Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril1/2 + RGB Aux

Yes. Unfortunately due to the nature of the slightly complicated naming convention that osram uses, a few shorthand ways of referring to these emitters have come about. W2.2 = 2mm² 4040 aka Boost HX aka HX aka CULPM1… I’m sure there are more.

Good, im not missing out :sunglasses: . Mine are stuck in slow covid chinese mail though :frowning:

Yes it difficult to remember the codes. Owebon made an excellent graphic guide. :+1:

.TG = White (6000K-65000K)
.23 = Red (612-630nm)
.14 = Blue (450-480nm)
.13 = True Green (513-545nm)
.F1 = Pure Green (554-566nm)
.FY = Yellow/Amber (580-595)

S = 3030
U = 4040

N = 1mm²
P = 2mm²

CSLNM1.TG - 3030 –1mm² -WF1
CSLPM1.TG - 3030 - 2mm² -WF2
CULNM1.TG - 4040 - 1mm² - Boost HL
CULPM1.TG - 4040 - 2mm² - Boost HX

That would be useful for me too.

Thanks for linking this. Couldn’t find it earlier.

If you determine more than one level for the FET is workable, then awesome. However, if you try it out and observe unexpected behavior, be aware of the following, taken from the datasheet (page 13):

A no FET and a patial - PWM FET, if technically possible, would be great for people that use 219b. Unless full FET is deemed safe for a 219b setup with this driver.

Agreed, prtial and off would be great.

But as someone suggested above, 5A no FET would be a dream driver.

[quote=pol77]

A no FET and a patial - PWM FET, if technically possible, would be great for people that use 219b. Unless full FET is deemed safe for a 219b setup with this driver.
[/quote]

Actually, if you noticed, I've been running my original Lume1 build in a FW3C, with the 219B 'rosy' LEDs since the beginning of this project, and I haven't had any issues with Turbo mode at all (direct FET drive). However, I did make sure to reflow the LEDs as well as possible, and I made sure heat-sinking between the MCPCB and copper shelf was good by removing any burrs I found on the shelf, and replacing the thermal paste with a good quality one.

In fact, I usually do out-of-flashlight tests with a single Cree XML LED on a large heatsink - I found that Turbo on that single LED actually leads to phosphor damage. I can't guarantee that your 219B setup will work with direct drive, but it certainly hasn't caused any issues for me in my FW3C. I use a Samsung 30Q (pink) battery for this flashlight.

Huge thanks to ToyKeeper for rolling in the Lume1 modifications to Anduril2! I'll get started testing it out, and I'll be happy to provide config files for disabling the FET - this is indeed the easiest thing to do if you want to remove the Turbo feature.

For PWMing the FET, the Lume1 driver uses a tiny charge pump to drive the FET gate, resulting in a high performance Turbo drive. However, this causes a limitation in FET PWM which while not affecting things like 'party strobe' or 'tactical strobing', will limit the ability to PWM at high frequencies. As a result I do not recommend having PWMing on the FET, even though it is possible (with reduced PWM frequency) - this will require some config lines the config files to change the TCPWM for the FET line.

Finally, you all are also right that there is currently no software support for the four aux solder pads. I think it's worth playing around with the firmware to see if I can enable those solder pads to enable easy changing of features - at least disabling / enabling direct drive.

I always reflow the LEDs very well, making sure they have a perfect contact and no excess solder underneath. I use high quality PC CPU thermal paste. I have not used my FW3x lights on Turbo a lot, but the original FW3A used to be an XP-L and I have 219b emitters on it for ages, with the firmware it came with - no issues.

It seems like good reflowing and good thermal paste do make a difference.

I am now wondering if it is worth it losing the FET altogether, since PWM on the FET is not good. I will probably keep the lights running full FET :slight_smile:

Now hearing this i'm thinking the same, going full throttle.

As for heatsinking, i have soldered MCPCB directly to a copper shelf on 2 FW3C and 1 FW3B. I think it has a good heat transfer :)

219B

What’s your preference contactc? Sliced dogfarts?

High CRI is my only preference. I have 219B lights, hell I modded a 219B Emisar D18 but you’d think they were like ancient artifacts that need white gloves to handle. If someone kills one with one of these drivers you probably learned a good $9 lesson in modding and can simply buy more and learn from whatever mistake was made.

I can’t help but see it as a distraction. The first thing people want from our hardware and software gurus is a way to bastardize an excellent driver before it has even been tested for what it is.

I’ll end my rant with that though. I know people are very attached to their LEDs and don’t want to risk ruining them it just doesn’t resonate with me. I’ve ruined so many things modding that this seems like a non issue, it comes with the territory.

I haven’t done it yet… that’s a few steps ahead. Here’s how the plan looks at the moment:

  1. LoneOceans created a nice new driver.
  2. LoneOceans got Anduril working on the new driver, using an old branch of the Noctigon K1 code.
  3. I isolated the changes and adapted them to a current version of the FSM branch. (was necessary because the ADC and thermal code have been completely rewritten since the K1 came out)
  4. Test on real hardware to make sure adapted code works. <— we’re here now
  5. Merge changes into upstream FSM branch.
  6. Merge changes into Anduril2 branch.
  7. Test again on real hardware. (optional; changes should be pretty straightforward and low-risk)
  8. Finish Anduril2 (mostly just needs more documentation).
  9. Merge Anduril2 into upstream FSM branch.
  10. Publish builds for enthusiasts to try, and get more widespread testing.
  11. Merge into trunk.
  12. Send builds to manufacturers.

This would probably all be done already, but I’ve had very limited time to work on things lately.

Thanks for the clarification, will work on the updated branch :)

@loneoceans

I do have one question that is a bit off topic. Based on your other pure boost drivers if we had triple MCPCB’s which were configured in series could a 9V boost driver have been an easier design with less tradeoffs or does that have negatives of its own?

Actually that would be my preferred design if I were to build an entire flashlight from scratch, but it would be impractical for me to do so if I was going to build one for the community because there's a huge demand for 'turbo direct-drive mode' (which is not quite my preference, though not possible with a boost design), and because MCPCBs are typically not in series. Having series-LEDs would in fact, allow some interesting opportunities, such as using different kinds of LEDs on a single MCPCB with equal current through all of them.

I'd love to have something like a 3 or 4 LED (with mixed tints) with a 15-20W driver, or even better, a double channel boost flashlight with say 5+4 Nicha E21s or even just 2+2 2700K and 5000K LEDs with tint mixing. This could be made small and compact, and Anduril already has support for this.

I dropped a few messages to flashlight manufacturers at the beginning of the year including the examples above, but alas nobody seems to be interested, or had their own projects already, and most of them wanted 'headline' features like maximum turbo brightness. For example, having '4300 lumens maximum' sounds a lot better than '2000 lumens maximum', even if the 4300 lumens lasts for just a few seconds... as opposed to high efficiency.

Maybe tagging up with Clemence and Skilhunt would be interesting.

Edit:

The market is flooded with triples and quads and FETs and all the lumens and pocket smoldering, skin scorching half baked lights one can imagine. SBT90s in featherweight “EDCs”, 10lb behemoths that don’t fit in a backpack, 87 pieces of XHP70s running off of a single 21700. I don’t desire any of them.

My custom FW1A (soon with a Lume1 once Anduril2 and some spare cash comes around) is currently my most valued light. It probably doesn’t even make 800 lumens on turbo with it’s sliced SST20.

I still desire slimmer hosts (~22mm for 18650, 25 for 21700), variable CCT, dual beam pattern, efficient buck and/or boost drivers, and for the love of all things good… a proper POCKET CLIP! OH and uhhhh if Luminus is listening by chance — SST40 95CRI. Thanks!

I suspected as much, too bad. There are PCBs that have jumpers to allow for either configuration but expecting people to get specialized pcb in addition to driver is a bit more involved than just dropping in a new driver like the FW series.