I’d guess using 4040 LED’s might not be worth it on a smaller build since you may not be able to max them out anyways. I ran this one w/ FET enabled using a VTC6, yolo.
3x Osram Red Flat (CSLNM1.23) MTN triple 3030 board
lume1 buckboost driver
lume1 RGB aux board
Wow, niiiiice! I got to have one of these! Maybe I should ask Hank to offer his Emisar D4v2 using a triple board with KR CSLNM1.23 or KW CSLNM1.TG using 10507 or a quad board using 10621 along with his 7.5A constant current driver (w/o direct drive). That would be a perfect add on to his custom builds using SST20-DR.
They do some but if you use less solder the friction will keep it in place well enough to manually center. Im sure it’s not perfect but definitely close enough for a TIR.
I used a toothpick and rolled the tip of it on the side of the emitter to push/center it. Hands are too shaky to use tweezers from above
I don’t think there will be much difference in multi-emitter lights. They don’t tend to drive the LEDs to the max anyway, so amps per LED are not near the limit.
Unless the light is large.
With single LED lights you can drive the LED much harder which was a problem with 3030. It may still be a problem with 4040 but the limit should be higher.
With single LED lights you can drive the LED much harder which was a problem with 3030. …
Problem is, some (cough! many) of you still use unregulated drivers, which is just (sort of) wrong(no matter what).
In other matters, in a sort of related way and conversely, people like me believe in being impervious to Covid-19. Did it nearly from the start. Awaken to your spirit (or better, to the reality of the soul). Learn to believe. The sooner you do the same, the sooner this sort of Zelda Majora's Mask tale will end.
All the best,
The Light.
—
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Just like you Barkuti I’m not a fan of direct drive. But with limited choice on the market that’s what I tend to choose.
Times are changing, availability of regulated drivers increases. Still not with Andruil….but these will come as well.
With single LED lights you can drive the LED much harder which was a problem with 3030. …
Problem is, some (cough! many) of you still use unregulated drivers, which is just (sort of) wrong(no matter what).
In other matters, in a sort of related way and conversely, people like me believe in being impervious to Covid-19. Did it nearly from the start. Awaken to your spirit (or better, to the reality of the soul). Learn to believe. The sooner you do the same, the sooner this sort of Zelda Majora’s Mask tale will end.
All the best,
The Light.
I swear into this diy FET DD driver as the best for certain setup(1×18650, 1x emitter setup) maybe not perfect for this new Osram emitters (but it could be reworked if we restrict current over the fet to around 4.5A) but for old XPG2 in mentioned setup is really, really the best, unbeatable…
The problem I have is that AK-47 C1 driver (firmware with high,med,low no memory effect) disappeared from the market… So for me that means “GAMEOVER”.
I would take 17mm regulated drivers (4.5A on high) but I need high, med, low mode without memory effect so it always starts on high… I don’t want to mess with re-flashing and reprogramming or any kind of fiddling(short press, long press, 5 flashes etc.) to get into that…
So we all have wishes and preferences… My vote, but only for mine mentioned type of setup goes to above mentioned type of FET DD driver.
… I would take 17mm regulated drivers (4.5A on high) but I need high, med, low mode without memory effect so it always starts on high... I don't want to mess with re-flashing and reprogramming or any kind of fiddling(short press, long press, 5 flashes etc.) to get into that... So we all have wishes and preferences... My vote, but only for mine mentioned type of setup goes to above mentioned type of FET DD driver.
Mmm, the standard 4 modes ∅17mm 5A driver is close, but I guess close is not enough, namely because of the low to high mode order. It's maximum driving current, being slightly below 5A, is spot on for the fashionable CSLNM1.TG, though.
I understand the preferences thing, I know how the mind works and when one believes something could happen, it's only a matter of time for it to happen. Thus, to completely preclude driver misconfiguration wise or pragmatic man sticks to unmessable driver.
—
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Does the lower VF bins for Osram KW LEDs mean longer runtime on battery ?
This statement is too vague to answer as is. A buck or boost driver may benefit from low vF while a linear driver may have no impact or slightly worse and a FET driver may be worse still (as far as runtime).
“Efficiency” is in the datasheet for each brightness bin but it all depends on how you power it.
This statement is too vague to answer as is. A buck or boost driver *_may_* benefit from low vF while a linear driver may have no impact or slightly worse and a FET driver may be worse still (as far as runtime). "Efficiency" is in the datasheet for each brightness bin but it all depends on how you power it.
I see, so this cant be stated until you know your flashlight setup, specially with driving these LEDs way above the default current.
This statement is too vague to answer as is. A buck or boost driver may benefit from low vF while a linear driver may have no impact or slightly worse and a FET driver may be worse still (as far as runtime). “Efficiency” is in the datasheet for each brightness bin but it all depends on how you power it.
I see, so this cant be stated until you know your flashlight setup, specially with driving these LEDs way above the default current.
Right, usually you will pick two and figure out how to make the 3rd work with your first two choices: LED, Host, Driver
Does the lower VF bins for Osram KW LEDs mean longer runtime on battery ?
First of all, if you need to measure runtime you must provide a clearer definition of runtime. I understand it basically can be defined as “the amount of time the flashlight remains powered from switch on until condition”, thus you need to define condition for runtime measurement (battery voltage, amount of flashlight output, etc.).
With the above in mind…
Using a boost-buck or a boost driver it is easy: slight increase in runtime. Switching drivers usually have well defined cell voltage windows and a boost-buck or boost driver would be able to run the emitter at the condition specified power/current from full battery until cut-off. With a buck driver, at some point battery voltage would get close enough to the emitter Vf as to force a reduction in driving current / emitter power. With a lower Vf emitter the regulated window is larger (coupled with a little bit higher efficiency), so runtime at selected current or emitter power is larger. However, high Vf emitters (slightly less efficiency) also cause the driver to stop switching operation and reduce current and power sooner, this means the runtime would be larger in this particular case for a high Vf emitter (if condition allowed); and thus, comparatively speaking the low Vf emitter would have less runtime (with these conditions) because of a higher runtime window at full power.
With linear drivers (regulation using MOSFETs as variable resistors) a low emitter Vf reduces runtime, this is because the window at which current remains constant (battery voltage > emitter Vf + other component voltage drops) enlarges (causing higher average battery drain), so the amount of regulated time is larger but total runtime gets reduced. Regulated time is a fraction of total runtime, by the way.
With unregulated MOSFET drivers the answer is @#$% easy: less runtime. This is because the larger the difference between battery voltage to emitter Vf, the more the driving current (and emitter power, lemons, etc.).
Note: had to edit this more than once. If you find something worth being corrected, say so. Thanks!
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Mmm, the standard 4 modes ∅17mm 5A driver is close, but I guess close is not enough, namely because of the low to high mode order. It’s maximum driving current, being slightly below 5A, is spot on for the fashionable CSLNM1.TG, though.
I understand the preferences thing, I know how the mind works and when one believes something could happen, it’s only a matter of time for it to happen. Thus, to completely preclude driver misconfiguration wise or pragmatic man sticks to unmessable driver.
Yes something like that but with H,M,L no memory and no thermal regulation. Who wants thermal regulation anyway? That ain’t for serious modders
-Well, the CULPM1.TG perform worse than the CSLPM1.TG- CSLPM1.TG - 6.3A - 1200 lumens at 30 sec CULPM1.TG (from Convoy) - 5.7A - 1160 lumens - 7A - 1135 - 8A - 1135 same reading for both 7 & 8 EDIT: actually, I've since recalibrated my lumen tube as it was about 100 lumens higher. Taking that into account approx 1100 for the CSLPM1.TG It's still barely an improvement
what host and reflector size did you test this on ?
I just realized the CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG are different in size, …
Must be an optical illusion. The distance of the emitters to the camera lens in that photograph is also unequal, which also affects assessment.
—
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Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
The link in your post is broken, Funtastic, missing “l” at the end. I fixed it in my above quote of yours.
That driver features a sense resistor onboard, these are used for regulation. I'd expect it to be constant current.
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
So like this?
I’d guess using 4040 LED’s might not be worth it on a smaller build since you may not be able to max them out anyways. I ran this one w/ FET enabled using a VTC6, yolo.
3x Osram Red Flat (CSLNM1.23)
MTN triple 3030 board
lume1 buckboost driver
lume1 RGB aux board
Wow, niiiiice!
I got to have one of these! 
Maybe I should ask Hank to offer his Emisar D4v2 using a triple board with KR CSLNM1.23 or KW CSLNM1.TG using 10507 or a quad board using 10621 along with his 7.5A constant current driver (w/o direct drive). That would be a perfect add on to his custom builds using SST20-DR.
Anyway, thanks a lot for sharing!
I’m surprised they didn’t float around during the flow..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
They do some but if you use less solder the friction will keep it in place well enough to manually center. Im sure it’s not perfect but definitely close enough for a TIR.
I used a toothpick and rolled the tip of it on the side of the emitter to push/center it. Hands are too shaky to use tweezers from above
Those are the emitters from the Yinding store?
Yes
I don’t think there will be much difference in multi-emitter lights. They don’t tend to drive the LEDs to the max anyway, so amps per LED are not near the limit.
Unless the light is large.
With single LED lights you can drive the LED much harder which was a problem with 3030. It may still be a problem with 4040 but the limit should be higher.
Problem is, some (cough! many) of you still use unregulated drivers, which is just (sort of) wrong (no matter what).
In other matters, in a sort of related way and conversely, people like me believe in being impervious to Covid-19. Did it nearly from the start. Awaken to your spirit (or better, to the reality of the soul). Learn to believe. The sooner you do the same, the sooner this sort of Zelda Majora's Mask tale will end.
All the best,
The Light.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Just like you Barkuti I’m not a fan of direct drive. But with limited choice on the market that’s what I tend to choose.
Times are changing, availability of regulated drivers increases. Still not with Andruil….but these will come as well.
I swear into this diy FET DD driver as the best for certain setup(1×18650, 1x emitter setup) maybe not perfect for this new Osram emitters (but it could be reworked if we restrict current over the fet to around 4.5A) but for old XPG2 in mentioned setup is really, really the best, unbeatable…
The problem I have is that AK-47 C1 driver (firmware with high,med,low no memory effect) disappeared from the market… So for me that means “GAME OVER”.
I would take 17mm regulated drivers (4.5A on high) but I need high, med, low mode without memory effect so it always starts on high… I don’t want to mess with re-flashing and reprogramming or any kind of fiddling(short press, long press, 5 flashes etc.) to get into that…
So we all have wishes and preferences… My vote, but only for mine mentioned type of setup goes to above mentioned type of FET DD driver.
Mmm, the standard 4 modes ∅17mm 5A driver is close, but I guess close is not enough, namely because of the low to high mode order. It's maximum driving current, being slightly below 5A, is spot on for the fashionable CSLNM1.TG, though.
I understand the preferences thing, I know how the mind works and when one believes something could happen, it's only a matter of time for it to happen. Thus, to completely preclude driver misconfiguration wise or pragmatic man sticks to unmessable driver.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Does the lower VF bins for Osram KW LEDs mean longer runtime on battery ?
This statement is too vague to answer as is. A buck or boost driver may benefit from low vF while a linear driver may have no impact or slightly worse and a FET driver may be worse still (as far as runtime).
“Efficiency” is in the datasheet for each brightness bin but it all depends on how you power it.
I see, so this cant be stated until you know your flashlight setup, specially with driving these LEDs way above the default current.
Right, usually you will pick two and figure out how to make the 3rd work with your first two choices: LED, Host, Driver
We only have so many resources after all.
First of all, if you need to measure runtime you must provide a clearer definition of runtime. I understand it basically can be defined as “the amount of time the flashlight remains powered from switch on until condition”, thus you need to define condition for runtime measurement (battery voltage, amount of flashlight output, etc.).
With the above in mind…
Using a boost-buck or a boost driver it is easy: slight increase in runtime. Switching drivers usually have well defined cell voltage windows and a boost-buck or boost driver would be able to run the emitter at the condition specified power/current from full battery until cut-off. With a buck driver, at some point battery voltage would get close enough to the emitter Vf as to force a reduction in driving current / emitter power. With a lower Vf emitter the regulated window is larger (coupled with a little bit higher efficiency), so runtime at selected current or emitter power is larger. However, high Vf emitters (slightly less efficiency) also cause the driver to stop switching operation and reduce current and power sooner, this means the runtime would be larger in this particular case for a high Vf emitter (if condition allowed); and thus, comparatively speaking the low Vf emitter would have less runtime (with these conditions) because of a higher runtime window at full power.
With linear drivers (regulation using MOSFETs as variable resistors) a low emitter Vf reduces runtime, this is because the window at which current remains constant (battery voltage > emitter Vf + other component voltage drops) enlarges (causing higher average battery drain), so the amount of regulated time is larger but total runtime gets reduced. Regulated time is a fraction of total runtime, by the way.
With unregulated MOSFET drivers the answer is @#$% easy: less runtime. This is because the larger the difference between battery voltage to emitter Vf, the more the driving current (and emitter power, lemons, etc.).
Note: had to edit this more than once. If you find something worth being corrected, say so. Thanks!
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Tailcap amps?
~19.5A with a VTC5D almost fully charged
Yes something like that but with H,M,L no memory and no thermal regulation. Who wants thermal regulation anyway? That ain’t for serious modders
Well, the CULPM1.TG perform worse than the CSLPM1.TGCSLPM1.TG – 6.3A – -1200 lumens at 30 secCULPM1.TG (from Convoy)5.7A – 1160 lumens7A – 11358A – 1135same reading for both 7 & 8It’s still barely an improvementEDIT: Turns out I damaged the led at the beginning when I shorted a wire on the reflector turning purple.
New led at 7A gets 1300 lumens. Increasing to 8A only gets 13 lumen gain. I’ll be driving these with a 50E in Convoy’s ramping driver for 7A
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
what host and reflector size did you test this on ?
Convoy L21A
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Turns out I damaged the led at the beginning when I shorted a wire on the reflector turning purple.
New led at 7A gets 1300 lumens. Increasing to 8A only gets 13 lumen gain. I’ll be driving these with a 50E in Convoy’s ramping driver for 7A
6A achieved just above 1200.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
I just realized the CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG are different in size, the led, not the surround part, not sure what that’s called?
The w2.1 is smaller or is it just my eyes fooling me?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Must be an optical illusion. The distance of the emitters to the camera lens in that photograph is also unequal, which also affects assessment.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Counted pixels there and both come out to 1.59mm wide(the vertical dimension in this pic) based on 3.00mm vs 4.00mm package size. Illusion indeed
Awesome, thank you for confirming. I can finally stop staring at them now
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
Can anyone confirm this is constant current? I want a driver with regulation for the W2.1
7A is the lumen limit for this led
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
The link in your post is broken, Funtastic, missing “l” at the end. I fixed it in my above quote of yours.
That driver features a sense resistor onboard, these are used for regulation. I'd expect it to be constant current.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Thank you
I want something better than Convoy’s drivers. What should I get that has decent regulation?
One other question, does that 8A buck driver from Convoy offer better regulation? I’m not familiar with buck drivers
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights
New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)
YouTube channel – https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUWi2vYp4CWrRkOJM70t_w/videos (Demos for my customers, and reviews)
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