I do not understand the electronics enough to know why some devices work and some do not.
I just hope I do not destroy any of my devices testing which ones do and do not work.
I’m thinking of making a Type C - Type C adapter like this by modifying some Type C - Micro USB and Micro USB - Type C dongles and swapping some components around. This should fix all lights with weird type c - c cable charging behaviour I think 
Intrested in 3 where can i get
Coupons or i have to wait for group buy?
Thank you
I have not had any chance to talk to Wurkkos yet. However, I took the liberty to do some editing of the manual in order to reflect the actual UI that Wurkkos has implemented into HD20. The revised parts are highlighted with red text on yellow background.
I have decided to not post a complete new official manual here before reconfirming with Wurkkos. Sorry again for any inconveniences you may have encountered by following the UI stated in the original manual. :-(
After using the Sofirn IF25, I am envisioning (but not expecting) a user interface that incorporates and merges the best features from both the IF25 and the HD20, but in the long run I would prefer Anduril 2 and the ability to easily customize and update Anduril using the light's USB port. I would use the Anduril 2 improved Muggle mode when I lend a light out.
The Sofirn IF25 has both warm and cool LEDs (this is different from the Sofirn IF25A which only has one type of LED) and it is impressive how the IF25 can continuously ramp between the two types of LEDs blending them together seamlessly using a "click followed quickly by a hold" and can reverse the ramping direction when a "click followed quickly by a hold" is done again within 1.5 seconds.
If this feature from the interface used on the Sofirn IF25 were adapted to be used on the Wurkkos HD20 a "click followed quickly by a hold" could be used to continuously ramp and reverse ramp between the flood and spotlight LEDs blending them together seamlessly or choosing one or the other.
The IF25 allows the user to choose either stepped or ramped brightness level changes which would also be a nice improvement for the HD20.
I would have preferred the following behaviors on the IF25 compared to the stock features:
1) If the stepped mode had used "hold for changing brightness and click for off" instead of "click for changing brightness and hold for off" so that both the stepped and ramped brightness level modes behaved similarly.
2) If the ramping brightness levels changed more slowly while near the moonlight level to allow for more control of the brightness level selected when you stopped ramping.
3) If the "quadruple click" for changing between stepped and ramped brightness levels (while the light is on) and for changing between "electronically locked out" and "not locked out" did not need to be done quite so quickly that it sometimes takes me multiple attempts to successfully perform.
4) If while in electronic lockout a "hold" activated the moonlight brightness level and a "click followed quickly by a hold" activated a low brightness level that was higher than moonlight.
Wonderful headlight!
Does anyone love a portable and practical penlight? I hope to find person-one test my light.
I am seeing a lot of seasaw motion when I did my runtime graphs with both emitters on. Has anyone else seen similar results?
When either emitter is on solo, you get a nice linear non regulated curve.
Almost expected. It’s Sofirn’s ATR (Advanced Thermal Regulation) that oscillates like crazy. First noticed it on the SP33 v3. Keep it cool and it will be fine.
On the other hand: If you use lower levels, you get a hell of runtime from this light, even with an inefficient PWM regulated direct-drive driver.
Has anyone modded theirs yet? I want to swap the XP-L HD for SST-20 4000k 95CRI, but it seems like the bezel is glued. I can’t get it to budge at all. I’m only a novice modder, not sure where to go from there.
Good taste SST-20 is one of the best choices for a thrower flashlight. It can not output too much, but tint-wise, it is the best for thrower flashlights.
Before the emitter choices were finalized, I highlighted LH351*C* for better throw (C has smaller light emitting surface than D), but they insisted on the Cree crap. And they managed to choose the worse out of two. They mentioned XP-L, and common sense would suggest usage of XP-L HI, if it is meant to be a thrower, and not XP-L HD. While XP-L HI is not high CRI, it is at least good regarding tint shift. XP-L HD is not only just same not high CRI, but also much worse with the tint shift within the beam, and they chose that :person_facepalming:
My proposal for this headlamp was:
5000K LH351*C* for the thrower part of the headlamp
and
4000K or 5000K LH351*D* for the flooder part.
That would let both decent output, and a decent 90 CRI for the whole headlamp.
It is still not too late to make better decisions, I just hope, they will reconsider this.
Also, powerbank function does NOT work with my Pixel 4 when using a C to C cable, but it DOES work when using a C to A cable with an A-to-C adapter.
Hold the phone! So…you use a regular C-A cable (that you might use to charge your phone from a charger), and you…add this thing to adapt USB-A end to USB-C so it fits the USB-C port on the HD20?
https://www.amazon.com/Syntech-Adapter-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07CVX3516
Correct, this worked for me. Specifically, I used the A to C adapter that came with my Pixel 4. Obviously, I can’t guarantee it will work for you.
My Pixel 3a charges with the same kind of adaptor (so C-A-C but not C-C) but at well under 1A. Anyone got it to fast charge a phone?
It will output max 1.6 A, but if the phone detects an old-style adapter (like which is emulated with the C-A-C adapter) it might limit charging to less than 1 A.
Here’s my review of the HD20, with lots of images: Wurkkos HD20 headlamp review – Dave's Tech Reviews
All round it’s a great light. As others have mentioned, the choice of LEDs is a bit odd but works well enough.
Still haven’t got it to work as a powerbank with a C-C cable.
I tested it with a USB load and it can push out more than 1.6A but then the voltage starts to drop really low (about 4.3V at 2A or something)
Great Flashlight
would you please try triple click to change LED modes, the speed of LED change seems more like step dimming not like LED modes change speed.
LED modes change (spot light-floodlight—both) by
1: triple click
2: click + hold
Thanks for the feedback, and we have update to the engineer for checking again.