These lights will have no beam at all - just 180° of pure flood.
interested in:)
Interested as well. Will any updates be posted in this thread?
Are there any chances for 2000K?
Will it charge with a USB-C to USB-C cable or will it only work with a USB-A to USB-C cable. Also, will it have a tripod mount hole? Thanks!
I’m wondering about Anduril version as well 
IMHO 21x optisolis would be a better idea for a mule.
my 6x mule is visibly better than an any e21a light I have tried
Not really, I have several Optisolis lights and I prefer the E21A tint much more than Optisolis. Optisolis is above or just on the BBL whereass E21A is just on or below the BBL. The DUV makes the most difference but ofcourse it is personal preference. Also the Optisolis is larger than E21A and much less output. E21A is a much better emitter for a high powered mule.
re tint: this is certainly a matter of personal preference. I hate anything rosy and much prefer daylight tint, but this is just me.
re output: I have used my optisolis mule daily and from my experience, it can safely run @300ma, or 1W, or 100lm per led, with short pulses twice that much. So in real life, the output in such a small light would be limited by thermal (anduril is known for that), regardless of the LED type
None of the E21A I’ve seen have been particularly rosy. They look very clean and neutral.
None of the E21A are super rosy like the Nichia sw45k. They are very neutral with no green at all. The 4500k E21A is the rosiest of the bunch I’ve seen but still no sw45k. Optisolis in comparison is more on the green side, but is closer to daylight. I prefer E21A tint much more than Optisolis. Also the Optisolis is much bigger and require a larger host but still much less output and efficiency. Though if you want to create a sunlight simulator, Optisolis would be the best option.
With this light being aimed as a photography light - a neutral/close to BBL tint would be much more useful for the target audience than a rosy or green tint.
Like I said before, the E21A is on or slightly below the BBL whereas the Optisolis is on or slightly above the BBL. Both are much more neutral than the typical Cree and Samsung 90 CRI emitters and with superior color rendering
Agreed, but on the other hand, photographer aren’t strangers to gels and filters to adjust the tint and color temperature of an auxiliary or fill light.
plus, optisolis has zero tint shift across the entire beam. an e21a has plenty of it, beyond, say, 120deg it is totally green. it is much less of a problem than with popular domed leds, but as soon as you notice it, it is annoying.
Optisolis has much more tint shift than the E21A. I have to use dcfix to smooth it out when used with reflector.
To add to my previous comment about tint shift, here is 2700K :
Bare e21a 2700K (50mA):
0° 2509.0 Lux, CCT = 2837K (Duv –0.0018)
12.5° 2433.6 Lux, CCT = 2825K (Duv –0.0016)
25° 2338.6 Lux, CCT = 2799K (Duv –0.0010)
37.5° 2138.2 Lux, CCT = 2766K (Duv –0.0001)
45° 1721.7 Lux, CCT = 2743K (Duv 0.0005)
57.5° 1280.8 Lux, CCT = 2706K (Duv 0.0013)
70° 801.9 Lux, CCT = 2659K (Duv 0.0022)
80° 404.0 Lux, CCT = 2645K (Duv 0.0026)
So it is highly dependent on CCT, maybe it is also the case with optisolis ?
Sure thing with a reflector it does, but here we are discussing the mule, and in a mule it has zero
actually, in warm leds the tint shift is by far less unpleasant than with neutral and cold whites. I had a mule with a 3000k e21a and was very happy with the tint. With a 5000k e21a it was no go for me
4500K please. Perfect!