Most of us who already own many other flashlights care a lot more about LED type, color temperature, and tint than lumens or price.
Someone who specifically asks for SST-20 2700K JA3 is unlikely to settle for LH351D 5000K CRI90, and probably doesn’t care that SST-20 2700K outputs fewer lumens. The difference between 7000 lumens and 12000 lumens is barely noticeable, while the difference between rosy and green tint or 2700K and 5000K color temperature is very obvious.
If you can offer E12R with a variety of good LED options, you will probably sell more of them.
Here are some I would buy:
warm white XP-L HI, like XP-L HI 7A 3300K
warm white LH351D, like LH351D 2700K CRI90
Nichia 219B sw45k
XP-E2 Amber
SST-20 Deep Red
XP-E2 Far Red
CRI and color reproduction aside, the advantage over SST20 is that it is more throwy than the LH351D. The challenge with multi emitter lights is they tend to be very floody. By using SST20, you get increased throw but decreased lumens. The increased throw will possibly be more useful depending on intended use, and is my personal preference over LH351D. It is easier to diffuse a light, but you can’t make a floody light more throwy. That means the SST20 gives better flexibility.
My spoiled eyes won’t let my mouth call these Samsung LEDs high CRI. They’re great, probably. Just not what I want.
The light seems to be really decent, I’m just unsure if I’m willing and still able to perform a successful 12 emitter swap plus leaving the AUX LED’s untouched.
Yes it would, but I think it is something that manufacturers need to be more honest about. I know so many muggles who have bought a zillion lumen pocket rockets only to find out that after a few minutes they are dimmer than a $20 light from a hardware store.
Sustained lumens will depend on which emitter also along with the many other parameters. For example, SST-20 90CRI will sustain about half of the lumens of the XPL-HI. The driver can regulate 6A and output will lower once temperature exceeds the set threshold that is modifiable by the user. If you have your hands on the light while using and if you are in cool temperature with a breeze outdoor, it should be no problem sustaining the output at 6A.
Yep. Had 2 identical lights (not Fireflies), one was within a degree at room temp (both left untouched for hours to equilibrate), and the other was reading something like 45°C even though room temp was something like 21°C.
I just ordered my Nichia 219B E07 for the same reason. When it arrives, I will finally have all of their 219B lights except that little AAA light.
It looks like Fireflies will have headed and ruled the best emitter era and lights to date and maybe for a long time. 219B’s are EPIC EPIC EPIC and the way Fireflies used them was equally EPIC EPIC EPIC. It’s a damn shame those are discontinued. I literally want nothing more light-wise than for these emitters to come back out of retirement.
People have said the E21a’s are better but I just don’t buy that. From what I’ve read and heard, they are not as rosy, and their tint-shift once noticed, is crazy annoying. That certainly doesn’t sound like a better emitter at all
I don’t have one so it’s def not my personal opinion. In the research I’ve done, because I want the next 219B, I’ve found these complaints often. As I understand it, it’s more around the outer parts of the spill and what it is is some pretty bad yellowing.
The only light I saw mentioned that hid that a bit because that part of the beam was bouncing off the inside of the head, was Hanks D4v2 w/ E21a’s. Aside from that, the consensus is that the E21a just doesn’t have that Rosy pop of the 219B’s.
I may get the new Fireflies Nuv-mo w/ E21a’s just to know for myself, but at this point I already don’t expect it to be a replacement for my Killer B’s.
The E21A 4500k is almost as rosy as the sw45k 219b but it depends on the batch. If you want super rosy, you can mix E21A such as 2000k with 6500k and it will turn out much more rosy than the 219b sw45k.
Even with the bezel off the D4v2, you won’t really noticed the tint shift unless someone tells you to look for it. It is not severe like the typical Cree and Samsung emitters.
REALLY…I’ve never seen that mentioned in my searches. Great, now I’m gonna scour the internet endlessly for everything on mixed E21A emitters LOL
My understand (which can be wrong) is that the rosiest of all the Nichia’s is the 219b SW45. The lower or higher you go, the less rosiness you can expect. So I am surprised to hear that 2000 and 6500 will yield a tremendous rozay. That mix would ultimately yield a 4250k tint which does sound lovely.
But honestly, all (currently available) iterations of E21A lights are still very low lumen. So even if I got say the D4v2, I’d be going way down from the E07 or ROT66, heck even from the PL47. This is exactly why I LOVE Fireflies, they’re the only ones approaching Nichia’s the way they are (high output lights).
Well Thank you very much for enlightening me on this. Now I know what to do when I end up getting an E21A light.
Oh also,
The way I heard the outer tint-shift issue put that stuck with me, was that it IS minor and on the outside, until you notice it. But then once you do, you notice it always and can’t get it out of your head. Pretty much what I read verbatim in a few long discussions about Nichia’s.
