Yes, it’s a KR4 with E21A 2000K R9050.
Sounds like it is triggering Anduril factory reset because the button is pressed. I don’t know why that would happen.
Yeah I wonder if the 18350 is too long? It’s very tight to screw on. I tried putting the little metal ring with the lanyard hole in between the sections to see if that make any difference but no luck…
Still a bad a$$ light with the 18650 (:
Turns out it was user error (:
It seems like I was putting the black plastic “sleeve” in from the wrong end. I inserted it so the the “lip” is on the LED side of the 18350 tube and it’s working great. I also realized I was in muggle mode which was causing the strange behavior.
Which one do you like better? I have the 2000K but that XP-E2 Amber looks pretty sweet
I like both, but I definitely prefer the E21A 2000K R9080. It just looks great.
My next goal is to try all of these amber leds, to see which one I like best:
Osram KY CSLNM1.FY [phosphor-converted]
Cree XP-E2 PC Amber [phosphor-converted]
Cree XP-E2 Amber [monochromatic]
Wellp, amber is pretty much monochrome, with a cri of about 3.
A good 2000K LED will still look “amber” from being so warm, but have a much wider spectrum and higher cri.
Oh, sure, blame me… 
Sounds odd, though. Will have to try it and see.
Ha sorry it came out that way. Found the issue - I put the black tube in the wrong end. Feel like a dummy
Nice! I love this 2000K. Glad I got 4 of the 18350s because they obviously don’t last as long as the 18650s did. It started to dim and then actually turned off yesterday and the battery was at like 2.3 volts (:
I also want to try the Luminus Xnova Cube 1800K 90 CRI, R9 is about 50:
Phosphor converted color LEDs are kind of fun. I already have a “Pure Green” Osram, which is indeed a very good thrower, and that tint of CSLNM1 can be driven quite far. Unfortunately I looked into the specs, and found, that the yellow/amber tinted CSLMN1 output starts to flat out much sooner. For it, I guess, a 3A current driver could be perfectly fine instead of a 5A current one (thus, not going to use Turbo on my Noctigon K1 /ordered, shipped, but not yet delivered/).
Still, I am very excited to see it. The “Yellow” has almost as wide spectrum as the “Pure Green”.
If you want a complete research on this, you could include Nichia E17A as well, as I recall, there are green, yellow and red tints all of them phosphor-converted.
Could this be the Epiled “Golden Yellow” 5050?
I doubt it. That Juntang LED has two bond wires inside, not three.
Field use pix of my E21A 2000K D4v2 
Thanks for posting the photo!
Wow! I have the D4V2 in 6500K and I’m tempted to gift it and replace it with a warmer color. Might be cool to try 2700K
No, not cool, it would be warm, LOL, just joking around.
Still, It might depend upon how and where you will be using it and your eyes. I have an XP-L High 7A 3000k that I do not use outdoors very much because it is too warm. It is fine around a campfire or indoors, but not walking in the woods. After that experience I have been staying with 4000k and some 5000k lights. But with the other issues like CRI, etc. you might like the 2000k, these guys sure do, so let us know. You might even convince me to try it.
Summertime when you’re swarmed by bugs outside, you’ll be wanting something in the infrared. 
Yep. I have a Skilhunt H03 with 2000K E21A, and I can confirm, I receive half amount of incoming insects compared to my other headlamps 