Or a single squirt of Round Up lol…
I put Reeses Cups in the freezer so a cold Halloween might not be a bad thing .
Why doesn't the rest of the world get rid of the metric system ?
If the mind is the devils playground .. Does that explain the monkey bars and the slide inside my head ?
<< that's evil right there !
How very American of you 
Don’t you know that the US already is using the metric system?
They just like to convert it back to the imperial system.
Girls push!
Chemicals are quicker but could make you sicker and also maybe richer:
There are alternatives…plus after paying 10 billion you think they haven’t rectified the problem?
What ?? You have rectifying problems ?
No, only rectum problems
It seems to me like the actual force of the jet coming from a propane torch blows a lot of the heat out and away when you have it close to something. I’ve never had good luck with using them for weeds either.
Personally I’m going to keep using chemical weed killers. The studies on them, litigation that followed, and media portrayal of both aren’t really painting the whole picture:
Is nextool and nextorch the same company ? I cant find anything on nextool’s history or origins.
Hello, Im new to the forum.
Wondering if anyone who understands batteries can tell me if the 18650 from an Olight S2R Baton II Will work in the Manker MC13?
The Manker website just says:
Kindly note: This item has included 1x Manker high drain 18350 battery with Type-C USB charging port.
Kindly note: If you select ’yes’ under item option ’ with 18650 tube’, you can also use 18650 battery in your hand. We highly recommend you to buy high quality high discharge 18650 battery
I mean, I assume it will “work” but will it work properly? Are there any risks involved? Could I harm either the battery or the flashlight?
Any info is greatly appreciated, thanks.
Okay, so to clarify, your talking about using the 18650 tube on the Manker MC13 so they both use the same size battery?
I don’t have either light so I did some quick research on them. The Olight battery is a specialized unit that has both positive and negative on the positive end and is also a button top. I believe that it should work in theory on the MC13, but there is a very real concern that the spring on the head of the MC13 could bend or tilt and make contact with both the positive and negative on that Olight battery and cause a direct short which could be disastrous. I would not take this risk. I would just get a regular 18650 battery.
Thanks for the response and info.
The Manker MC13 comes with an 18350, and has an optional 18650 tube I have also ordered with it.
I cant be sure what size 18650 the Manker tube will accept yet. I ordered it a few days ago and its still in the mail.
The website doesn’t specify beyond what I quoted in my posted question above.
You say my olight battery has both positive and negative on the same end.
Is that what “dual polarity” means?
Maybe I could cover the end of the battery in electrical tape so only the button top was exposed?
The other end of the battery is still a metal contact.
I know the Olight batteries in the Warrior X Pro and M2R Warrior Pro are modified in such a way those flashlights cannot even use any other battery. However, I’m pretty sure my S2R Baton II can at least use other 18650’s but just cant charge them. So I’m not sure its AS modified as the ones in those two flashlights.
What actually made me even consider this may not work is the fact that the 18350 the Manker comes with is 10A, and my Olight Battery doesn’t say what amperage it is. (I don’t know anything about batteries and their ratings)
Manker’s website just says to use a quality high drain battery. It doesn’t specify to use a 10A Battery
Unfortunately the whole reason I chose the Manker MC13 with the 18650 tube was because I have two of these S2R Baton II 18650’s and expected to just be able to use them…
As far as battery amperages is concerned, I don’t know what cell is being used under the wrapper of the Manker 18350 or the Olight 18650.
There do exist 18350 cells capable of 10 amp continuous output. Cells are put on a special testing device that maintains 10A as the battery voltage drops from 4.2v to 2.8v and the cell temperature does not exceed it’s rated temp. This is not the best test to use simply because flashlights don’t usually maintain the same amperage. Most start off with high amperage and then it gets lower and lower. Still, it’s a pretty decent test to compare one battery to another battery.
Only high drain 18350 can maintain a safe 10A continuous output. When you move to the bigger 18650 cells, even a high capacity version can safely maintain 10A. Even without knowing the exact cell that Olight is using in their S2R Baton II I’m pretty sure it can safely maintain 10 Amp. So that is nothing to worry about.
I’m not sure why you want to risk a fire or an explosion when you should be able to buy an 18650 cell for between $5 and $10 USD. I see you’re in Canada, are you having difficulty getting batteries?
Thanks a lot for the response and info. I really appreciate it.
I haven’t really looked into buying any 18650’s as I’ve pretty much only been looking at flashlights that come with batteries.
I chose the Manker MC13 over the Acebeam E10 because I assumed I’d be able use one of the two Olight 18650’s I already have.
At least it still comes with the 18350.
Thanks for saving me from the previously unknown risks!
Edit: Looking up batteries it seems I’m in way over my head as well… I’m far too uneducated to understand all the different ratings and numbers. You can buy an 18650 with all sorts of different Amps and Voltages (I understand NOTHING about electricity, and frankly I don’t have the potential to ever understand it.)
It seems you have to be an electrical engineer or something to understand what I’m looking at to choose a battery.
And they range from $10 to around $40 for any branded ones.
Why don't we instead of using base 10, use base pi, so that pi = 10?
Do you have a battery charger of some kind?
For the MC13, Manker recommends a high discharge cell. Sometimes they will be more specific, but they are vague. I’d just get a Samsung 30Q. They are a great all around battery.
All lithium ion are going to be 3.7 volt nominal, 4.2 volt max. Some might be 4.3, but are rare so ignore those. The best brands and Samsung, LG, Panasonic/Sanyo, Molicel and Sony.
I know the goods stores in the USA but I don’t know of any stores in Canada. The store you buy from is a big deal. Some places sell fakes, so you want a store with a good reputation.
Try these stores in Canada.
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So why the US still uses the English system is simple. It is too embedded and can only switch gradually over time.
Products made in English are difficult to switch to metric, it is better to design in metric. So as companies make new products in metric and older products in English wear out and replacement parts are no longer needed, then the metric system will gradually become more prominent.
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Funny I worked at a small machine shop yrs ago that rebuilt nail making machines. They were made in China, everything was metric. I just switched the parameter in the CNC Mill to metric and typed in the metric values and out popped metric parts.
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Neither one is more or less accurate than the other as far as linear measurement goes from a machining perspective. I work in both worlds and I see more simplification in the metric system.
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Blame the media, too.
How many times have you seen an article that goes something along the lines of
The police followed the suspect 3.2km (1.98838781516mi) down the road...
Preheat your oven to 425°F (218.333333°C) before putting in the roast.
(instead of “2mi” and “220°C”, respectively) so they think by “going metric” they’ll have to carry around calculators and figure out things to 10 significant digits.
“Metric” is Big And Scary…