Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril1/2 + RGB Aux

Will be available thoese kind of drivers for Lumintop EDC 18?

Just put the Lume1 in my FW1A XPL Hi (just driver, no aux board of course), and looking forward to seeing how the efficiency is. The emitter seems to be withstanding turbo even with 30Q. Don’t know if should be expected?

This is a practice run for using the driver for a W1 with a SMO reflector in the FW1A someone soon.

XP-L HI has a high forward voltage so even on direct drive (FET) it will withstand any battery basically (at 6A it’s 4.02V)

W1 is low fwd voltage and will surely be over driven/die on direct drive (at 6A only 3.5V)

If you value efficiency at all you will want to stick a large capacity battery in and disable FET for 3A max.

You’d be hard pressed to pop an xpl with a single cell, direct drive in a light. Vf at failure is usually >>4.1V

The W1 is easily overwhelmed though. Even an old low drain cell partially discharged can push it to the limit.

I’m not sure there’s a surefire way to get the w1 driven properly at ~5amps with the Lume1. Firmware might keep it from burning up but you probably won’t get maximum throw performance from it on turbo.

Honestly though, I’d recommend one of two things: switch to a W2 emitter or be happy with the 3A max of the regulated levels. The visual difference in throw between 3A and 4.5A in the W1 really, truly, isn’t worth the heat, especially in an FW1A. In fact, you might not be able to perceive it in the beam, which will get very indigo when pushed too far…

Just my 2c

-Cross post!

contractor - thanks for clarifying. And yes, the 30Q was the first thing I grabbed from my desk. Am now charging a Sanyo NCR18650GA to start proper use of the light.

Could you direct me towards info about disabling the FET please?

JaredM - I was contemplating the workaround to avoid frying the W1 and was going to settle on just avoiding Turbo use. But perhaps can disable the FET as mentioned. Would the W2 not also be vulnerable to being fried with FET (although less so than W1)?

Although I will get a lot enjoyment from the 3 Lume1’s that I have bought, I do wonder if the next step could be a 5A constant current driver for the FWxx. Perhaps there’s a reason loneoceans settled at 3A cc.

That would be a custom build from the source posted by ToyKeeper a few posts before this one.

However, maybe disabling the FET could be a good use of one of these unused external jumpers?

Heat management, space limitations, and cost are likely the answer… the first being most important imo. There’s little point to create a driver that can sustain 5A in a light that can only sustain 2-3. I don’t think white flats in an FW1A was considered a popular configuration either. Of course loneoceans can fill in the blanks there…

Two ways of disabling the FET are via firmware or physical desoldering. On this driver, is only recommended the first option.

The W2.2 is available from Simon/convoy/AE and likely can take turbo from a high capacity cell and thin/longer emitter wires. It is just as sensitive, but the higher current allows the resistance in the light/connections to burn off more voltage… with an older high capacity cell used for a minute at 3A prior, I bet it’s just about right.

Great idea

Thanks for the input guys- appreciated. Interesting to hear the trick of using thinner wires - won’t be using the 20AWG that I used on the XPL then!

Now, back to Zoom meetings nirvana at work and I’ll ponder on details for my new FW1A build.

JaredM, the W2.2 you refer to, is this the 4040 larger package version of the W2 with that fancy high power name?
Just trying to make sure there isnt something else im not aware of :stuck_out_tongue:

If there is interest, I could add a no-FET build and possibly a version which uses the FET for more than one level. But first I should probably confirm that the base config works.

A no FET build would be amazing! Will save me 4 days trying to work out how to do it myself.
Great for my custom E21a builds. Ive seen tiny smoke before when ive grabbed the wrong light :person_facepalming:
A Buck/Boost E21a with a 18500 tube is the dream!

Yeah, still 219B freaks here would go with reduced FET anytime

Hopefully there isnt actually a technical limitation to PWM FET as discussed before.
Ive got even more 219b FW3As than e21a, though often im using the 18500 2000mah cells which do a good job already without the PWM.

My kingdom for a 5A Buck/Boost driver with no FET :money_mouth_face:

Yes. Unfortunately due to the nature of the slightly complicated naming convention that osram uses, a few shorthand ways of referring to these emitters have come about. W2.2 = 2mm² 4040 aka Boost HX aka HX aka CULPM1… I’m sure there are more.

Good, im not missing out :sunglasses: . Mine are stuck in slow covid chinese mail though :frowning:

Yes it difficult to remember the codes. Owebon made an excellent graphic guide. :+1:

.TG = White (6000K-65000K)
.23 = Red (612-630nm)
.14 = Blue (450-480nm)
.13 = True Green (513-545nm)
.F1 = Pure Green (554-566nm)
.FY = Yellow/Amber (580-595)

S = 3030
U = 4040

N = 1mm²
P = 2mm²

CSLNM1.TG - 3030 –1mm² -WF1
CSLPM1.TG - 3030 - 2mm² -WF2
CULNM1.TG - 4040 - 1mm² - Boost HL
CULPM1.TG - 4040 - 2mm² - Boost HX

That would be useful for me too.

Thanks for linking this. Couldn’t find it earlier.

If you determine more than one level for the FET is workable, then awesome. However, if you try it out and observe unexpected behavior, be aware of the following, taken from the datasheet (page 13):