I’ll buck the trend and say my favorite “small” Anduril Sofirn light is still the IF25a. I feel bad I broke the first post on it without a proper review— just 4 months ago BTW. It is SHORTER than the SC31 Pro by about a 1/2” and not much heavier or wider than the SC31 Pro… and it runs on a 21700 high capacity (4800mAh) battery VERY nicely

That said, I have TWO SC31 Pro lights with another (5K) due any day now. It really is a super light and worth all the good feedback we are seeing here. But aside from a front pocket (tight) tuck light where the SC31 Pro is a natural “fit”… given a choice- I’d take the IF25a over the SC31 Pro in the 6.5k model (where I’d use it outdoor).

For INSIDE light… I am thinking I’m going to really like the SC31 Pro in the 5k when I finally get it and in that capacity it may “trump” (no political pun intended I assure you) the IF25a for that use. Oh yes, I DO have the IF25a in the 4k and it’s a great beam of natural light for sure… I’ll know which I prefer when I get the SC31 Pro 5k in and compare.

Eagerly awaiting to receive my shipment of both versions (5k and 6.5k).
Absolutely love the feature of the programmable AUX LED on my Sofirn BLF SP36 & IF25A.
Also love the breathing AUX LED on the non-Anduril SC31B.
Has anyone changed the clip to the Astrolux S1/BLF A6 clip  that could post pictures?

Would LH351D 4000K be a suitable emitter if I switch the whole MCPCB?

Received the 5k version today.

• Battery arrived @ 3.9V (tested via Multimeter ) and flashlight blinked out 3.9V as well.
• USB-C plug seems well aligned.
• Temp check was a bit low so I set it via Thermal Config.
• Programmed the switch LED to heartbeat (printed manual does not show how,- the Anduril UI forum post comes in handy).

Overall, looks like this will be my new EDC.
Only complaint is the clip, – make it a deep carry clip and this is a perfect 1×18650 light in my book.

Now wondering if the Wurkkos FC11 tube can be used (seems more pleasant to hold)….

maniakman wrote:

Now wondering if the Wurkkos FC11 tube can be used (seems more pleasant to hold)….

Nice, Thanks @McCatface !

McCatface wrote:

Would LH351D 4000K be a suitable emitter if I switch the whole MCPCB?

I've had it recommended to me that 6 amps is too much for that LED. I measured 5.7A with a fresh 35E. Read Texas Aces review for more info.

Just got the light yesterday. Very impressed! Would like a warmer tint but the 6500K version is OK if a bit on the cool side for me. Andruil is very nice.

AFIK, the default moonlight is the lowest. I believe I also configured it for 1. Still a bit high for a moonlight for me. That is my largest complaint.

I said this was going to be my last flashlight for a long time;-) OTOH, I may have to go for a 5k version and gift this one. It really does everything I want.

Can’t wait for someone with the equipment to do a full review with output and run time charts!

Does anyone know how reliable the thermal regulation is? Was playing with it last night and left it at the top of the ramp for a couple of hours or so. Seemed to be fine. A rather amazing amount of light for a great run time. Would like to see what it looks like in a chart. My eyes are easily fooled. That said I think that the top of the smooth ramp is truly a remarkable achievement. Seems to me that it gets sustained significant output on par with much larger lights that have better heat dissipation.

Ramping mode moonlight is lower than stepped.

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

I’ve had it recommended to me that 6 amps is too much for that LED. I measured 5.7A with a fresh 35E. Read Texas Aces review for more info.

McCatface wrote:

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

I've had it recommended to me that 6 amps is too much for that LED. I measured 5.7A with a fresh 35E. Read Texas Aces review for more info.

Any other compatible Hi CRI emitter options?

I'm going to try this LED myself (in a different light, though). It appears to be quite durable.

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

Ramping mode moonlight is lower than stepped.

Yea that is the great thing about andruil. At first I kept if off stepped mode because of that. Now I have it so that the floor is the same in both and use stepped.

how crazy is this wrote:

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:

Ramping mode moonlight is lower than stepped.

Yea that is the great thing about andruil. At first I kept if off stepped mode because of that. Now I have it so that the floor is the same in both and use stepped.

It IS awesome! I've tinkered with it a bit.

I can't wait till Anduril, in lightning mode, can transmit simulated thunder to my home theater sound system!!!

I wanted to test a TIR on SC31 Pro but so far the bezel is not budging. I have some lid grip rubber pads that usually do the trick, but not this time. I don’t want to resort to tools that will mar the finish. I also tried heating up the head to 70C by removing thermal limit, in case the heat would help break the glue. Still wouldn’t budge. Any other suggestions? Stupid glue…

The pine board method works well - I removed several bezels using this technique that I couldn't budge with other methods. This light probably could be done with one board and a strap wrench. But I would try the "gloves" first. The gloves worked for me with this light in breaking the blue glue seal. Think I bought mine at Lowes - this is my 2nd pair, first pair lasted a few years:

This one goes back to 2014:

This is a variation used of the pine boards for a GT Micro:

Here's a post in the mod thread from 2017 describing/showing the pine board method: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1143001#comment-1143001

Received a SC31 Pro this morning. It is the 6500K version. Looks like I will carrying this one a lot, another great Sofirn torch.

Tom E wrote:

The pine board method works well – I removed several bezels using this technique that I couldn’t budge with other methods. This light probably could be done with one board and a strap wrench. But I would try the “gloves” first. The gloves worked for me with this light in breaking the blue glue seal. Think I bought mine at Lowes – this is my 2nd pair, first pair lasted a few years:

 

This one goes back to 2014:

This is a variation used of the pine boards for a GT Micro:

 

Here’s a post in the mod thread from 2017 describing/showing the pine board method: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1143001#comment-1143001

 

Nice, I’ll try gloves first. I’ll probably pick up some strap wrenches too. Looks like they can come handy for several tasks

maniakman wrote:

Has anyone changed the clip to the Astrolux S1/BLF A6 clip  that could post pictures?

This A6 clip holds the light tight although it's not 'square' to the light and even teeters when clipped to a thick material. Positioning the clip tip on the charging port cover keeps it down and inside the pocket & improves retention. It's better to pull the light away from pocket then slide out v's just sliding it so as not to displace the rubber cover.

I prefer the clip style of a Nitenumen light (although probably not the originator of the design)

how crazy is this wrote:

Can't wait for someone with the equipment to do a full review with output and run time charts! Does anyone know how reliable the thermal regulation is? Was playing with it last night and left it at the top of the ramp for a couple of hours or so. Seemed to be fine. A rather amazing amount of light for a great run time. Would like to see what it looks like in a chart. . Seems to me that it gets sustained significant output on par with much larger lights that have better heat dissipation.

Here it is from turbo (I just read your post closer and can run it at top of ramp later). This graph is adjusted to what manufacturer says is the max output:

I haven't adjusted the temperature setting as it came to me. I believe step-down is around 39 degrees Celsius.

Sofirn SP10S (left) and Sofirn SC31 Pro 6500K (right). SC31 Pro looks a bit greenish on the picture, but it is not.

Sofirn SC31 Pro 6500K.

Probably somebody would like to share a beam picture for SC31 Pro 5000K. Would be very interesting to see how 5000K tint looks.

Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K arrived today! I swapped the 18650 tube and tail cap with an 18350 tube and magnetic tail cap.

Time to learn how to use Anduril.

Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K turbo with KeepPower IMR18350 1200mAh (left) and Lumintop Tool AA 2 NW max with LADDA AA (right)

TimMc wrote:

Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K turbo with KeepPower IMR18350 1200mAh (left) and Lumintop Tool AA 2 NW max with LADDA AA (right)

Thanks for sharing beamshots! SC31 Pro 5000K looks cold in turbo.

Left to right:
Manker E02II SST20 4000K with Vapcell INR10440 set to max;
Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K (?) with KeepPower IMR18350 set to turbo;
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 219C with LADDA AA set to max;
Sofirn C01S SST20 4000K with LADDA AAA set to max.

Left to right:
EagTac T25C2 XM-L U2 CW with EagTac 18650 3400mAh set to max;
Olight i3T with dc-fix and Vapcell INR10440 set to max;
Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K set to turbo;
Manker E02II SST20 4000K with Vapcell INR10440 set to max.

I’m not sure if I’ve got 5000K or 6500K.

My old Sony RX100II camera thinks the hot spot is about 4500K and the outer bit is 5300K for the Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K on turbo.

Thanks for sharing more beamshots!
I quess it is SST40 5000K. As far as I know, the SST40 5000K starts at around 4000K in low modes, and becomes colder when you ramp it up. So I think it is fine that in turbo it looks colder.

I added some dc-fix and the beam now looks much nicer.

Is the SC31 Pro safe to use to charge KeepPower IMR18350 cells?

500mA to 1000mA charge current? Terminates at 4.20V?

ZL SC64c LE, SC31 Pro, GA

ZL SC64c LE, SC31 Pro, GA

TimMc wrote:

Is the SC31 Pro *safe* to use to charge KeepPower IMR18350 cells? 500mA to 1000mA charge current? Terminates at 4.20V?

I think you can do that with a 500 mA USB power source. Don't use a quick charger. You might have an older phone charger sitting around.