I have an integrating sphere made with pvc tubes and a luxmeter
None of my lights reach the Claimed lumens and throw, but I measure the FW21 at 10600lm. It’s the only light I’ve tested that measures over the claimed lumens, that must be something
Guys, I did my best at measuring its output but my equipment is rather simple compared to some integrated spheres, but by far it was measuring accurately. My Wizard Nichia output was accurate, compared SKV89, the same thing with FW3A. But maybe it cant handle that high brightness well… I will try again, but I’m not gonna argue - you may be right, I may be wrong
Lacking detailed knowledge of your apparatus and lumen measurement theory I cannot much criticize your respective measurements. My root confusion is that >150% overdrive appears to be required to hit the manufacturer’s claimed 10k lumens - something that’s likely possible for brief periods but seems like it would strain the chain of components in the light.
I do suppose that perceived brightness is likely a step up over the FW3A’s nominal peak turbo output of 2800 lumens being more than double at the lower end of ~7000 lumens. The case vs the D4/D4S isn’t as clear with its purported peak output of 4300 lumens and thus not even double. In both cases, a casual assessment of that turbo output suggests that no overdrive is necessary . Of course, with markedly different LED characteristics and optics, the difference muddies appreciably and the main difference may well be floody reflector vs TIR.
My FW21 Pro showed up today and it is nice. My only gripe is the finish. It is very slippery with no texture for gripping. It is a very SMALL flashlight lol. When I put it in the palm of my hand and make a fist it disappears. The fit and finish is great, the switch is a little to soft for my liking but over all a very nice torch. It gets hot fast in turbo! lol. I am able to hold it threw its cycle but just barely and it stays hot for a while. The top of the ramp is just about perfect for a torch this size. It throws a wall of light out extremely well. The strobe mode it intense lol and should have a rating of 10 on the Richter scale, Extraordinary! Something about the three emitter strobe patterns, awesome! This is definitely a torch I will not be double tapping in turbo mode unless I need a small nuclear melt down or to fry some bacon. Very happy with my purchase and the price point.
It could use some grip texture or somethin, i like how olight has those black rubber pads on the seeker 2 pro… almost impossible to slip with that light in hand. but i feel fw21pro is ok to hold thanks to its weigth with the battery, but can understand some wanted maybe a little better texture orso…
Hi, I didn’t say I had changed the maximum ramp level to 133 to get something close to the 2,000 lumens held, I feel the misunderstanding.
My FW21 Pro gives about 1350 lumens with a 40T at the original ramp maximum and about 850 with a 50E.
The 2.8A stabilized mode, as you announced, is at level 130.
On turbo the maximum lumens I get at the start with a 40T to 4.18v is 9,200.
In the maximum stabilized 8x 7135 mode that is applied at level 130 the flashlight consumes 2.8A.
In turbo I measured the intensity with an amperimetric clamp and 10awg cable and part rigid filament because of the difficulty of the double tube of the FW21 Pro and got 23A, although I think they were limited by the measuring circuit that I used and that with the flashlight mounted consumption is in the range of 28A
Regarding the D4 the FW21Pro is able to maintain many more lumens, without a doubt, in fact only with the cooling that provides keeping it in hand is able to keep indefinitely the 2.8A mode that in mine represents about 1250 lumens
There you have the graph at 2.8A, the lumens are 1250.
The ambient temperature is 30 degrees, so I have brought it a small usb fan that has an effect similar to carrying the flashlight in your hand.
The flashlight is set to 75 degrees maximum temperature limit, but even so from 60 degrees it begins to regulate and hardly goes above 65, usually floating between 60 and 65 degrees.
If anyone is interested, I can record a thermal image with a flir of that runtime and upload it in 10x accelerated time lapse
This flashlight was designed for a high amp cell like the 30T so why use a 50E at 10amps? Are you just going for max run times, it is a hot rod flashlight and not meant for a bike. Just confused on your cell choice for testing its 10,000 lumen rating. That’s what we were talking about I believe.
You’re right. I have three 40Ts to use with it, but to test runtime and if I decide to use it on the mountain bike to the maximum that I have set, about 3,000 lumens, 140, I also use the 50E.
Think that on the bike and at night the flashlight cools much more than we can think and is capable of many lumens without overheating
Hmm so you also got 7000lm? Which battery have you used?
But apart thah, you got a weird looking graph… why is it jumping from 100 to 20% three times in just 1 minute?
Hi, I activated the turbo voluntarily every time the intensity fell below 1,000 lumens until I reached a temperature above 60 degrees before restarting turbo, the third time it was already exceeding 60 degrees long, so I didn’t give it a fourth. Lumens are at 7,000 because the battery had already used it a little and comes down fast. This flashlight I have seen that to give maximum lumens is very sensitive to: 1. battery voltage, 2. cleaning contacts and 3. compressing the springs. In fact right now testing with the flashlight: 1. as is and screwing the head without squeezing hard I measured 7,500 lm, 2. cleaning the tube/head contacts and squeezing strong 8,500 lm and 3. inserting a 12x2 magnet into the negative 9,500 lm. I encourage you to take the test, it’s very fast and you can comment if you exceed 9,000 lumens. The lumens I have obtained with a white pvc tube with two angles of 90 degrees and the ceilingbounce app. These are of course only approximate, but the mode-regulated flashlights that I have used to check show readings very close to those published by the manufacturer. In my lumen readings an error of 10% can be expected. Here the graph and Flir images https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu_7LV0tk-c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu_7LV0tk-c !
Are many trouble shooting options available for this light, i have been at ti for a few hours to no avail.
Sometime i twist the head on and it ramps up, suggesting an issue with the issolation between the switch signal tube.
sometimes no light at all, but with the initial flash as you screw the tube on.
Sometimes nothing at all.
Hi, try to clean all metal contacts, both those on the tailcap (metal ring) and springs.
Then, pressing the clip towards the reflector (to make its o-ring sits flat on the thread), screw the tailcap as tight as possible. Then tighten it even more. Check if the clip’s o-ring sits perfectly flat. If not, press it again and tighten even more.
Then rest. Listen to music if you like.
After all of that, check if it works properly.
Sorry for the belated reply mate, its been a nightmare down here.
Thanks for the suggestions, the problem seems to be intermittent to the point of writing off the light, i brought it through Neals Gadgets so im not even gonna attempt to contact him.
I will keep the battery out of it and only use to show people the wow factor, but beyond that i feel it to dangerous to put into rotation.
Now that’s impressive! I was thinking at best around 7500LM to 8000LM. Did you use the 30T cell?
