PWM is absolutely a no-no for a photography light. For this FF mule, it will not have PWM for the regulated levels so I will be switching over to this as my light for sure.
Of course, E21A 2000K is superior in every way except it is not 1800K.
Luminus Xnova Cube 1800K CRI90 is better than other amber leds with 1700K or 1800K CCT. I would try a Lee Zircon 803 or a Lee Zircon 802 filter to decrease DUV.
Not really, I have several Optisolis lights and I prefer the E21A tint much more than Optisolis. Optisolis is above or just on the BBL whereass E21A is just on or below the BBL. The DUV makes the most difference but ofcourse it is personal preference. Also the Optisolis is larger than E21A and much less output. E21A is a much better emitter for a high powered mule.
re tint: this is certainly a matter of personal preference. I hate anything rosy and much prefer daylight tint, but this is just me.
re output: I have used my optisolis mule daily and from my experience, it can safely run @300ma, or 1W, or 100lm per led, with short pulses twice that much. So in real life, the output in such a small light would be limited by thermal (anduril is known for that), regardless of the LED type
None of the E21A are super rosy like the Nichia sw45k. They are very neutral with no green at all. The 4500k E21A is the rosiest of the bunch I’ve seen but still no sw45k. Optisolis in comparison is more on the green side, but is closer to daylight. I prefer E21A tint much more than Optisolis. Also the Optisolis is much bigger and require a larger host but still much less output and efficiency. Though if you want to create a sunlight simulator, Optisolis would be the best option.
With this light being aimed as a photography light - a neutral/close to BBL tint would be much more useful for the target audience than a rosy or green tint.