You’re welcome! I’m glad you like the results. I have 10621’s and 10507’s in most of my quads and triples. It’s made a huge difference in enjoyment of use for me.
Received the soft blue camo today with Fedex but without having asked it ; took 3 days . I have a better feeling with this switch than from my other ti . So now i have e21a’s in 5000,4500 and 5000/3500 .
Pics or it didn’t happen? 
Funny . I didn’t beleive it too when fedex rang my door ; i had received hank shipping email today, but didn’t bother to check . Can’t satisfy you today : no phone and my camera is in one of my boxes from my moving .
New stuff in . E21A in 2000 and 2700k .
Damn… I may have to get a 2000K mule…………… 
I want to almost completely because i am so curious after reading everything n here from people that know so much about color “temperature” (I don’t know if thats even the right term). but yea, a 2000k mule sounds awesome.
Thank you Hank for getting the E21A 2000K and 2700K that we asked for. Time to buy more D4V2s.
E21a’s makes a lot of heat, more than xpl-hi ( not true, see further ) . My d4v2 with E21a is heating faster than my Kr4’s with E21a .
That doesn’t sound right. E21A (except possibly mules) should be limited to 5A current, XP-L HI should consume more than 10A with a decent battery.
Is either one of your E21A flashlights a mule?
Did you calibrate the temperature sensor on all flashlights?
Is the temperature limit set to the same value on all flashlights?
On the max CC setting it would get hotter due to lower vF, AL pcb, no thermal pad wouldn’t it?
Yes, the D4v2 has less thermal mass than the KR4, so it heats faster.
Edit: at the same power levels
If one light is running at a higher power level than the other, like a direct-drive XP-L HI vs a regulated E21A, the higher-power one should heat faster. Because 20A of power vs 5A is a much bigger difference than anything caused by the LEDs or the small difference in host size.
I noticed Tailcap with trit slot but no trit pre-installed is missing as an option for some flashlights, like KR4 Ti.
Given that Hank is apparently happy to stuff the KR drivers into other lights, does anyone know if it’s possible to buy them separately?
I’m not sure about the kr drivers, but recently I bought a couple d4sv2 drivers from hank without any issues. Just send him an email and see if hes willing to sell them to you.
Good instinct . I did a test with 2 fresh 30q on 2 d4v2 ti . One with xpl-hi 5000k, the other with a mix of e21a’s 3500 and 5000k . Top of the ramp . Fingers on the copper . The xpl-hi gets hotter faster and seems to cut the power sooner . I did a second test holding a kr4 ti and a d4v2 ti, both with e21a’s . The kr4 is an easy winner . I’m using 30q’s from a single purchase but they seem to have different power . I will retry those test switching batteries .
The D4v2 E21A driver isn’t actually a KR4 driver. It’s just … electrically compatible. Same logical design, but different physical design. An actual KR4 driver would not fit into a D4.
Which firmware build does the D4V2 E21A use? I wouldn’t want to flash the wrong version if I decide to make any changes.
Thanks.
Edit: I just remembered the map file you added. Looks like it uses the kr4-nofet firmware.
Will that FW work for the Ti version, too, with the lighted switch?
Yes, I merged lighted switch support into the KR4 firmware, so it can be used on the D4v2 Ti with E21A.
Originally I had a separate “D4v2.5” firmware for it, but the only difference from KR4 was the lighted button… so I merged them together. I don’t think I ever published new .hex files for it though, so the most recent ones on my site are still d4v2.5.
Just make sure to use the noFET version. The FET can destroy the E21A LEDs very quickly, so it should not be enabled.
Thank you. 