Ah, I guessed (or at least hoped) so, I just wanted somebody to confirm this :)
Anyway, I looked at the available modes of that driver, and maybe it is not best for me.
I started to consider this FY emitter as a good candidate for biking light (easy for the eye, not white, but still many colours - also, not exactly the tint called cadmium yellow, but not far from that), so I postpone my initial idea of using it in a C8+, and probably, I'll go for an S2+ build with the 7 mode driver (10%-20%-30%-40%-60%-80%-100%), that is the most close to what I generally want to use. Maybe I'll add one or two extra 7135 chip on it to make it 1.4A or 1.75A, but not more. I didn't bother programming a driver for my desired output ranges yet. It has medium frequency PWM (I saw 700Hz+ in a review), but it is not like the cheapest drivers and it is not noticeable, except in extreme unfavourable conditions.
Hey Barkuti, no problem, it’s always good to hear your 2 cents.
Don’t know, maybe warm white is better. Maybe red… :nerd_face:
I’ve decided to start with yellow since I remember some cars use yellow anti-fog lights. Warm white is typical for old-fashioned bulb lights and for some reason somebody decided yellow will suit better.
But it may also be some other color/wavelength is better (e.g. green or red) but not commonly used due to interference with colors meaning.
Well, first I’m gonna build the light, then we’ll see if any difference can be spotted.
I would be happy with that as well
My wallet won’t, since i need to buy three new (matching) cells which i need to hold together.
Plenty of 18650’s though
Will the 4x18650 version require to use button top batteries? If so, I will look forward even more to seeing the 3x21700 version.
Why? Because a) button top batteries are harder to get and b) button top batteries often add significantly more contact resistance, especially those with cheap joint-welded buttons that tend to rust quickly.
My hopes are that these new lights have a different battery compartment with brass buttons on the positive poles of the head unit instead of a brass ring (which requires buttons on the batteries).
