FireflyLite E12R 12*emitters 15000LM 1x21700 Flashlight

Sustained lumens will depend on which emitter also along with the many other parameters. For example, SST-20 90CRI will sustain about half of the lumens of the XPL-HI. The driver can regulate 6A and output will lower once temperature exceeds the set threshold that is modifiable by the user. If you have your hands on the light while using and if you are in cool temperature with a breeze outdoor, it should be no problem sustaining the output at 6A.

You can calculate the approximate lumens using this simple calculator.
http://www.ledcalc.fonarevka.ru/?pct&LedCount=2&Imin=250&Imax=3000&Istep=250&led1=XPG2&bin1=R5&cnt1=7&led2=XPL2&bin2=V6&cnt2=7

My guess is around 1,200lm if they allow it to get uncomfortably warm, on anything other than XPL

It is up to you to calibrate and configure temp ceiling in Anduril.

Yep. Had 2 identical lights (not Fireflies), one was within a degree at room temp (both left untouched for hours to equilibrate), and the other was reading something like 45°C even though room temp was something like 21°C.

I am interested in one of these, what will the price point be?

Do you plan to also ship them with the 219b sw45k? I’d buy one of those, otherwise just a E07 for me.

I just ordered my Nichia 219B E07 for the same reason. When it arrives, I will finally have all of their 219B lights except that little AAA light.

It looks like Fireflies will have headed and ruled the best emitter era and lights to date and maybe for a long time. 219B’s are EPIC EPIC EPIC and the way Fireflies used them was equally EPIC EPIC EPIC. It’s a damn shame those are discontinued. I literally want nothing more light-wise than for these emitters to come back out of retirement.

People have said the E21a’s are better but I just don’t buy that. From what I’ve read and heard, they are not as rosy, and their tint-shift once noticed, is crazy annoying. That certainly doesn’t sound like a better emitter at all

Not true about the E21A tint shift. From what I’ve seen, it has less tint shift than Cree and Samsung emitters in general.

I don’t have one so it’s def not my personal opinion. In the research I’ve done, because I want the next 219B, I’ve found these complaints often. As I understand it, it’s more around the outer parts of the spill and what it is is some pretty bad yellowing.

The only light I saw mentioned that hid that a bit because that part of the beam was bouncing off the inside of the head, was Hanks D4v2 w/ E21a’s. Aside from that, the consensus is that the E21a just doesn’t have that Rosy pop of the 219B’s.

I may get the new Fireflies Nuv-mo w/ E21a’s just to know for myself, but at this point I already don’t expect it to be a replacement for my Killer B’s.

The E21A 4500k is almost as rosy as the sw45k 219b but it depends on the batch. If you want super rosy, you can mix E21A such as 2000k with 6500k and it will turn out much more rosy than the 219b sw45k.

Even with the bezel off the D4v2, you won’t really noticed the tint shift unless someone tells you to look for it. It is not severe like the typical Cree and Samsung emitters.

REALLY…I’ve never seen that mentioned in my searches. Great, now I’m gonna scour the internet endlessly for everything on mixed E21A emitters LOL

My understand (which can be wrong) is that the rosiest of all the Nichia’s is the 219b SW45. The lower or higher you go, the less rosiness you can expect. So I am surprised to hear that 2000 and 6500 will yield a tremendous rozay. That mix would ultimately yield a 4250k tint which does sound lovely.

But honestly, all (currently available) iterations of E21A lights are still very low lumen. So even if I got say the D4v2, I’d be going way down from the E07 or ROT66, heck even from the PL47. This is exactly why I LOVE Fireflies, they’re the only ones approaching Nichia’s the way they are (high output lights).

Well Thank you very much for enlightening me on this. Now I know what to do when I end up getting an E21A light.

Oh also,

The way I heard the outer tint-shift issue put that stuck with me, was that it IS minor and on the outside, until you notice it. But then once you do, you notice it always and can’t get it out of your head. Pretty much what I read verbatim in a few long discussions about Nichia’s.

Now E12R has been validated all the features of newest Anduril 2 designed by toykeeper . So far all functions work fine without any bug. Will keep testing more.

We did a bit adjustment to the current draws in the basic ramp mode.

Factory-reset Basic mode sets as follow:

- Low power at ~30mA

  • High power at ~ 6000mA

So in basic mode it is full current regulated.

Advanced mode is full funtion of Anduril V2

Great news, thank you for the update! I think LH351D will be awesome.

I wonder if the colored leds could be swapped for e21a so that there is a reasonable low lumen high cri flood?

This light really looks good for me :smiley:

I need this lamp with Samsung LH351D HI CIR emiters (4000°K) :heart_eyes:

The tint shift in the e21a is LESS pronounced that in any 219 emitter. And by a large factor.

But it is still not acceptable to me in anything but a TIR optics that can do proper color mixing of the outer green part of the beam and inner rosy one.

Unlike just an ugly duv of an entire beam that can be corrected by a color filter, almost nothing can be done to tint shift.

In practice, however, this is critically important if you often use your mule at short distance, so that the entire beam is just in front of you. If you have a powerful mule to illuminate large area, then the green (and fainter) part will be somewhere at the edge of your field of view and you never tell it is there unless you look for it.

But in the end of the day I dont see a reason to use anything other than an optisolis or sunlike in a mule. For 21 LEDs, 6amps is just 300ma/LED which sn optisolis can survive forever

I may have missed it, but is there an estimate of when this light will be available?

I’m interested.