KC1 keychain light is available now

Thank you very much for the information. It all makes sense.

The colors are well defined and beautiful for the high mode. The low mode is still useful, just like the brightness of trit. Indeed, it is lucky to have the low mode.

Is there an ETA on some color restock?

Been eyeing the cyan D4s for a bit but been out of stock ever sinch march-ish.

Noticed the K1 is down to creamy only, which isn’t bad since it’s the one I like best but… options are always nice.

That's very unfortunate. I hope he considers doing another run of cyan at least. It seems to be the most popular color.

Thanks for this very useful information.

How do the E21A (various temps) compare with the above LEDs?

I just ordered my first D4v2 from Hank, in brass and requested it with W2 emitters. I bought a 10621 from mtn and it actually throws really well. From a visual observation it appears close to my D4sV2 throw with sst20 5000k. Obviously it is not a nice warm temp / color like a nichia, but I did it in n attempt to have a far throwing useful beam & edc, and I’m VERY happy with it! The W2’s costed extra but Hank accommodated greatly. Hank is the Best

Hi all,

I'm ready to order a Noctigon KR4 as my very first 18650 light, and first Anduril UI.

I only need to choose the LED that best answers my preferences. I lake neutral to warm colors, good CRI although I don't really require > 95, more than 85 will do.

From former messages in this thread I understand the new Nichia E21A is high CRI, the 4500K version should be fine with me colorwise. I also read that the light will get heat more than with other LEDs for the same amount of lumens.

How will the E21A compare with the other NW options:

  1. XPL-HI V2 4000K (CRI=???)
  2. SST20 4000K 95 CRI

in terms of heat, lumens, runtime, flood vs throw, and colors?

Can anybody please point me to the relevant post by Maukka?

On the other hand, are there any GITD accessories for this light, like for the FW3A (tail switch cover, front gasket, O-ring to be placed around the light body, etc)?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

My purely subjective experience with the KR4 with E21A 4500K is the tint is a nice all purpose tint. It’s great for indoor and outdoor use for close to medium distance lighting (due to the floody optic; I tried the throwy optic and it had artifacts). I can use it for all but work, as it’s too big to carry in scrubs and I prefer the smaller Reylight with the Nichia 219B for an even rosier tiny for skin examination.

In comparison with the XP-L-HI and SST20, they definitely are greener with poorer brown color rendering but still useable for daily non-clinical settings. The E21A has not generated excessive heat in my daily use; I set ramp max at 130/150 and rarely hit that max and rarely use turbo. In real life use, I haven’t found much difference in heat issues between the E21A and the other emitters.

TL;DR: You’ll likely be happy with the E21A, it’s a good with floody optics and great for all purpose use.

I have been comparing 5000 and 4500 . If you need real white and a little more vibrant color, you go to the 5000 . Otherwise the warmer tint of the 4500 helps to have a more relax sight, not being induce in focusing .

This thing is cool. Non-trit shot taken under the light of SST-20 3000k.

Anyone EDC a colorful series Emisar or Noctigon? I’m curious how durable the anodization is. I’d like to EDC this, but it looks so perfect!

Drool…. Looks even better here than on Hank’s site… I really don’t need one but… damn.

Hank said the ano wears like regular ano.
I’m not entirely convinced, ano is a surface coating that is harder than the aluminum substrate…

On Ti I think it’s an etching where the distance between ‘etches’ affects the color reflected that we see. I bet an ano Ti knife guy would know more definitively…

I didn’t either, but here we are!

Titanium anodization wears off extremely fast compared to a properly anodized aluminum surface. Tiny, long scratches called snail trails will show up almost immediately after being handled. Maybe it will hold up a little bit better on the body where the surface isn’t 100% smooth.

The colors will also fade when in contact with skin oils, but will restore once cleaned.

Hmmm, I wonder what other people’s heavily used colorful series look like now.

This is my shelf queen, never carried D4v2 ti blue swirl, tailcap REALLY lets it down

What am I doing wrong? Why isn’t image showing?

My blue swirl tailcap has no markings ??

See my photo? Mine looks awful

Did you rub it?