What did you mod today?

That’s where I got the SST-20’s from.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Luminus-Devices/SST-20-DR-B120-V660

well… please share if modes are retained in a Thrunite AAA with an SST-20 660nm, like they are with XP-G3 645nm

both contactcr and I confirm that modes are lost with XP-E2 660nm and 730nm, in AAA Thrunite, Maratac, Tool

I swapped the Ti3 led for the 660nm SST-20 and I get low and strobe.
I powered the driver out of the light with my power supply and SST-20 installed, at about 1.77v the modes come back and work as they should.
Not sure what’s going on with it, but I changed one capacitor value up then down with no change.
Also wired in a 50k pot for one of the resistors to get a full range of values and also got no change.
I dont know what to change yet but I know which capacitor and resisitor doesn’t effect it. :wink:

For a fraction of a second I thought you were talking about my wife. :person_facepalming:

LOOOL^^^

thanks for modding to test
so, I wont bother buying SST-20 660nm then
and we know the XP-E2 660nm does not work either
sounds like XP-G3 645nm is the easiest way to have normal mode spacing on an aaa swap

I would prefer to try an XP-G3 660nm… googling now

found this XP-G3 660nm

ordered a couple to test, will share what I learn

AAA Ti Tool Pocket Clip upgrade


pic is a link to a review

I've had these built for a few months now. Some mechanical vaping mod.. mods.

CRX RV Titan I Triple Nichia 219C – Anduril – 18650 – E-Tail Sw – 2200lm.

CRX RV HammerHand Nichia 219C 4000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 740lm.

CRX RV Titan II LH351D 5000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 1200lm.

.

Also:

Absolute fine craftmanship mate!

@CRX, your handywork reminds me of a Madness hit from 1979: One Step Beyond!

Is that a Foursevens clip?
I always wanted to purchase their clips for my AAAs.

Yep, sure is.

Thanks!

Nice!

I built a Convoy S8 with quad Nichia E17A 4500K LEDs that I got from Virence. I wanted to keep the current to less than 7 amps so I got a Convoy 17mm Driver for SST40 which maxes out at 5 amps.

I encountered 3 new challenges with this build:

  • Soldering the 4 wires to the non-DTP board was very tricky! One time when I was soldering a wire, another wire unsoldered and fell off. You have to be quick, precise, and not worry about imperfections.
  • I used thinner silicone 24 AWG wire vs my normal 22 AWG, but it was still a very tight fit curling up all 4 wires into the shallow pill cavity (the S8 has the same pill as an S2). The bigger S2+ pill would’ve been much more accommodating, or next time I’ll get some 26 AWG wire.
  • Convoy states “This 12 groups sst40 driver is compatible with lighted switch.” This is true, but I noticed the output greatly decreased with a small drop in voltage when using inefficient switch LEDs (like orange). I made a salmon colored switch (pink and orange LEDs mixed), but couldn’t use it because of this issue. So instead I swapped the switch with a green one that I had in another flashlight.

And in case you didn’t know, E17As are very fragile. In another flashlight I was building, the LED spacer gently bumped against one of the E17As and broke it. Went from a nice CCT to purple. So for the S8 I decided not to use a spacer – GASP! The 4 wires on the LED board do a great job centering the reflector and the silicone sheathing prevents any shorts. Plus now the aluminum reflector helps to dissipate heat.

When I put it all together, as expected, there was a small donut hole in the beam. So I lightly frosted the inside of the lens and the beam turned out great. And the flashlight still has some good throw.

The output and tint is awesome! Certainly some nice rosiness in the tint, but a little less than my 219B sw45k S2 triple at lower currents. At higher currents the E17As are rosier. I’m not sure which I like better yet, but not a bad dilemma to have.

Nice. Yeah, those are fragile led’s is bumped the “wrong” way. But nice tints. I have broken E21a’s in a similar way.

great writeup
congrats on your High CRI mod

thanks for the pics… there is one missing… lol
(the beam)

I like my pink sw45k, but I also like the whiter whites and great color separation from the less pink tinted E21a

definitely a nice problem to have
spoilt fer choice

I have similar skilz… lol

Left pic is at low current, left beam is 219B, right is E17A. The right pic is the same, but at high current. With my iPhone, this is the best I could do to show the difference.

NeutralFan have you tried to use one wire with insulation cut inside? This way I was able to use 22awg wires.

Great suggestion Chatika vas Paus! I’m not sure if my soldering skills are good enough to pull that off though.

Have you had any issues using the LED spacer? I’m afraid to put one on since it would be such a tight fit and the E17As break so easily.