Mine are flat. Not sure someone else might chime in?
I got my D4V2 a couple of weeks ago. Great light 
Just a question on adjusting the temperature limit. How do I toggle between setting the temperature limit and setting the current temperature after entering thermal config mode?
Thanks
Current temperature is menu item #1. Temperature limit is menu item #2.
It’s recommended to not bother with that menu at all though. Just let the light settle to room temperature and do a factory reset. (loosen tail, hold button, tighten tail, hold button for ~4s until it does a bright flash) That should auto-calibrate the sensor and set the limit to a reasonably safe temperature.
The menu isn’t really necessary unless you want to raise the temperature limit.
“let the light settle to room temperature”
Thank you for this tip. Question: What if I do the factory reset while the light is hot? And conversely... ... ... What if I do the factory reset while the light is at frigid temperature? Which one of these two scenarios will raise the temperature limit?
The factory reset tells the light what temperature is “normal”. It then sets the limit somewhere above that, like a couple dozen degrees C higher. On most lights, it’s 24 C higher… because “room temperature” is assumed to be 21 C and the default limit for most lights is 45 C.
So if you want a higher limit without using a menu, warm it up a little before the factory reset.
Hi all,
Thanks TK for this review and for your wonderful UI. I enjoy very much my brand new Emisar D4v2 (with Nichia E21A).
I have played with the Aux LEDs, found this feature very nice but I noticed that:
- The red is much dimmer than all other colors. How come?
- I dont' understand the "Volts" function as described in TK's diagram. When I select it (releasing the switch during the next pattern after "Rainbow"), the LEDs are blue. How is this battery check function supposed to work?
- I get different colors for the same color selection, according to the brightness level selected, for a few colors only. Example: if I select yellow (almost orange in fact) when the brightness is set to High, when I turn the brightness to Low (3 times 3 clicks) the LEDs are dim green, instead of dim yellow. This happens for yellow-orange, cyan, and a strange color which is supposed to be white in TK's diagram, but is more a light rosish orange. For all these three colors in High mode, the LEDs are green if set to Low mode.
OTOH, High blue, red, green and violet stay the same if turned to Low.
I can see this (faulty?) behavior when circling through all colors in Low mode by keeping the switch depressed after a 3H: the green shows up once shortly (corresponding to the High "not-so-white"), then shows up again after red and stays on longer because it replaces the expected yellow-green-cyan sequence.
Do you folks see the same behavior on your own light(s)?
In low mode the output of the red LED is very low. The low level is defined by the hardware of the microcontroller and cannot be adjusted like the normal/high level. The strange color pattern you see is a consequence of this because red is much darker than the other colors.
I love that the red is so dim on low. It’s the only color that I can use when I have my light on my bedside table. Every other aux light color is too bright once my eyes have adjusted to the dark.
That’s why I’m wondering about red switch LEDs…anybody have one yet? I’m really curious about how bright they are.
same here, but that’s due to my sleeping partner who is ultra sensitive to light
Even if you don’t stare directly at them? I have my D4v2 tailstand on my bedside table so that the dim LEDs allow me to easily find and grab it, but I am absolutely not dazzled whatever the color, unless I point the light towards my face.
Re. the unavalaible colors at Low setting, I feel sorry because Cyan and Yellow are my favorite colors, but when set to dim they turn to Green. And leaving them on High is way too bright to have on a bedside table.
All colors of aux LEDs, except for red, will light up my whole room enough to get around. They will visibly light up the ceiling when tail standing on low. On my Ti versions with the lighted side switch’s I have to put the switch face down on the bedside table, or they will illuminate the room enough to bug me as well. I even ordered the warm version of the switch, which was better, but still too bright for sleeping once my eyes adjust. Red light is known to be the best for not interrupting sleep. That’s why most digital alarm clocks have a red display.
I got D4V2 with KR4 driver and can hear squeaking sound when FET is in use (constant or with strobes or lightning mode), wondering is it normal?
100% agree with this, I have to make sure there aren’t even any indicator lights on electronics shining when I go to bed or it lights up my whole room and I can’t sleep. Strangely, moon or artificial light outside rarely bothers me unless very bright.
I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?
Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.
There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.
I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It's beam's tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it's about the best beam/tint combo out there.
BEST ANSWER! 
Thank you for your answers!
Still thinking, but I’m inclining to 4000K, not 5000K, even though they both not ho cri and I can go to “more bright” 5000K
The difference in brightness will be completely unnoticeable. The 5000K might seem a bit higher output since higher color temps are a bit harsher, but even on paper they’re extremely close in output and the 5000K won’t actually illuminate anything better.
TK (or any owner) - that switch on the D4V2, can you describe it?
Is it similar to what Manker uses in the U1?
Theirs is a soft rubber dome (which can come loose),
over a beryllium/copper dome,
over a pair of contact pads.
If the dome does come off, the beryllium thing gets lost and the switch is done for
and because og Manker’s assembly, you cannot replace it, and probably could not find the right part.
How similar is it, to that?
wle.