[Review] KDLITKER E6 (1 / 2 x 18650, XP-L Hi) ~ A quality P60 flashlight

One thing I have noticed with the E6 is if. You jar, shake it, tap it hard, or tap it hard on the counter it will change modes.

I would think stiffer springs would resolve this. With 2. Batteries it is more likely, I think because the more moving weight of those 2 vs 1 battery.

I will see if I have some stiffer springs or make a double spring setup. I did try stretching the springs a bit and it seemed to help, stretching a bit more would probably help. Or adding a copper spacer with nylon outside would tighten the tension on the springs helping this.

Still like the light though.

Great, thanks for the testing, sounds good!

.

Are you using a flat-top/short/unprotected cell, or a longer button-top protected one?

Maybe blob some solder on the end of one spring?
Or a magnet on the cell?

.

Also do you have any Solarforce lights/host to see if the tubes/threads lego with the E6?

Pretty sure they don’t LEGO
Tried the solarforce ring guard tail cap and it doesn’t work.
There’s a gap of almost a cm when you screw the head on the front end too - the light still works but the kdlitker when on a solarforce body the p60 globe moves around.
It might be amusing to try one of the silly solarforce attack bezel rings on the front - I will maybe give it a try later today after I wake up if I remember.

do you know if these hosts are compatible with p60 heads, tailcaps and bezels?

They aren’t compatible with solarforce stuff.
I don’t have any surefire lights to test them out with sorry.

I just bought the e6s, and I am getting ready to purchase batteries for it, the batteries that they sell On kaidomain are 69mm, would it be okay to get batteries that are slightly shorter (like the 30q buttontop) or should I try to shoot for batteries that are round 69 mm. Ty for any help!

I just purchased the KDLITKER E6 with triple (individual colour) XP-E drop-in (I chose red, blue, and amber options) and have to say that it is an amazingly good value for money light. About 50% brighter than the RGBW Ledlenser P7QC, but at 25% of the price. A review will be coming soon!

I’m thinking I should pick up the new 21700 version of this. Put myself together a high capacity EDC tube light. Looks perfect for that. I already have a bunch of drop-ins. Perhaps I will de-ano it too.

Just be aware that there is no tactical ring for the 21700 yet, do if you need that (I do to stop the light rolling) you might want to stick with the 18650 version.

I’ll probably just make some kind of lanyard that I can use to prevent it rolling. There’s no momentary on with the reverse clicky, so I don’t really need the tac ring for that. I wonder if the tailcap would take a McClicky?

Hello all!

I bought a KDlitker E6S (18650) with a far red (730nm) module for rat hunting :slight_smile:
I am wondering if there is a remote switch that fits this flashlight?

Thank you!

Regards

Christian

Will this tail cap accommodate a McClicky switch?

I checked one of mine the other day and it appears to have the same switch type (Omten 1288 looking switch) and pcb dimensions as a Convoy S2+. (i.e. small diameter.) I’ve got both the 18650 and 21700 versions.

Let me know if you want actual measurements.

Well I just tried and found that he thick threaded shoulder of the McClicky will not fit in the space of the original E6 cap.
I’ll search for a different style of fwd clicky.

Post up what you find.

I was contemplating just buying some Convoy S2+ Omten 1288 switches- fitted with the better springs for mine. I need to double check the diameter is okay first though. The springs Kaidomain use are a bit “lightweight” in tension and diameter. I’m not sure what brand the switch is either.

I am not sure either. But I have a few of the E6 21700 hosts ( maybe 6 total). I have a couple with KD quads (one 219B and One 219C) and one with an AE generic XHP50.2 (2500 claimed lumens). I have had no problems with the stock switches. In fact, they have been solid. I would think that they would handle about anything you would want to put into a P60 host.
I think heat will get you before the switches fail.

I did wind some @BlueSwordM BeCu silver plated springs into the stock switch springs and soldered them in bottom and top. I also wrapped the P60 drop-ins with copper stripping so the fit tight into the host.
Having said all of that, I am curious about what you find out on the convoy switches.
I fogot… the thread has been going a while, why do you need to replace the switches?

The stock switches work perfectly.
I just happen to prefer forward momentary switches.

Mainly due to the spring. I’ve found (particularly with the 21700 version) the cell isn’t held too firmly. It’s easier to do the combined switch/ spring swap and doesn’t cost much. Then I know what switch is in there too.

The spring on their triple XPL-HI drop in is too soft and a small gauge wire. I want to find a better spring for the driver on it.

(Both the triple XPL-HI and XHP50.2 drop in I’ve got will draw over 5 Amps.)

Well, I bought and received qty 4 of KDLitker 16mm FWD clicky switch. (part # 20467)
I attempted the swap just a minute ago … NADA.
I have 18650 and 21700 hosts … this fwd clicky switch housing is too tall to fit in the tailcap cavity.
This clicky switch housing is almost twice the height of the rev clicky.

So, no soup for me.

I did a similar forward clicky mod using the E6 P60 host, I think with these switches: http://kaidomain.com/KDLITKER-16mm-Forward-Clicky-Switch-Module

To accommodate the height difference, I used a metal washer to mount the switch in the back of the light, cut off the nub on the inside of the rubber tailcap, and filed down the button until it was flush with the surrounding housing when fully depressed. I may have filed down the button’s housing a little too, since there are some tolerances you can play within.

It ended up working quite nicely in my case! But it does require some fiddling around to get the switch feeling just right.