Sofirn SC31 PRO, New Anduril Flashlight

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

Ramping mode moonlight is lower than stepped.

[McCatface]

@Nachtfeuerzeug

I’ve had it recommended to me that 6 amps is too much for that LED. I measured 5.7A with a fresh 35E. Read Texas Aces review for more info.

Any other compatible Hi CRI emitter options?

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

@McCatface

@Nachtfeuerzeug

I’ve had it recommended to me that 6 amps is too much for that LED. I measured 5.7A with a fresh 35E. Read Texas Aces review for more info.

Any other compatible Hi CRI emitter options?

I'm going to try this LED myself (in a different light, though). It appears to be quite durable.

[how_crazy_is_this]

@Nachtfeuerzeug

Ramping mode moonlight is lower than stepped.

Yea that is the great thing about andruil. At first I kept if off stepped mode because of that. Now I have it so that the floor is the same in both and use stepped.

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

@how crazy is this

@Nachtfeuerzeug

Ramping mode moonlight is lower than stepped.

Yea that is the great thing about andruil. At first I kept if off stepped mode because of that. Now I have it so that the floor is the same in both and use stepped.

It IS awesome! I've tinkered with it a bit.

I can't wait till Anduril, in lightning mode, can transmit simulated thunder to my home theater sound system!!!

[GDF]

I wanted to test a TIR on SC31 Pro but so far the bezel is not budging. I have some lid grip rubber pads that usually do the trick, but not this time. I don’t want to resort to tools that will mar the finish. I also tried heating up the head to 70C by removing thermal limit, in case the heat would help break the glue. Still wouldn’t budge. Any other suggestions? Stupid glue…

[Tom_E]

The pine board method works well - I removed several bezels using this technique that I couldn't budge with other methods. This light probably could be done with one board and a strap wrench. But I would try the "gloves" first. The gloves worked for me with this light in breaking the blue glue seal. Think I bought mine at Lowes - this is my 2nd pair, first pair lasted a few years:

This one goes back to 2014:

This is a variation used of the pine boards for a GT Micro:

Here's a post in the mod thread from 2017 describing/showing the pine board method: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/3108

[Swabs]

Received a SC31 Pro this morning. It is the 6500K version. Looks like I will carrying this one a lot, another great Sofirn torch.

[GDF]

@Tom E

The pine board method works well - I removed several bezels using this technique that I couldn’t budge with other methods. This light probably could be done with one board and a strap wrench. But I would try the “gloves” first. The gloves worked for me with this light in breaking the blue glue seal. Think I bought mine at Lowes - this is my 2nd pair, first pair lasted a few years:

This one goes back to 2014:

This is a variation used of the pine boards for a GT Micro:

Here’s a post in the mod thread from 2017 describing/showing the pine board method: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/3108

Nice, I’ll try gloves first. I’ll probably pick up some strap wrenches too. Looks like they can come handy for several tasks

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

@maniakman

Has anyone changed the clip to the Astrolux S1/BLF A6 clip that could post pictures?

This A6 clip holds the light tight although it's not 'square' to the light and even teeters when clipped to a thick material. Positioning the clip tip on the charging port cover keeps it down and inside the pocket & improves retention. It's better to pull the light away from pocket then slide out v's just sliding it so as not to displace the rubber cover.

I prefer the clip style of a Nitenumen light (although probably not the originator of the design)

[Nachtfeuerzeug]

@how crazy is this

Can’t wait for someone with the equipment to do a full review with output and run time charts! Does anyone know how reliable the thermal regulation is? Was playing with it last night and left it at the top of the ramp for a couple of hours or so. Seemed to be fine. A rather amazing amount of light for a great run time. Would like to see what it looks like in a chart. . Seems to me that it gets sustained significant output on par with much larger lights that have better heat dissipation.

Here it is from turbo (I just read your post closer and can run it at top of ramp later). This graph is adjusted to what manufacturer says is the max output:

I haven't adjusted the temperature setting as it came to me. I believe step-down is around 39 degrees Celsius.

[Vamko]

Sofirn SP10S (left) and Sofirn SC31 Pro 6500K (right). SC31 Pro looks a bit greenish on the picture, but it is not.

Sofirn SC31 Pro 6500K.

Probably somebody would like to share a beam picture for SC31 Pro 5000K. Would be very interesting to see how 5000K tint looks.

[BLF-L]

@Vamko

… SC31 Pro looks a bit greenish on the picture, but it is not.

Probably somebody would like to share a beam picture for SC31 Pro 5000K. Would be very interesting to see how 5000K tint looks.

+1

.
.
Thanks for sharing the beamshots :+1:
Really appreciate that.
I’m still waiting for my SC31 Pro to arrive.

[TimMc]

Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K arrived today! I swapped the 18650 tube and tail cap with an 18350 tube and magnetic tail cap.

Time to learn how to use Anduril.

Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K turbo with KeepPower IMR18350 1200mAh (left) and Lumintop Tool AA 2 NW max with LADDA AA (right)

[Vamko]

@TimMc

Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K turbo with KeepPower IMR18350 1200mAh (left) and Lumintop Tool AA 2 NW max with LADDA AA (right)

Thanks for sharing beamshots! SC31 Pro 5000K looks cold in turbo.

[TimMc]

Left to right:
Manker E02II SST20 4000K with Vapcell INR10440 set to max;
Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K (?) with KeepPower IMR18350 set to turbo;
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 219C with LADDA AA set to max;
Sofirn C01S SST20 4000K with LADDA AAA set to max.

Left to right:
EagTac T25C2 XM-L U2 CW with EagTac 18650 3400mAh set to max;
Olight i3T with dc-fix and Vapcell INR10440 set to max;
Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K set to turbo;
Manker E02II SST20 4000K with Vapcell INR10440 set to max.

I’m not sure if I’ve got 5000K or 6500K.

[TimMc]

My old Sony RX100II camera thinks the hot spot is about 4500K and the outer bit is 5300K for the Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K on turbo.

[Vamko]

Thanks for sharing more beamshots!
I quess it is SST40 5000K. As far as I know, the SST40 5000K starts at around 4000K in low modes, and becomes colder when you ramp it up. So I think it is fine that in turbo it looks colder.

[TimMc]

I added some dc-fix and the beam now looks much nicer.

[TimMc]

Is the SC31 Pro safe to use to charge KeepPower IMR18350 cells?

500mA to 1000mA charge current? Terminates at 4.20V?