WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

I would want an IR thermometer, to track temperature… or some fancy autologger like I see in some reviews

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trust but verify

regarding the 2020 RRT-01:
what is the parasitic drain when the dial is turned to minimum?

the 2012 has a drain of 55uA (selbuilt)
the 2019 has a drain of 27uA (djozz)
the 2020 has a drain of ~28uA (pol77)

I believe that those values are due to the different working of the drivers.

The one of the 2020 version is to be used along with a tailswitch closes the circuit energy, hence preventing the drain.

The 2012 and 2019 will probably act more like an e-switch that doesn’t completely shut down the energy circulation.

So, in my head, the 2020 driver version is probably projected differently than the ones of the previous versions, which are supposed to reduce the drain once the rotary ring acts as the switch itself.

Also in my head, it doesn’t seem to make much sense to use the 2020 version with the tailswitch ON and then only use the rotary ring.

It makes sense to dial a “level” through the rotary ring and then just turn the light ON/OFF, acting as a single mode light. Having a forward clicky switch is even better (for me), as it allows momentary on for the lowest modes without full clicking :smiley:

the question has come up repeatedly from people wanting to know if they can use the 2020 model on standby

edit
turns out, thanks to a test by pol77, that the standby drain on 2019 and 2020 RRT-01 is the same, I dont know if there is working thermal protection in the 2020 as claimed

Yup, looking at those values, it surely would be a downgrade as the originals would be more suitable for the lights than the “new” one.

I am not familiar with the new lights, I was only absorbing and reinforcing (althought without data) what you wrote before.

It really doesn’t make sense using the light that way nor modding other lights with a different driver, be it due the thermal sensor or not :wink:

Thanks for the explanation on this :wink:

and thank you for starting a wonderfully informative thread

My first reason to replace an RRT-01 driver, was because I destroyed one when disassembling the light incorrectly.

I have also intentionally upgraded from a 2012 driver to 2019 driver, in order to obtain the Strobe function

this is a good upgrade

the 2019 light also claims a 950 lumen output, whereas the 2012 driver claimed 600 lumens

that might lead some of us to hope that the 2019 driver will be brighter. Im not sure that is true, as I think the main difference is in the LED… but I dont have solid data

but here are the driver options I have seen Jetbeam use:
2011, no strobe, driver label says RRT-01
2012, no strobe, driver label says Eye10
2012, yes strobe, driver label says Eye10 (serial number on body is different format)
2019, yes strobe, driver label says Eye10
2020, yes strobe, driver label says Eye10
2020, yes strobe, unverified thermal protection, driver label says RRT-01

driver feature progression
original 20212 rrt-01, no strobe
2019 model, yes strobe, possible higher output
2020 model, yes strobe, plus claimed thermal protection

I just ordered a couple of spare 2019 RRT-01 drivers.

Where did you buy the drivers?

Here is the partslist for a 2012 RRT-01 mod
includes driver source, and reflector source thanks to moderator007

more discussion about the 2019 driver

eyecandy thanks to Geuzzz:

Thanks for reminding me Jon.
I still have a nib 2012 version that I want to mod into a more throwy light. 2700k sst-20, reflector mod and 2019 driver.
Time to order some parts.

your mods are an inspiration:

if you get a chance to offer the links to the lens and O ring you used, would be appreciated

a beamshot on a wall would be welcome too :beer:

The oring was just a fat +–20mm one out of my junk parts box. IIRC I used this ‘’convoy’’ lens:

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1577614278.html?spm=a2g0z.12010612.8148356.13.3c2f42e11mvX8y

How bad is this parasitic drain on the 2020? Is the driver pretty much the same besides that?

welcome to the discussion oGnavigator

edit
the 2020 parasitic on standby is the same as the 2019 (thanks to new info from pol77 below)

at slightly less than 30 micro amps per hour, an 1100mAh 18350 should last more than 4 years (someone check my math?)

Measuring weak currents is not simple or easy. It depends who is doing it, how he is doing it and what equipment is being used. For instance, trying to use a cheap clamp meter for it, is - sorry for my bluntness - a joke.

Most of all, unless all of the above conditions are near perfect, comparisons between measurements from different people are worthless.

So, in service to the community that has helped me so much on my road to becoming a Torchaholic (I live in London, we call them torches here), here is my method and measurements.

I used a Calibrated Brymen BM869s and a fully charged KeepPower 18350 1200mAh. A rubber band held the battery and probes in place. I measured each light for 13 minutes, as when measuring weak currents, more time gives more accuracy. I took a measurement every minute.

The lights measured were:

RRT01 2019 model, with the driver it came with

RRT01 2020 model, with the driver it came with (verified 2020 driver inside)

TC-R1 with 2019 driver, sourced from Jetbeam

TC-R1 with 2020 driver, sourced from Jetbeam

Here is my measuring setup:

And here are the results:

As you can see, there is no difference in the drain current between the 2019 and 2020 drivers, both the ones that came inside lights and the ones I sourced from Jetbeam.

jon_slider, if you still want the 2020 driver out of your home, I will be happy to have it :wink:

Disclaimer: No torches were harmed during these measurements.

Thank You!

ok, I now disagree with my younger self and will keep my 2020 driver
thanks for the education

thank you for measuring both these drivers:

I recant my past opinion and will now profess the one true parasitic drain:

If someone was to leave a 2020 RRT-01 on standby (switch on, dial at minimum), the parasitic drain will be identical to a switchless 2019 model

about 2.85 years on standby with a 750mAh LiIon

Does the 2020 driver have higher output?
2020 Thermal step down, does it work to prevent damage to a freestanding light set on maximum?
Is a 2020 driver a beneficial upgrade for a TCR-1?

That’s good to hear. Thanks for making it simple for guys like me that have no idea what those graphs mean. So now I’m interested in the 2020 model with triple 219b sw35 since I’m willing to sacrifice a little throw for a little flood

Thank you for welcoming Jon_slider. I’ve learned the most from reading your older posts. I saw the Group buy for the og model. Do you think it will be possible to organize another group buy for the newest 2020 model? Does anyone already have experience modding the newest light?

If you are asking for someone capable of building a triple, take a look at Vinh’s offerings

For a triple 3500k 219b, I suggest the carclo 10507 lens, for a nice even floody beam with no central hotspot

the 3500k 219b can be purchased from Andy Zhu

So, I took one for the team and my friend jon_slider.

I did a runtime graph on my TC-R1 with 2019 driver and Nichia sw45k LED. The endeavour did not end well, as the temperature fried the battery, which is no more. I am one Keeppower 18350 1200mAh short now and UK stock seems to be 0, so I will try to order from abroad.
I then replaced the driver in the same light with a 2020 version, put in another Keeppower 18350 1200mAh and repeated the test. I believe the chart speaks for itself. I will be ordering some more 2020 drivers.

The 2020 driver DOES have thermal control. It still lacks voltage protection. The voltage of the battery was 0,38V when I removed it from the light.

thank you :slight_smile:
did the battery fail due to overdischarge, or overheating?
I do have a spare 18350 to donate to your cause, that just arrived from illumn

my impressions:
the 2020 thermal protection is allowing too high of a ring temperature
these lights are not safe to tailstand on maximum

I believe the battery failed due to a combination of both. I have overdischarged batteries during runtime tests before and the discharging is not the problem. It is the charging that has to be done carefully and properly, in an appropriate charger. The maximum heat did not kill the battery on the spot either, as it survived and started cooling off, before it failed. So I guess the combination of overdischarging the battery while it was so hot, killed it. The battery registers 0V and will not take any charge even when directly connected with a full battery, so it is completely destroyed.

Thank you very much for your offer of a battery for the cause. The battery shipping problem remains, so I will keep looking locally, but your kindness is heart-warming, as always.

I disagree with you on your conclusion. I believe the temperature thresholds implemented in this driver are brilliant:

The temperature threshold for pain due to heat is about 46C. This means your tissue will have to reach 46C for you to start feeling pain. The body of the light barely reached that temperature, without anything conducting heat from it. If you hold the light, it will never reach 46C, as some heat will flow into your hand, cooling it. If you leave it to reach 46C and pick it up, you will experience the slightest discomfort before it starts cooling off.

The ring will indeed reach 56C if the light is left to tail stand long enough, which is definitely uncomfortable to hold, but then you pick up the light, it will start cooling off gradually, as heat will flow from the body to your hand and from the ring to the body. It is safe to adjust the dial by touching the ring briefly, as the temperature differential of 56C to your body temperature is not high enough to cause such high flow of heat that will raise your tissue temperature to uncomfortable levels, from a brief contact.

So, unless you do it on purpose, leave the light to tail stand until it reaches full temperature, then pick it up and immediately and continuously hold the ring, there will be no problem.

On the contrary, this is the exact thermal regulation I would use to make the light thermally safe to use, without sacrificing too much of its performance, which is already not the highest. In other words, the thermal regulation implemented allows the light to operate at the performance limit the host can sustain, while at the thermal limit the human tissue is comfortable with (if used normally / wisely).

If they had implemented overdischarging protection in the driver as well, it would be nice! As it is, I will purchase more 2020 drivers.