Sofirn SC31 PRO, New Anduril Flashlight

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longuylander
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Fescron wrote:
GCM wrote:
Hi everyone,

I’m new to flashlight. My SC31 Pro has the second ring in the beam shot. Is it normal or defective?

What do you mean second ring? Can you post a picture? I’m guessing it’s just the way the reflector is configured (kinda trow/flood balanced)…

Are you talking about the thin ring on the outside of the spill? The way mine looks is that it has a spot in the center, then an area of spill, and outside the spill is another, slightly brighter ring that encircles the spill. If that’s what yours does too, then I would say it’s normal, as mine is that way too.

TimMc
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Same. The beam mostly looks ok. If I shine it on a wall one metre away, it will have a hotspot, a fair amount of spill, a dark circle a few inches thick, and a thin brighter circle similar to the outer spill brightness.

Lightfan
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GCM wrote:
Hi everyone, I’m new to flashlight. My SC31 Pro has the second ring in the beam shot. Is it normal or defective?

Others have commented about the ring they're seeing, which matches what I see in this image  from the 5000K version I just got today. Is the outer ring the one you're referring to?

 

how crazy is this
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GCM wrote:
Hi everyone,

I’m new to flashlight. My SC31 Pro has the second ring in the beam shot. Is it normal or defective?

Mine does this as well. Think it is mentioned in a review somewhere. Has to do with the reflector and the part of the head that holds the lens. Normal.

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I had to go white-ceiling hunting and crank it up to see it, but yeah, it’s kinda there way out in the periphery.

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Does this light have pads for flashing firmware, which will make it easy to update with a pogo pin adapter?

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A

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Cemoi wrote:

Does this light have pads for flashing firmware, which will make it easy to update with a pogo pin adapter?


Sadly no. I’m thinking about pulling out the driver once, attach some wires and a connector that fits through the hole for the switch. This would allow one to update the firmware by screwing off the switch bezel and pulling out the switch PCB.
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With the Sofirn SC31 PRO flash-light off and the LEDs in the switch turned off too there is a parasitic current of 0,04 mA and regular peaks of 0.23 mA.
See

Is that normal?

My current favourite: Fireflies E07 V2, XPL Hi V2 5A 4000K Neutral White, Matte Black

SammysHP
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Sounds normal to me. The microcontroller wakes up several times per second (and even in power save mode needs some current) and the ADC measurements for low voltage protection need more power (IIRC that’s done once per second).

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Whoada. That's some nice equipment!

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Tom E wrote:

Whoada. That's some nice equipment!

Haha! I was thinking the same.

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K

Nachtfeuerzeug
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Edit of #199: As many know, the A6 clip is great for clipping to a cap visor, too... I might be changing my clip preference!

Ok, this is a picture of all my favorite clips & EDCs with an SC31 in there somewhere. (L-R, Emisar, EagleTac, Convoy, A6 & Nitnumen)

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K

Sivy
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Here is my clip solution , It is a silver clip I had in the parts bin , it is exactly the same as the standard black clip but in plain stainless steel , Not sure where it came from? Maybe off another light or Banggood??.
Cut it down and reformed the end for a reasonable shape ,I quite like it ,would prefer a deeper pocket fit I guess , What do you think?

Nachtfeuerzeug
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That looks good! It looks like it may have been a Sofirn clip. 

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K

TimMc
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Tom E wrote:
You could though leave it like I have it to re-program. You can get access to the MCU this way. The FET is somewhat buried behinf the USB-C connector.

Is it possible to pull the driver down and attach a SOIC8 clip to update Anduril without removing the bezel for the reflector or desoldering?

I managed to remove the rubber switch cover with my fingers and then used circlip pliers to remove the switch bezel.

TimMc
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amishbill wrote:
Now it’s time for the scary part. Blindly jamming bits of metal into its brain. …

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1556068#comment-1556068

Notes for flashing the SP36:
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1558234#comment-1558234

Could the same be done with the SC31 Pro? Grad

I.e. Press down on the positive wire? Silly

SammysHP
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TimMc wrote:
Is it possible to pull the driver down and attach a SOIC8 clip to update Anduril without removing the bezel for the reflector or desoldering?

I managed to remove the rubber switch cover with my fingers and then used circlip pliers to remove the switch bezel.


You know, the usual way is the other way around: First unscrew the bezel, then remove the switch cover. Wink

Yes, it should be possible. I will try it with a pogo pin adapter when I have time.

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Does this light have a fet reduction in the firmware like the Emisar D4 with Nichia leds which has the fet limited to 80% if I recall it correctly?

Full fet for the SST40 seems a bit like overkill.

virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40

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Does anyone know where else can I get the 18350 tube? Sofirn shops seem to be out of stock.I messaged their CS and they said maybe 2 weeks before they restock.

I could just buy an sp40 I guess, but that seems excessive. Even if it is a good deal of a light.

My Lights (Updated: June 20, 2021)

SammysHP
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Ryzbor wrote:
Does this light have a fet reduction in the firmware like the Emisar D4 with Nichia leds which has the fet limited to 80% if I recall it correctly?

Full fet for the SST40 seems a bit like overkill.


Full FET is OK if the resistance of the circuit is high enough.

It uses the firmware of the SP36 so it should have full FET. I just checked it with the scope and it is indeed fully enabled.

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SammysHP wrote:
Full FET is OK if the resistance of the circuit is high enough.

Good to know. But I guess it’s not very efficient then.

virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40

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I'm not clear on exactly what the questions are above, but the stock wires appear to be ~24 AWG and are too short to pull the driver out and get a SOIC-8 clip on the MCU. My plan would be to replace them with longer 22 AWG's - think it should fit and allow the re-programming without de-soldering the LED wires. The switch wires appear to be just long enough to allow this, as shown below:

TimMc
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SammysHP wrote:
You know, the usual way is the other way around: First unscrew the bezel, then remove the switch cover. Wink

lol Silly

I tried to remove the bezel with circlip pliers first but I slipped and scratched the bezel. I then just tried to rip the cover out with my fingers and it worked. Innocent

TimMc
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darosk wrote:
Does anyone know where else can I get the 18350 tube? Sofirn shops seem to be out of stock. I messaged their CS and they said maybe 2 weeks before they restock.

Wait 2 weeks and buy from their official website? Big Smile

If you want an SP40… it’s a nice way of getting an extra 18350 tube.

TimMc
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Tom E wrote:
the stock wires appear to be ~24 AWG and are too short to pull the driver out and get a SOIC-8 clip on the MCU.

Thanks! I was thinking of trying to push a SOIC8 clip through the switch hole to reach the MCU as a backup plan to avoid soldering. I’ll probably end up swapping the emitter anyway… but it would be useful for those who just want to update/change Anduril.

To be able to pull the board down to reach the MCU, would you need to do the following?

  • Remove the bezel with some straps, a vice and heat
  • Desolder the 24awg wires from the PCB with the LED
  • Pull the board down by pulling on the spring
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TimMc wrote:
Tom E wrote:
the stock wires appear to be ~24 AWG and are too short to pull the driver out and get a SOIC-8 clip on the MCU.
Thanks! I was thinking of trying to push a SOIC8 clip through the switch hole to reach the MCU as a backup plan to avoid soldering. I'll probably end up swapping the emitter anyway... but it would be useful for those who just want to update/change Anduril. To be able to pull the board down to reach the MCU, would you need to do the following?
  • Remove the bezel with some straps, a vice and heat
  • Desolder the 24awg wires from the PCB with the LED
  • Pull the board down by pulling on the spring

This is close to what I did, but:

  • removed the bezel by clamping the head in a vise, cushioned by pine boards (no damage)
  • either I used my sticky blue gloves, or used a strap wrench - seem to recall it came off fairly easy, no heat used (sorry, I mod a lot of lights and lose track of details, and had no notes)
  • de-soldered the LED wires form the MCPCB
  • using a solder pick, pocked it thru the Batt+ LED wire hole in the shelf, try to feel I'm not sitting on a chip, applied steady pressure til breaking the glue bond holding the driver in
  • then pulled the driver down by the spring

You really can't fit the clip thru the switch hole, plus the MCU isn't right there to access.

Finished my mod today:

  • replaced the 24 AWG with longer 22 AWG wires (so I can re-flash without de-soldering)
  • replaced the stock 6500K SST-40LED and 17 mm MCPCB at 1.5 mm thickness, with a 5000K SST-40 on a 16 mm Noctigon (slightly thicker at ~1.6 mm)
  • sanded the shelf MCPCB contact surface out to 2500 GRIT, applied fresh MX-4
  • tossed the set screw used to keep the stock MCPCB from turning (Noctigon didn't have the cutout to support it)
  • re-flashed with Anduril2
  • 22 AWG bypasses on the tail and driver spring

It now measured 8.1 amps on a 35E cell at 4.20V. Max lumens and throw is about the same as the stock light did on a VTC5D cell. For the heck of it, tried a 25S at 4.17V and read 9.0 amps, only about 75 lumens higher.

The lumens on the 35E initially is 2310 (Tom E), 2040 calibrated. It drops pretty quick. It really is more amps and heat then the SC31 Pro can handle.

The 5000K tint is an improvement, least from what I recall...

 

TimMc
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Thanks for the detailed write-up!

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Would it be fair to say that the SC31 Pro isn’t easy to reflash with a newer version of Anduril unless you remove the bezel with force and desolder some wires to get access to the MCU?

@Sofirn: Please add pogo pads near the spring Innocent Tired

Tom E
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Yep! At least though you don't have to replace the driver and lose charging, like I've done on many other lights smile.

Totally agree - if Sofirn goes with an open source driver, they really should make the effort to make it flash-able, now that we have a method to do so with the pogo pins.

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I swapped the MCPCB out with one from an SP40 (i think), and a 219C 4000K. But I don’t think I’ll go harder; I was getting a little over 5A but that’s enough for me on that.

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