Regarding the D4 the FW21Pro is able to maintain many more lumens, without a doubt, in fact only with the cooling that provides keeping it in hand is able to keep indefinitely the 2.8A mode that in mine represents about 1250 lumens
There you have the graph at 2.8A, the lumens are 1250.
The ambient temperature is 30 degrees, so I have brought it a small usb fan that has an effect similar to carrying the flashlight in your hand.
The flashlight is set to 75 degrees maximum temperature limit, but even so from 60 degrees it begins to regulate and hardly goes above 65, usually floating between 60 and 65 degrees.
If anyone is interested, I can record a thermal image with a flir of that runtime and upload it in 10x accelerated time lapse
Thanks for that data. A solid point in favor of the FW21 Pro.
This flashlight was designed for a high amp cell like the 30T so why use a 50E at 10amps? Are you just going for max run times, it is a hot rod flashlight and not meant for a bike. Just confused on your cell choice for testing its 10,000 lumen rating. That’s what we were talking about I believe.
You’re right. I have three 40Ts to use with it, but to test runtime and if I decide to use it on the mountain bike to the maximum that I have set, about 3,000 lumens, 140, I also use the 50E.
Think that on the bike and at night the flashlight cools much more than we can think and is capable of many lumens without overheating
Yes. As you say I also used a Convoy M21A sst40. Brutal. Now I Will try with S2+ sst20 4.000k on helmet
Playing with turbo I got this graph
Hmm so you also got 7000lm? Which battery have you used?
But apart thah, you got a weird looking graph… why is it jumping from 100 to 20% three times in just 1 minute?
Hi, I activated the turbo voluntarily every time the intensity fell below 1,000 lumens until I reached a temperature above 60 degrees before restarting turbo, the third time it was already exceeding 60 degrees long, so I didn’t give it a fourth. Lumens are at 7,000 because the battery had already used it a little and comes down fast. This flashlight I have seen that to give maximum lumens is very sensitive to: 1. battery voltage, 2. cleaning contacts and 3. compressing the springs. In fact right now testing with the flashlight: 1. as is and screwing the head without squeezing hard I measured 7,500 lm, 2. cleaning the tube/head contacts and squeezing strong 8,500 lm and 3. inserting a 12x2 magnet into the negative 9,500 lm. I encourage you to take the test, it’s very fast and you can comment if you exceed 9,000 lumens. The lumens I have obtained with a white pvc tube with two angles of 90 degrees and the ceilingbounce app. These are of course only approximate, but the mode-regulated flashlights that I have used to check show readings very close to those published by the manufacturer. In my lumen readings an error of 10% can be expected. Here the graph and Flir images https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu_7LV0tk-c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lu_7LV0tk-c !
Are many trouble shooting options available for this light, i have been at ti for a few hours to no avail.
Sometime i twist the head on and it ramps up, suggesting an issue with the issolation between the switch signal tube.
sometimes no light at all, but with the initial flash as you screw the tube on.
Sometimes nothing at all.
Hi, try to clean all metal contacts, both those on the tailcap (metal ring) and springs.
Then, pressing the clip towards the reflector (to make its o-ring sits flat on the thread), screw the tailcap as tight as possible. Then tighten it even more. Check if the clip’s o-ring sits perfectly flat. If not, press it again and tighten even more.
Then rest. Listen to music if you like.
After all of that, check if it works properly.
Sorry for the belated reply mate, its been a nightmare down here.
Thanks for the suggestions, the problem seems to be intermittent to the point of writing off the light, i brought it through Neals Gadgets so im not even gonna attempt to contact him.
I will keep the battery out of it and only use to show people the wow factor, but beyond that i feel it to dangerous to put into rotation.
Cheers.
Got one, like it a lot.
In stepped ramping, which is the highest level that doesn’t do PWM with direct drive?
I've detected 3 levels that doesn't do PWM on the FW21 Pro (3x XHP50.2):
a) on battery insert (smooth ramp mode only), I think this is 1x7135, probably around 150-170 lumens
(on stepped ramp mode, none of the default 7 steps matches this 1x7135 level -- which is between step #3 and #4 of the default 7 brightness levels)
b) on default max ramp (ceiling, smooth/stepped), I think this is 8x7135, probably around 1300-1500 lumens
c) on max (Turbo) level = NoPWM (max lumens depends on battery, and on how good is the contact of the battery and the spring (tightening the retaining rings can improve output a bit, if it was not very tightened from shipping condition)..
Yes, those 3 levels obviously don’t have any PWM, but it is still barely visible even on the lowest level.
Has anyone ordered the new sst40 version of the fw21 pro?
I’m looking at Neals Gadgets and want to know if it comes in 6500k or 5000k?
I’ve seen a review that said 5000k, but that person ordered directly from LT. Neal hasn’t responded to my question about the cct…
my sst-40 version of Neal is 5000k
Man, SST40 looks AMAZING!!!
Wow, thank you so much for those quality side by side photos andreas0401 !! I am very glad to hear that the sst40 version you ordered from NG is 5000k ! Because i couldn’t wait and i ordered yesterday anyway 
The sst40 5000k looks great! that was what i was hoping for, as i already had the XHP version.
By the way, i need to figure out how to make GIF’s like that for here on the forum. i know how to post pictures, i use imageshack to do so.
Really like this light been my go too for awhile now. But I would like the tint to be a bit warmer 4k.
Anybody know of any info about swamping the LED’s in this light ? And I prefer the flood beam of the XHP50.2 over the SST40 for my use.
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I think it took three wraps to get the 40T to fit nice and snug in the tube. I like it so when you drop the battery in the tube the air gets stuck behind it and the battery slides down slowly.