I don’t have one so it’s def not my personal opinion. In the research I’ve done, because I want the next 219B, I’ve found these complaints often. As I understand it, it’s more around the outer parts of the spill and what it is is some pretty bad yellowing.
The only light I saw mentioned that hid that a bit because that part of the beam was bouncing off the inside of the head, was Hanks D4v2 w/ E21a’s. Aside from that, the consensus is that the E21a just doesn’t have that Rosy pop of the 219B’s.
I may get the new Fireflies Nuv-mo w/ E21a’s just to know for myself, but at this point I already don’t expect it to be a replacement for my Killer B’s.
The E21A 4500k is almost as rosy as the sw45k 219b but it depends on the batch. If you want super rosy, you can mix E21A such as 2000k with 6500k and it will turn out much more rosy than the 219b sw45k.
Even with the bezel off the D4v2, you won’t really noticed the tint shift unless someone tells you to look for it. It is not severe like the typical Cree and Samsung emitters.
REALLY…I’ve never seen that mentioned in my searches. Great, now I’m gonna scour the internet endlessly for everything on mixed E21A emitters LOL
My understand (which can be wrong) is that the rosiest of all the Nichia’s is the 219b SW45. The lower or higher you go, the less rosiness you can expect. So I am surprised to hear that 2000 and 6500 will yield a tremendous rozay. That mix would ultimately yield a 4250k tint which does sound lovely.
But honestly, all (currently available) iterations of E21A lights are still very low lumen. So even if I got say the D4v2, I’d be going way down from the E07 or ROT66, heck even from the PL47. This is exactly why I LOVE Fireflies, they’re the only ones approaching Nichia’s the way they are (high output lights).
Well Thank you very much for enlightening me on this. Now I know what to do when I end up getting an E21A light.
Oh also,
The way I heard the outer tint-shift issue put that stuck with me, was that it IS minor and on the outside, until you notice it. But then once you do, you notice it always and can’t get it out of your head. Pretty much what I read verbatim in a few long discussions about Nichia’s.
Now E12R has been validated all the features of newest Anduril 2 designed by toykeeper . So far all functions work fine without any bug. Will keep testing more.
We did a bit adjustment to the current draws in the basic ramp mode.
The tint shift in the e21a is LESS pronounced that in any 219 emitter. And by a large factor.
But it is still not acceptable to me in anything but a TIR optics that can do proper color mixing of the outer green part of the beam and inner rosy one.
Unlike just an ugly duv of an entire beam that can be corrected by a color filter, almost nothing can be done to tint shift.
In practice, however, this is critically important if you often use your mule at short distance, so that the entire beam is just in front of you. If you have a powerful mule to illuminate large area, then the green (and fainter) part will be somewhere at the edge of your field of view and you never tell it is there unless you look for it.
But in the end of the day I dont see a reason to use anything other than an optisolis or sunlike in a mule. For 21 LEDs, 6amps is just 300ma/LED which sn optisolis can survive forever
I used several mules with different emitters and for all practical purposes the tint shift at the edge is really not noticeable and will not affect picture taking. The beam is almost a whopping 180degrees wide and the tint shift is beyond your peripheral vision. The tint shift is beyond the field of view of even the widest ultra wide cameras.
I have no problem with Optisolis and Sunlike emitters as I’m sure it will have its own niche. But for the size it takes to accommodate 21 of those LEDs, we can accommodate probably twice as many E21A. Lumen Output would be many, many times brighter and run more efficient with the E21A.
I am sure that a light of given size would have a lot more power under the hood with e21a than that with those low power ones, thats pretty obvious. And for sure, for photography, when one needs just short flashes this power advantage is great.
I hope Jack will take all the time they need to optimize and tune the light before release. No need to rush. I will hold off on buying lesser offerings before this is available.
Sorry, I’m not quite understanding how the constant current buck driver will interact with Anduril.
Will the <6A ramps (while battery V > LED V) all somehow be handled by the buck driver (I’m assuming PWM given that it’s constant current?), and everything above handled by PWM on the FET driver? In which case, it would essentially act like a massive and more efficient version of a 7135 chip? And in which case, wouldn’t the lowest modes have quite poor efficiency from having to smoothly PWM all the way down from 6A?
I’m working with limited driver/electronics knowledge here, so please correct me if any of my assumptions are wrong.
You may or may not get an answer from them on this but here is another buck+fet anduril driver (lume1) from one of our members:
In the case of lume1, for batt V > LED V the buck portion takes over and has no PWM with max 3A current. Above 3A your only option is full FET (so no PWM here either).
