Hi, I got a K1 today and there was a smudge or scratch on the reflector so I took it apart and can’t get it back together again. There’s a rubber gasket on the glass that I’m not sure if it goes between the glass and the reflector or the glass and the bezel. And there was a split rubber o-ring that I’m not sure exactly where it goes. I could’ve sworn it came off between the bezel and the bottom of the threads, exposed to the outside. But then the reflector rattles so I think it goes somewhere between the edge of the reflector and the glass. Can anyone help?
Update: I saw that there’s a recessed groove on the inside of the bezel so the rubber gasket side of the lens must go there. And I think I had the bezel cross threaded a little bit. Now it tightens down all the way and sandwiches the bezel just fine. And I think the split o-ring does on between the bottom of the bezel and the head, exposed to the outside, and works as a lock washer of sorts. But I can’t seem to get the bezel on tight enough with it.
Update 2: It took a lot of grip strength to tighten down the bezel with the split o-ring but it seems to be necessary to have a nice even focus on the hotspot. Too tight without the rubber ring and the led goes too deep into the reflector. Anyways, fixed. Phew!
Yeah, it looks like the remnants of glue or something. I couldn’t clean it off. And I know what you mean! Luckily I tinker with watches and have everything I need to clean smudges such as a Rocket Air Blaster and Rodico putty.
Forgive the lazy post (I’ve scanned back a couple of pages, but would rather not do the other 19) but as per my thread here I’m considering the K1 for spotting wildlife (and generally showing off, pointing it at distant objects.) Insofar as it’ll be used practically, it’ll be for spotting wildlife at night.
I’m looking at the Osram LED’s, which should I go for (or what are the pro’s and con’s of each)?
And there’s a few comments about scratched reflectors on here, is that just lengthy discussion of a small number of people having issues or is it quite common?
I think they are fairly isolated problems, not common. Folks are more likely to post about a problem than about ‘no problem.’ I got one with sbt90.2 and it is fine, no issues. For your purposes (I read your other thread), I’d recommend the W2.1 Osram for most throw and least spill (should give you good runtime also). That is, unless you fancy a green-colored emitter (W1).
The light comes with a belt holster, which is good since it does get a bit tiresome to carry in the hand for much more than a half hour… not that it’s heavy, but it’s front-heavy (not balanced) with its large head.
I got 2 K1's - one W1 and one SBT90.2. There is a small, minor mark in one reflector but has no effect. Both are great lights, great quality, great design. Absolutely the best driver design I know of for the W1 LED's - perfect max amp level (4.9 amps), solid regulation, and re-programmable.
I'd buy a 3rd, maybe 4th with different LED's if I could reason why I need them
Hi guys, thinking of buying it and wondered what is the inner tube diameter of this light? Have some rewrapped vapcell batteries and I am not sure if they’ll fit…
On mine, it measures 21.8 mm inner diameter. I tried a thick-wrapped cell with 21.8 mm outer diameter, and there’s just enough space for the cell to work without getting stuck. It slides out easily with just gravity.
Then my batteries fill fit fine. Just ordered the light. Green color looks pretty amazing and culpm1 led should work just great…Now the hard part, which is waiting lol…
Yea, it's a bit pricey with no offered discounts but it's got some pricey parts:
USB-C charging built in to the battery carrier - because it's separate, maybe worth $10 extra
large SS bezel - BG charges big bucks for large SS bezels for their lights (~ $9 for FT03), so another $10 there
driver - pretty special with PWM-less current regulation and FET (another $10-$15 extra), plus multi-color AUX LED support using the more advanced 1634 MCU
you know how lights like sofirn sc31 pro has USB-A to USB-C charging cable? i heard most flashlights with USB-C port only allows this type of charging, and does not allow USB-C to USB-C cable, which given the right cable and wall adaptor/power bank, can use PD (Power delivery), and charge things up super fast.
he did not mention it in the “review”, well technically he does, but he doesn’t know:
Plus, for what it’s worth it appears Hank has upgraded the W1 and W2 emitters recently! I don’t know if that’s worth extra ching, but I know it has very recently tipped me over the edge on wether to buy the K1 with a Osram emitter! Also, the (new?) convoy L21a with CULPM1 goes for ~$45… I think comparing the K1 to that light shows the value of the K1 @ $90… Well really they’re both good values, but still…
wait, i havent looked into the L21a, but if you say comparing that to k1, it shows value of k1 at 90, then doesnt that mean L21a quality/performance isnt worth the 45 price point? lol
Yea, those OSRAM's are more $$$. I hope he tuned up the amps if the new LED's can take more amps. The original W1 K1 was set to 4.9 amps max.
For the USB-C issue, I don't have a K1 with me now but I should test it out on a USB-C connector. Assuming I could just use a USB-C/USB-C cable to a tablet or laptop.
Shame that Hank's listing on the K1 is leaving out so much of the spec's on the K1, because they are "pro" specs, not cons, like PWM-less regulation. It probably has the proper USB-C support but it's just not listed.
There’s a rubber gasket on the glass that I’m not sure if it goes between the glass and the reflector or the glass and the bezel. And there was a split rubber o-ring that I’m not sure exactly where it goes. I could’ve sworn it came off between the bezel and the bottom of the threads, exposed to the outside. But then the reflector rattles so I think it goes somewhere between the edge of the reflector and the glass. Can anyone help?
! Didn't take apart the front end on either K1 yet. Hope you didn't fiddle with the smudge or scratch - usually it's only made worse - I know...