AAA Ti Tool Pocket Clip upgrade
pic is a link to a review
I've had these built for a few months now. Some mechanical vaping mod.. mods.
CRX RV Titan I Triple Nichia 219C – Anduril – 18650 – E-Tail Sw – 2200lm.
CRX RV HammerHand Nichia 219C 4000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 740lm.
CRX RV Titan II LH351D 5000K - LD-A4 - 18500 - Halo Tail Sw - 1200lm.
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Also:
Absolute fine craftmanship mate!
Is that a Foursevens clip?
I always wanted to purchase their clips for my AAAs.
Yep, sure is.
Thanks!
Nice!
I built a Convoy S8 with quad Nichia E17A 4500K LEDs that I got from Virence. I wanted to keep the current to less than 7 amps so I got a Convoy 17mm Driver for SST40 which maxes out at 5 amps.
I encountered 3 new challenges with this build:
- Soldering the 4 wires to the non-DTP board was very tricky! One time when I was soldering a wire, another wire unsoldered and fell off. You have to be quick, precise, and not worry about imperfections.
- I used thinner silicone 24 AWG wire vs my normal 22 AWG, but it was still a very tight fit curling up all 4 wires into the shallow pill cavity (the S8 has the same pill as an S2). The bigger S2+ pill would’ve been much more accommodating, or next time I’ll get some 26 AWG wire.
- Convoy states “This 12 groups sst40 driver is compatible with lighted switch.” This is true, but I noticed the output greatly decreased with a small drop in voltage when using inefficient switch LEDs (like orange). I made a salmon colored switch (pink and orange LEDs mixed), but couldn’t use it because of this issue. So instead I swapped the switch with a green one that I had in another flashlight.
And in case you didn’t know, E17As are very fragile. In another flashlight I was building, the LED spacer gently bumped against one of the E17As and broke it. Went from a nice CCT to purple. So for the S8 I decided not to use a spacer – GASP! The 4 wires on the LED board do a great job centering the reflector and the silicone sheathing prevents any shorts. Plus now the aluminum reflector helps to dissipate heat.
When I put it all together, as expected, there was a small donut hole in the beam. So I lightly frosted the inside of the lens and the beam turned out great. And the flashlight still has some good throw.
The output and tint is awesome! Certainly some nice rosiness in the tint, but a little less than my 219B sw45k S2 triple at lower currents. At higher currents the E17As are rosier. I’m not sure which I like better yet, but not a bad dilemma to have.
Nice. Yeah, those are fragile led’s is bumped the “wrong” way. But nice tints. I have broken E21a’s in a similar way.
great writeup
congrats on your High CRI mod
thanks for the pics… there is one missing… lol
(the beam)
I like my pink sw45k, but I also like the whiter whites and great color separation from the less pink tinted E21a
definitely a nice problem to have
spoilt fer choice
I have similar skilz… lol
Left pic is at low current, left beam is 219B, right is E17A. The right pic is the same, but at high current. With my iPhone, this is the best I could do to show the difference.
NeutralFan have you tried to use one wire with insulation cut inside? This way I was able to use 22awg wires.
Great suggestion Chatika vas Paus! I’m not sure if my soldering skills are good enough to pull that off though.
Have you had any issues using the LED spacer? I’m afraid to put one on since it would be such a tight fit and the E17As break so easily.
Spacer is glued
Something similar for tool aa?
New AA Copper Tool mod from Cool White to sw45k
Before:
After:
==
Modded a AAA Lumintop Tool head to sw45k and captive reversible hatclip.
Love the copper and the sw45k 
After completing my first simple C8+ build (w/QLITE REV.A 8*7135 and XPL HI 5D), I wanted to make myself a new EDC light.
After getting my Jaxman E3 it was time to take it apart and fit it with an H17Fx driver, DTP MCPCB, and LH351D!
All the pieces (didn’t take a picture before installing the driver 
) ready to go! I used a dremel to sand down the inside of the retaining ring to make room for all those 7135s, trying to be careful to leave enough metal around the little grooves in the ring for easy screwing in/out.
I used my fly tying vice to hold the new MCPCB and put a dremel to it on one side to even out where it had been connected to its brethren during fabrication. I had accidentally sanded down the tips of the vise jaws in the process of using the dremel on the retaining ring but it worked! I then thought I would use a flat file to thin the DTP MCPCB to make the head assembly easier. I quickly gave up on that idea after 30min of filing and almost no change in thickness. I figured an extra O-ring would save me a lot of labor!
I reflowed the LH351D 5000k 90CRI to the DTP MCPCB, which surprised me by taking much more time than with a thinner aluminum board. But that makes sense. It works!
Soldered the driver to the MCPCB after cleaning and then adding thermal paste. My soldering leaves a lot to be desired at this point. Always room for improvement. In this case, a lot of room!
I had to use a small hand file to make a wider window on the stock butterfly spacer to fit around the new emitter. I then attempted to flat file the spacer to make it less thick. Of course I ended up breaking it expertly. 
So I grabbed a way larger spacer for a Convoy C8+ reflector and filed down its width and height to get it to fit and keep the reflector away from the LED and solder.
Due to the wonky spacer I ended up using, centering the LED was quite the task. After enlisting your help on the forum and tinkering for a while I finally got it centered “enough.”
The ultimate solution to that problem was a little DC Fix, as I wanted a nice floody beam anyway! It helped with the tint shift and looking at the slightly less than perfect LED centering. You can see the finished light with new(ish) not-quite-deep-carry-but-better-than-stock clip repurposed from an Olight Mini Baton.
Overall, this was a successful first mod and a great learning experience! I ended up swapping in a LH351D in 4000k a few days later for a warmer CCT which I find even more pleasant outside. The H17Fx is also fantastic! I love how customizable it is; I can get lower than 1lm all the way to “why is there so much light” and even make the bike flasher exactly as bright as I’d like. Truly wonderful!
Thanks for all your constant help here, everyone! This is a really wonderful and supportive place. Special thanks to MascaratumB for providing answers and lots support during my endless questioning.
More mods in my future soon!
outstanding first Rodeo!
congratulations 