Has anyone measured the lumen output on the E3?
One other thing, I have been thinking about how the E3 would perform with a smooth reflector, does anyone know where I could find a smooth reflector for the E3?
I have a Nitecore MT2C and on the lowest level (measured around 38 lumens by reviewer selfbuilt) it’s noticeably brighter than my E3 on the mid level looking at about 1 meter distance.
I swapped the 5700k Nichia for a 4000k SST20 in one of mine. I cracked the lens tightening the bezel and between the MCPCB thickness change and the new lens being thicker the bezel no longer threads down flush. Not a functional issue but disappointing anyhow. Still and excellent 1AA light for general use. Personally I like the LMH for a 1AA light. What UI are you looking for? Are you still with AA or do you want to go li-ion 14500?
Thanks for the info. You cracked the lens because the new MCPCB was thicker, I take it? How thin was the one you put in?
I assumed from your quote that you also swapped the driver. Is that correct?
I’d be fine using 14500 if it gave me access to a better driver/UI. I assume that’s the case because AA lights need a boost driver, right? And that will limit the driver and UI choices?
I’d like an AA/14500 light, as small as possible, with low moonlight modes and a reasonably high turbo/high, and a more customizable UI (Bistro, Crescendo, or even guppydrv). I’ve been searching for hosts to do a driver swap like this. Does what I’m looking for exist?
I’ve also investigated filing down a 15mm Mountain Electronics board to fit into a Lumintop Tool AA and going to 14500. Not sure I have the tools to file it down, but I’d try!
Will I end up burning out a 219b on turbo with a FET driver? Also, could I sneak in a 1.5mm copper MCPCB? Or am I stuck with aluminum at 1mm? Perhaps that extra half a millimeter is why buck91 ended up with a cracked bezel…?
Button can work if u use button top battery and hard/long spring on the tail.
Use copper mcpcb with dtp and reduce thickness to 1mm with sandpaper.
When using spandard mcpcb (1.5-1.6mm) you will just have a gap between the bezel and the body.
If you use a low current cell, the 219b might survive the turbo.
I did not swap the driver, I like the LMH of the stock. Plus its AA/14500 capable so I was happy. Yes, the new LED was on a thicker MCPCB and I didn’t realize I was tightening the bezel too hard cracking the lens. Definitely my fault and now the new lens is thicker too resulting in a noticeable gap (though using some thread sealer on the bezel threads makes it a aesthetics only issue.)
Ok, cool. If I end up going the spring route, using a small spring on the driver would work, too?
I’m a bit confused on how a thicker MCPCB would leave a gap. Wouldn’t it be an issue of less space, not more? I’m clearly not conceptualizing this properly. Thanks for taking the time to explain.
Jaxman uses a standard 16mm mcpcb with a thickness of 1mm in thier flashlights and they designed the flashlight for this thickness. They don’t sell it as a host, that’s why they probably did it. I received 1mm mcpcb with the set when ordering the host version.
I think the Convoy T2 is a better choice for us (modders). Think about it too.
It looks like a T2 takes a 17mm driver as well? If I put in one of those two drivers I suggested into a T2, I’d be going to all 14500, and it would work fine, correct? And the T2 takes a 16mm DTP MCPCB fine?
Re:219b in a T2 with a FET driver (as I’m planning), so you think my Keeppower 14500 1000mAh puts out just too much at 4A continuous to not fry the emitter? Perhaps I should get a Vapcell 3A?
Nop, T2 uses smaller MCPCB.
There is an edge in the top of the shelf, so it uses 14-15mm MCPCB.
Of course you can file the 16mm board to make it smaller.
And…it is also designed for 1mm thick boards.