What did you mod today?

[g_damian]

@Chatika vas Paus

I have 4000k Optisolis on a quad PCB and I wanted to put them in D4 too

Go for it!

@Chatika vas Paus

1.Why did you use cfg-noctigon-kr4-nofet.h instead of cfg-emisar-d4v2-nofet.h?

Because constant current 5 Amps driver for D4 is very similar to KR4 driver. It also uses the same MCU - ATtiny1634. Please check the source code of cfg-noctigon-kr4-nofet.h :

// Noctigon KR4 (fetless) config options for Anduril // (and Noctigon KR1) // (and Emisar D4v2 E21A, a.k.a. “D4v2.5”)

@Chatika vas Paus

2.Why you have max pwm level 410 while 255 is max?

255 is a max for ATtiny85. For ATtiny1634 it is 1023. I believe it has something to do with greater resolution of analog to digital converters.

@Chatika vas Paus

3.Why do you need these wires for? Why it making soldering easier?

Yes, I used those small wires to lift MCPCB up during soldering to break contact with flashlight head to limit heat transfer.

@Chatika vas Paus

4.If the leds don’t light up below 3, why don’t you delete what’s before? (0,0,1,1,1,2,2)

It is working for SST-20 in my KR4. But does not work for Optisolis. I probably will remove it during next firmware update.

@Chatika vas Paus

5.What would the table look like if I wanted to limit the current to 3A?

3A means 750mA per each led, so 150 lumens, 600 lumens for 4 leds, max level 3A/5A*1024=614, so

level_calc.py 3.0 1 150 7135 0 5 600

0,0,1,1,2,2,3,3,4,5,5,6,7,7,8,9,10,11,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,20,21,22,23,25,26,27,29,30,32,33,35,36,38,40,41,43,45,47,49,51,53,55,57,59,61,64,66,68,71,73,76,78,81,84,87,89,92,95,98,101,104,107,111,114,117,121,124,128,131,135,139,142,146,150,154,158,162,167,171,175,180,184,189,193,198,203,208,212,217,223,228,233,238,244,249,255,260,266,272,277,283,289,295,302,308,314,321,327,334,341,347,354,361,368,375,383,390,397,405,412,420,428,436,444,452,460,468,477,485,494,502,511,520,529,538,547,556,566,575,585,594,604,614

@Chatika vas Paus

6.Why use level_calc.py when values in this are for 7135 and fet?

I guess 7135 just represents constant current regulator.

[Tom_E]

Its' interesting in some of these new drivers I've looked at - they design a limited or regulated output channel to match the 0.35 amps a 7135 provides, just to be compatible with our firmware. It's hardware designed for firmware, not the usual other way around.

[jon_slider]

Maratac aaa mod to 660nm Red
pic is a link to info about using it to stop migraines

fwiw, the mod results in all 3 modes being the same, 7 lumens on my meter. This is not a problem for use as a Red Light Therapy tool.

atm you can get a Red LED Sofirn C01R with 3 modes. I recommend them for red light therapy if you dont mod your own lights. They have 3 working modes, and are inexpensive.

[contactcr]

I know it’s semantics but I wonder if it’s actually even going to the other modes. When I modded a thrunite aaa with the deep red I was sometimes stuck in the same mode but occasionally it would go to other modes too. Makes me think maybe a bleeder resistor or pencil mod might be able to make the mode issues more reliable. However, this is all above my electrical expertise so it’s really just a guess.

[jon_slider]

@contactcr

I wonder if it’s actually even going to the other modes. When I modded a thrunite aaa with the deep red I was sometimes stuck in the same mode but occasionally it would go to other modes too.

I would welcome education on how to make the modes on my AAA lights work better, when modding to Red

previously modded a drop.com aaa LMH Copper Tool,
it now has 3 modes, 5, 10, 12 lumens

this time I modded an MLH Maratac aaa to 660nm Red
it now has 3 identical modes of 7 lumens w AAA eneloop

both of those aaa lumintop drivers are giving unanticipated results.

I have also modded a Thrunite T10T to 660nm. It retained mode spacing and kept 4 distinct modes, albeit at lower level than the stock XP-L

thanks for sharing that the thrunite aaa also does not retain mode spacing, I was wondering about that, and now I dont have to do a mod myself… I have a thrunite aaa titanium. I modded it to XP-E2 530nm Green LED, and it retained 3 distinct modes of 0.1, 8, and 65 lumens on aaa eneloop.

I dont know why green works fine to retain modes, and red does not.

on my meter the green, on second mode reads 8.4 lumens and the red reads 6.5 lumens (with the same partly depleted aaa eneloop @1.26v)

it would be great if we can learn how to make the AAA drivers give 3 modes with a Red LED…

the Sofirn C01R has 3 well spaced modes on Red… they obviously know something I dont (yet)

[contactcr]

The big picture explanation is this (XP-E2 datasheet):

Red and Green have very different forward voltages (in fact they are further apart than any other color)

The C01R was designed around the red’s very low voltage requirement.

How each individual driver reacts to this is what is unknown.

Also, there is an element you are mentioning “spacing” which you are using a lux meter that can barely “see” very deep red and I don’t know how well it correlates to your eyes but surely it’s good enough to know if the modes are even changing at all.

[jon_slider]

@contactcr

very deep red

thanks for the VF info…

fwiw, deep red, far red, photo red, are vague terms, I prefer to specify the nm

some call 660nm deep red, others call 730nm deep red. They are totally different in the amount of visible light, and that also shows up on my meter.

for example, w 660nm I get 8 lumens from my Maratac, but with 730nm I only get 0.6 lumens (which is why I removed the 730nm, since all 3 modes only give the same 0.6 lm.)

on my T10T the 730nm gives 0.05, 0.1, 1, 5 lumens
so the spacing is still there
I kept the 730nm in that light, specifically for red light therapy. I mostly use the 1 lumen level to reduce pain from arthritis, headache, sore muscles…

I dont use red for illumination… but the 660nm does work for that, the 730nm does not…

[moderator007]

@contactcr

I know it’s semantics but I wonder if it’s actually even going to the other modes. When I modded a thrunite aaa with the deep red I was sometimes stuck in the same mode but occasionally it would go to other modes too. Makes me think maybe a bleeder resistor or pencil mod might be able to make the mode issues more reliable. However, this is all above my electrical expertise so it’s really just a guess.

Which model thrunite AAA was it?
I modded a thrunite Ti3 V2 with a red XP-G3 645nm and all modes worked fine.
I have the SST-20-DR-B120-V660
XP-G3 photo red 645nm
XP-E2 photo red 660nm
LH351H red 643nm
.
I still have a few Ti3 V2 to mod, which led are we seeing the mode changes disappear in.
I will see if I can duplicate the problem if I have the right red led.

[contactcr]

I believe the problem combination (for me) was Ti3 V2 and Far Red XP-E2 but my trouble was slightly different. It would sometimes go through the modes fine but sometimes get stuck on the same mode and not increment. Like it was not recognizing it was losing power completely?

I also had trouble in a very old Olight AAA with the same LED. Memory is hazy

[jon_slider]

@contactcr

Far Red XP-E2

iow 730nm?
I get no modes w that LED in my AAA Maratac and Tool
same issue w XP-E2 660nm

if there is a resistor mod, that would be great to learn.
or
if SST-20 660nm works in an AAA Thrunite, Maratac, Tool,
without losing mode spacing, and without a resistor mod… then I would go there

@moderator007

I modded a thrunite Ti3 V2 with a red XP-G3 645nm and all modes worked fine.

I prefer not to go below 660nm, so the XP-G3 645nm is not as interesting… but good to know it retains modes on the Thrunite AAA.

SST-20 in 660nm that Sofirn is now using in the C01R, are available here

but the VF is similar to XP-E2 660nm and XP-G3 645nm, so there must be another factor in play for the Thrunite AAA to retain modes with the XP-G3, and not with the XP-E2

I dont see a big difference in VF, so dont know why modes are retained w XP-G3 and not w XP-E2

photo red XP-E2 VF @350mA is 2.05v

645nm XP-G3 VF @350mA is 1.99v

660nm SST-20 VF @350mA is 2.1v

[moderator007]

That’s where I got the SST-20’s from.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Luminus-Devices/SST-20-DR-B120-V660

[jon_slider]

@moderator007

That’s where I got the SST-20’s from.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Luminus-Devices/SST-20-DR-B120-V660

well… please share if modes are retained in a Thrunite AAA with an SST-20 660nm, like they are with XP-G3 645nm

both contactcr and I confirm that modes are lost with XP-E2 660nm and 730nm, in AAA Thrunite, Maratac, Tool

[moderator007]

I swapped the Ti3 led for the 660nm SST-20 and I get low and strobe.
I powered the driver out of the light with my power supply and SST-20 installed, at about 1.77v the modes come back and work as they should.
Not sure what’s going on with it, but I changed one capacitor value up then down with no change.
Also wired in a 50k pot for one of the resistors to get a full range of values and also got no change.
I dont know what to change yet but I know which capacitor and resisitor doesn’t effect it.

[Henk4U2]

@moderator007

……
I dont know what to change yet but I know which capacitor and resisitor doesn’t effect it.

For a fraction of a second I thought you were talking about my wife. :person_facepalming:

[id30209]

LOOOL^^^

[jon_slider]

@moderator007

I swapped the Ti3 led for the 660nm SST-20 and I get low and strobe.

thanks for modding to test
so, I wont bother buying SST-20 660nm then
and we know the XP-E2 660nm does not work either
sounds like XP-G3 645nm is the easiest way to have normal mode spacing on an aaa swap

I would prefer to try an XP-G3 660nm… googling now

found this XP-G3 660nm

ordered a couple to test, will share what I learn

[jon_slider]

AAA Ti Tool Pocket Clip upgrade

pic is a link to a review

[CRX]

I've had these built for a few months now. Some mechanical vaping mod.. mods.

CRX RV Titan I Triple Nichia 219C – Anduril – 18650 – E-Tail Sw – 2200lm.

CRX RV HammerHand Nichia 219C 4000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 740lm.

CRX RV Titan II LH351D 5000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 1200lm.

.

Also:

[Slayer1]

@CRX

I’ve had these built for a few months now. Some mechanical vaping mod… mods.

CRX RV Titan I Triple Nichia 219C – Anduril – 18650 – E-Tail Sw – 2200lm.

CRX RV HammerHand Nichia 219C 4000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 740lm.

CRX RV Titan II LH351D 5000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 1200lm.

Absolute fine craftmanship mate!

[Henk4U2]

@CRX, your handywork reminds me of a Madness hit from 1979: One Step Beyond!