This one looks pretty well secured but hard to tell, and hard to tell of the quality of the switch. The GT Micro is not cheap for it's size, so I would expect higher quality.
If it feels like the switch boot has to be pressed harder to make contact, then this may be the problem. I've seen it still function, just harder to press - taken apart, and the switch was tilted back.
GT Micro driver below:
Hello, this is my first post (but I am long time reader of the forum :D) so welcome everybody. I recently bought Micro GT (with osram led) and I tried to use it with purple efest 14500 imr 6.5A unprotected cell, flat top. When I screw down tail cap it gives 2 blinks (so connection is good?) but after that it is non responding to any clicks - I tried 1x short, 4x short (to unlock), 1x long, 1x extra long 16s, several short ones… Nothing happens any ideas what’s wrong? Maybe I need to use different cell?
Edit : after many tries it finally turned on but then again I needed to press several times and it turned off, looks like button switch is not making contact when I press for most times. Is that hardware problem and I should return it / send for warranty or is there a way to easily fix that?
GT Micro has a very slightly raised button at driver end. Maybe you’re not getting good contact?
Edit: Where did you buy it from?
Get a decent size cable, remove tail cap, touch 1 end to neg of battery and other end to end of tube. Tap on edge of tube see if anything happens
It was second hand buy (but new) so I don’t know the store, I did a try what you described and same thing happens - when I close cirtuit there are 2 blinks (so circuit is closed) but still button doesn’t work, looks like a faulty button switch…
Does the button light work?
In most cases pressing button does nothing, only after several tries it sometimes works (turn on) and then it takes another several tries to turn off or sometimes it doesn’t and I need to unscrew tail cap
I’ve just received a new GT Micro from BG, GT Micro NM1
Already had the XP-L and NM1 in copper so stupid impulse buy. Anywho, got it today and tried it out. Anduril2 and fixed tail cap is surprising. Takes a Vapcell L10 10A BT battery no probs. Version flashes 202009270322 so GT Mini hex.
Would be interested to hear if anyone else has purchased one recently and if the tail cap is fixed/glued.
Ewww, that would suck.
I had a Li cell take a dump in it, and needed to get to the nekkid tube to bore through it with a wire-brush (after soaking it out as much as possible). Had to diddle with the spring to shine it up, etc., so had it been glued in place, yeah, forget it, wouldda been a write-off.
Yes, much prefer a 1/4 turn off the tail to cut the cicuit, maybe try the Nano tube and run it off a 10180 . There’s a decent spring down there so I recon they glued it. Might take a heat gun to it - don’t want to melt the oring though.
The modular illustration in both OP and the BG page shows the tail cap separated as normal (?). Strange. I had one ordered as it was a great deal with Fin’s coupon (was considering it as a backup to my current micro nm1), but got refunded due to none in stock. Maybe just as well, couldn’t deal with a fixed tail cap. All my e-switch lights get the “twist” when offline, and I don’t like doing it from the head end unless necessary (ie; FWAA).
Hello all, moderate history as a reader/learner, but forced into a 1st post today with a dilemma.
I lent my GT Micro to a family member today and they somehow lost/tore-out the rubber switch cover/activator/see-thru bit. So now my beloved Micro is in need of help.
I bought it directly from NealsGadgets in the 1st batch or so, in March of 2019.
My google fu failed to find a source of replacements.
Anyone have suggestions/help?
Thanks,
Jeff