Mine definitely has a couple of these “bugs”. It still has important long hold-click to moon, double click to turbo. Its only in the trying to operate the leds independently I get strangeness.
My headband is useless. The two loops are too thin. One of loops came damaged and it means that I can’t use it as a headlamp.
The 5000k beams are absolutely beautiful. Independently and together they have no green or yellow tint, and look great.
I could not get mine to charge c-c, could not get the power bank to work, though I am still testing
For my chargers with USB-C ports that would not charge the Wurkkos HD20 with a USB-C to USB-C cable, I used the following USB-C to USB-A adapter with the adapter plugged into the USB-C port of the charger and a cable with USB-A to USB-C connectors plugged into the adapter and the Wurkkos HD20. The adapter is uni-direction and the adapter's USB-C connector must be plugged into the USB-C port supplying the charge to work correctly.
I was hoping the same adapter plugged into the USB-C port of the Wurkkos HD20 and cables with a USB-A connector on the adapter end would allow me to successfully charge devices using the HD20 as a power bank when cables with USB-C to USB-C connectors or cables with USB-C to Apple Lightning connectors would not work.
However the Wurkkos HD20 USB-C port is not working very well for me as a power bank with either method.
I have not been able to charge any of my devices with Apple Lightning ports using a USB-C to Apple Lightning cable or with the adapter plugged into the HD20 and a USB-A to Apple Lightning cable. I have been able to charge a few but not all of my devices with USB-C ports with either just a USB-C to USB-C cable or by sometimes needing to use the adapter plugged into the HD20 and a USB-A to USB-C cable. I can charge all of my devices with Micro-USB ports using the adapter plugged into the HD20 and a USB-A to Micro USB cable.
I got my Wurkkos HD20. I was disappointed that neither my Pixel3 nor my Moto G6 can be charged using the HD20 as a powerbank. The main reason I brought this light was for this feature. The Pixel and Moto G6 are pretty run-of-the-mill phones in the US - covering high end to mid-range/low-range smart phone. How well is this powerbank feature really working? What percentage of USB-C phones is it really compatible with?
Edit: roostre, thanks for the input. Is there some trick to using an adapter to make USB_C to USB_C work? It’s probably missing the resistor that makes USB-C act like legacy USB device and just use 5V.
It’d be nice to have Wurkkos comment on this issue. It’s seeming like this does not work for most phones, and the claim of using it as a powerbank isn’t really living up to expectations.
I’m thinking of making a Type C - Type C adapter like this by modifying some Type C - Micro USB and Micro USB - Type C dongles and swapping some components around. This should fix all lights with weird type c - c cable charging behaviour I think
I have not had any chance to talk to Wurkkos yet. However, I took the liberty to do some editing of the manual in order to reflect the actual UI that Wurkkos has implemented into HD20. The revised parts are highlighted with red text on yellow background.
I have decided to not post a complete new official manual here before reconfirming with Wurkkos. Sorry again for any inconveniences you may have encountered by following the UI stated in the original manual. :-(
After using the Sofirn IF25, I am envisioning (but not expecting) a user interface that incorporates and merges the best features from both the IF25 and the HD20, but in the long run I would prefer Anduril 2 and the ability to easily customize and update Anduril using the light's USB port. I would use the Anduril 2 improved Muggle mode when I lend a light out.
The Sofirn IF25 has both warm and cool LEDs (this is different from the Sofirn IF25A which only has one type of LED) and it is impressive how the IF25 can continuously ramp between the two types of LEDs blending them together seamlessly using a "click followed quickly by a hold" and can reverse the ramping direction when a "click followed quickly by a hold" is done again within 1.5 seconds.
If this feature from the interface used on the Sofirn IF25 were adapted to be used on the Wurkkos HD20 a "click followed quickly by a hold" could be used to continuously ramp and reverse ramp between the flood and spotlight LEDs blending them together seamlessly or choosing one or the other.
The IF25 allows the user to choose either stepped or ramped brightness level changes which would also be a nice improvement for the HD20.
I would have preferred the following behaviors on the IF25 compared to the stock features:
1) If the stepped mode had used "hold for changing brightness and click for off" instead of "click for changing brightness and hold for off" so that both the stepped and ramped brightness level modes behaved similarly.
2) If the ramping brightness levels changed more slowly while near the moonlight level to allow for more control of the brightness level selected when you stopped ramping.
3) If the "quadruple click" for changing between stepped and ramped brightness levels (while the light is on) and for changing between "electronically locked out" and "not locked out" did not need to be done quite so quickly that it sometimes takes me multiple attempts to successfully perform.
4) If while in electronic lockout a "hold" activated the moonlight brightness level and a "click followed quickly by a hold" activated a low brightness level that was higher than moonlight.
I am seeing a lot of seasaw motion when I did my runtime graphs with both emitters on. Has anyone else seen similar results?
When either emitter is on solo, you get a nice linear non regulated curve.
Almost expected. It’s Sofirn’s ATR (Advanced Thermal Regulation) that oscillates like crazy. First noticed it on the SP33 v3. Keep it cool and it will be fine.
On the other hand: If you use lower levels, you get a hell of runtime from this light, even with an inefficient PWM regulated direct-drive driver.
Has anyone modded theirs yet? I want to swap the XP-L HD for SST-20 4000k 95CRI, but it seems like the bezel is glued. I can’t get it to budge at all. I’m only a novice modder, not sure where to go from there.
Good taste SST-20 is one of the best choices for a thrower flashlight. It can not output too much, but tint-wise, it is the best for thrower flashlights.
Before the emitter choices were finalized, I highlighted LH351*C* for better throw (C has smaller light emitting surface than D), but they insisted on the Cree crap. And they managed to choose the worse out of two. They mentioned XP-L, and common sense would suggest usage of XP-L HI, if it is meant to be a thrower, and not XP-L HD. While XP-L HI is not high CRI, it is at least good regarding tint shift. XP-L HD is not only just same not high CRI, but also much worse with the tint shift within the beam, and they chose that :person_facepalming:
My proposal for this headlamp was:
5000K LH351*C* for the thrower part of the headlamp
and
4000K or 5000K LH351*D* for the flooder part.
That would let both decent output, and a decent 90 CRI for the whole headlamp.
It is still not too late to make better decisions, I just hope, they will reconsider this.
Hold the phone! So…you use a regular C-A cable (that you might use to charge your phone from a charger), and you…add this thing to adapt USB-A end to USB-C so it fits the USB-C port on the HD20?
It will output max 1.6 A, but if the phone detects an old-style adapter (like which is emulated with the C-A-C adapter) it might limit charging to less than 1 A.
