SOS is probably disabled as a default. I always understood the order to be batt/beacon/temp - this is how Anduril and Anduril2 work, as far as I know. With Anduril2, you can disable beacon too ()
// boring strobes nobody really likes, but sometimes flashlight companies want // (these replace the fun strobe group, // so don't enable them at the same time as any of the above strobes) //#define USE_POLICE_STROBE_MODE //#define USE_SOS_MODE //#define USE_SOS_MODE_IN_FF_GROUP // put SOS in the "boring strobes" mode //#define USE_SOS_MODE_IN_BLINKY_GROUP // put SOS in the blinkies mode group
So, you have to edit this file, or add the #define's to your cfg file. It's compiled in or out, so you can't add it via the UI.
[a] 3 stepped modes + optionally a hidden turbo
[b] Configure all 3 (or 4 in case of turbo) of them with whatever lumen value I like.
[c] Optionally: Groups
I tried all sort of stuff and always come back to something simple.
[a] I have in both my favorite lights, but [b] would really set it aside from other UIs. It would instantly solve all complaints about bad mode spacing.
[c] Very much like the Convoy groups. But this time the user defines the values as described in [b]
Just a few groups would be great. I would make a Indoor, Outdoor, Speciality groups.
Is something like the above possible with the new UI?
About the channel configuration, it could definitely stand to be refactored. Itāll probably require moving some setup code out of FSM though, and into each tiny85 hwdef file. That part of FSM was written when every device used the same pins for PWM, so it didnāt need the extra flexibility used in the later hwdefs.
Looks like this was already answered. SOS isnāt included by default, since every time it comes up, people almost unanimously say they donāt want it.
Iām probably going to change the order of the blinky modes though, before calling Anduril 2 ādoneā. I think Tom makes a good point, so Iām thinking of changing the order to:
Batt check
Temp check
Beacon
SOS
ā¦ and some of these may or may not be included, depending on how the build target is configured.
Iām not planning to put version check into the blinky group though. Itās too useful for customer support purposes to hide it at the end of a hidden mode group. So it is intentionally easy to reach by doing āclick a bunch of times (15 or more)ā.
A. Yes. The stepped ramp and simple-mode ramp can both be configured to have 3 steps. Simple has no turbo, while the regular stepped ramp does.
B. No. It only allows setting the floor and ceiling levels. Intermediate steps are calculated automatically. However, you could adjust the ramp shape in the source code in order to change the spacing of intermediate levels. If you prefer more low modes, use a steep ramp like x^9, and if you prefer more high modes, use a gentle ramp like x^2.
C. Ish. There is a smooth ramp, a stepped ramp, and a simple-mode ramp. Each can have different configuration. Part of the reason why these exist is so people can have one configured for indoor use and one for outdoor use, with a quick and easy shortcut to switch between.
The default and recommended configuration is to use smooth indoors, stepped outdoors, and simple mode for when someone else uses the light.
Not sure if it helps at all, but I generally only use steps 1/7, 2/7, and occasionally 3/7. And maybe once in a while, 7/7. This gives me two or three decent low-to-medium modes and a burst modeā¦ and the extras in-between may not get used but theyāre also not in the way. Itās not like a clicky-switch light where the user must cycle through each mode while navigating.
Another way to configure it is with 3 steps, with the floor at ~5 lm and the ceiling at ~50 lm. Then itās just three steps and there can still be access to turbo if you want it.
Or use the smooth ramp, so the number of steps wonāt even be relevant.
If consistent runtimes are needed at such low levels, another option is to set manual memory to ~15 lm, go to the smooth ramp, and set the manual memory timer to a short value like 1 minute. Then itāll always turn on at the same brightness, unless it was turned off very recently. It basically becomes a 1-mode light with the ability to temporarily adjust brightness if needed.
If none of these options are acceptable, sources are available including a UI toolkit and a couple simpler example UIs which can be modified to use arbitrary levels.
Soā¦ there are options. None are exactly as requested, but some can be pretty close.
So thatās 5 low, 50 high and something like 25/30 mid? Would be good. The lumens I mention are just an indication. If on top of that I can configure a turbo I got all I need.
If I have to swap cells once every 4 hours Iām pleased. Even a AA does that with ease (Tool AA, wish I could reprogram tha one)
So the levels are hard coded? Bit of coding likely wonāt cause much of problem. My bigger challenges are finding a light with the right chip thatās not glued down or something like that.
So it sounds what I want is possible with some tweaking.
Well weāve talked about it a couple of times in the past and many more have mentioned the issues here and there. Toykeeper has been made aware of the glitch several times too.
Like I said many times, you ramp to Max ramp in muggle mode and it steps down to min ramp straight away, the problem is intermittent.
Muggle mode is potentially an excellent feature/selling point and I do feature it a lot in my reviews.
The lumen outputs are not linear. Human perception doesnāt work like that. If it uses the commonly-accepted cube-root model of brightness perception, spacing which looks āevenā would be 5 lm, 19.6 lm, and 50 lm.
Anduril uses a similarly curved ramp to make it appear as if the spacing is linearā¦ even though itās nowhere near linear in terms of lumen numbers or power usage.
As for power usage, if youāre only at 5 to 50 lumens and itās using a 18650 cell, you can expect like ~15 to ~150 hours of runtime per charge.
ā¦ and for finding a light with an easily-accessible control chip, Iād suggest going to Intl-Outdoor and getting an Emisar or Noctigon light plus a reflashing kit. Itās well-supported and allows reflashing with no soldering. Just unscrew the battery tube, hold the pogo pins against the driver, and run a command on a computer.
There are a few different UIs included with FSM. Anduril is the largest and most complex, but there are others which behave like a ZebraLight or Olight, and the code for those is much much simpler and easier to learn from.
Oh. That was fixed well over a year ago, in May of 2019, while people were receiving the first batch of FW3A lights. Maukka reported it while reviewing a pre-production sample, so I fixed it right awayā¦ but at that point Lumintop had already made the drivers for the first batch, so it couldnāt be included until the second batch or later. Iāve posted about it a bunch of times to let everyone know what exactly what was broken and when/how it was fixed.
Soā¦ it has been fixed for a long time. But I canāt magically update the firmware on lights which were produced with old versions, so people with old lights might still run into that issue.
The best I can do is send updated versions to every manufacturer who is willing to use itā¦ which I did. That may or may not include Lumintop though. Last I heard, they rejected my updates and I havenāt had any communication with them at all since last year. None of their recent FW-series lights are using firmware which was intended for those products, so Iād advise caution there.
As for Anduril 2, it doesnāt even have a muggle mode. That got removed and replaced with something better, as described in this threadās first post.
Iāve mentioned it every Anduril light Iāve used and get the same reply especially with Astrolux āThey use an older version for some reason, the latest version is bug freeā but this was never true, it was glitchy til the end. Unlike Tom I use and test Muggle mode. Iāve tested more Anduril lights than most.
I had one that steps down if you continually hold the button as a safety feature and that also has the glitchy muggle mode. I thought that was the final version. But I suppose itās academic since has the ill-fated mode is set to be abandoned.
Sunset mode having brightness and time configuration is crucial. To get to turbo you have to be at max ceiling? thatās a no no. Itās all getting a bit vanilla. Call the new Muggle mode āVanilla modeā lol.