Additionally to what has been pinpointed by Tom E (the “U” 4040 footprint is for both Boost HL and HX), concerning the color or output type note that those with a letter in their suffix are phosphor converted emitters with blue pump (white TG, yellow FY and pure green F1) whereas those with just numbers in their suffix are native pumped “monochromatic” light sources (blue 14, true green 13 and red 23).
Is the slicing height the distance between the PCB and the top of a washer sitting on it?
I.e. A recommended 1mm slicing height would simply be: place a “1mm thick washer” on the PCB around an LED and use it as a guide to slice the top of the dome off.
I only ask to rule out measuring from the top/square bit of the LED to the top of the dome. :student:
Yes that is TimMc, place a 1mm thick washer around the emitter just over the MCPCB, and use it as a slicing guide. You remove most of the dome, but still leave a protective layer on the led. It should sort of look like an XP-L HI emitter.
Hello Simon,
Since I modded my Z1 with a 4 LEDs 10W IR emitter … so now I’d like to “know” when it lighten up or turned off (without looking directly at the LEDs which emit a dim red when ON) : could it be possible to get a lighted switch that would fit the Z1?
Had to goggle the light to see a pic of the switch. Looks like the SS switch that comes on the colored-body S2+es.
There’s a translucent ring around the button that can leak out some light, so while it wouldn’t be bright, you could swap in a lighted-switch board underneath for a perfectly usable indicator ring.
Or drill out and rethread the hole to use the blue-lit rubber-capped switch (on the Convoy website).
Point being, don’t think there’s a lit SS switch that’d be a drop-in fit.