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Is it possible to have a larger diffuser that somehow covers most of the surface area of the battery tube so that it’s more like a lantern than a flashlight with a diffuser?

Thanks for these suggestions. Yes, that sounds and looks really good, especially with regard to the additional weight we need to face with a diffuser head. I will definitely take it into consideration with Wurkkos and their engineering.

Anyone have used this diffuser already? Will it drop easily if the lantern is "in motion"?

Another important point is to have an evenly distributed brightness in all areas of the diffuser, i.e. when using only one of the four LEDs (like deep red 660nm) it should result in the same brightness regardless from what side you look at the diffuser.

Hello Lux-Perpetua,

This is a very interesting design proposal!

Just I wanted to mention, that XP-E2 PC Amber is better than XP-E2 Amber regarding spectrum, and it provides a better mixing possibility towards both warm white and deep red. (+1: PC Amber is more efficient than monochrome Amber, and in terms of electrical characteristics, it is closer to similar warm white LEDs.)

What do you think?

im not knowledgeable enough to understand all the technical stuff, but visually, this just looks like t he BLF LT1 mini, no? can someone explain the technical difference in layman’s term

I really like the body design with no knurling, as Wurkkos has done with previous lights.

Suggestions:

A magnet would not be useful for backpacking (as opposed to car camping) due to weight increase and few backpacking gear materials being ferrous, so nothing to stick it to.
(Show me a steel tent pole!) Magnet could be removable.

An additional removable lightweight plastic/aluminium base would be useful.

Duv balancing is essential.

Regarding even light distribution, would an offset apex in top reflector which was rotatable be a solution?

Edit: or perhaps double the number of LEDs, with 2 of each opposing eachother, but would involve big change in design, unless you dispense of the TIR optic and make it into a mule, then LEDs be closer.

I like it. I purposely have not purchased a few LT1’s or committed to more than one mini because I think that this is an evolving space. And, having two Wurkkos lights, I think that they can pull this off. The hardest part is going to make the light look even (360 degrees) and balanced no matter the color tint. At this point, that is more art than science!

Amber and even PC amber will look orange, it will look terrible

that’s assuming a neutral 2700K, in reality it will porbably be above the BBL too.

Tint ramping offers the opportunity of bellow the BBL tints for a good portion of the tint ramp, but not if the LEDs are significantly above the BBL. Here everything from 2300K to 1000K will be above the BBL.

Isn’t there a 2200K XP-E2 ? that would be much better.

As a camper and avid lantern user (love my sofirn LT1s) I would love to see Wurkkos make a real lantern. This small lantern is worse in every way than just having a flashlight and a diffuser. A single battery just won’t cut it for lantern use and there are other issues with this product that are also in Sofirn’s product. Nobody in my mind has yet made a perfect lantern although all the ingredients are there. Here is what I would like to see in a lantern:

1) Tint ramping is cool in theory but not appropriate for lanterns. Let people pick their tint preference and run with it. The simpler the design the better.
2) Andruil is a bad choice for a lantern. Lanterns are used in campsites by mixed groups of people and in particular in the dark. They should have a SIMPLE interface that I don’t need to explain to everybody at the campsite before use.
3) Battery, battery, battery. Long life is king when you’re camping. A single battery won’t cut it. I’d like 4x 21700. Efficient components should be emphasized.
4) Battery bank functionality in a pinch would be amazing.

I’m interested in seeing how this project unfolds, though I’m not sure how useful an amber emitter would actually be on a light. I can’t think of many situations where I’d want a scene to look more orange…

Suggest making a lot and put me down for 3 of them :slight_smile:

I’d buy one. Maybe two.

Amber/Red would be great when the bugs are out bad.

Huh I’d love a light that could ramp from red to 5000k! Also please integrate a battery-check option? LED in the switch and/or triple click from off? Removable magnet would also be nice. And type c - c charging with powerbank functionality would certainly be appealing to me and others I think :slight_smile:

How about a mule with different CCTs of Nichia E21As and an included diffuser to act as a lantern? Mixing different E21As seem to lead to really lovely tints below the BBL.

New approach ;-)

Agreed. I have revised my design accordingly to something like that. A concave top reflector might be a good way but I am not sure if the reflected light will still be diffused as desired. So, I thought about placing a biconcave plastic lens into the inner part to achieve a more even distribution of the light into the diffuser. Please excuse my miserable drawing skills. :FACEPALM: However, I hope it makes sense. If not, please comment. Some more guidance would be awesome. :-)

I am not sure how that can be achieved. AFAIK, most flashlight manufacturers cannot preselect LED reels by their Duv or chromaticity bins. It would require handpicking and individual testing with a colorimeter to get that done. I don't think that's gonna happen. Maybe someone like Hank could do these extra efforts with a big surcharge in the sales price.

Yes, USB-C charging with reverse charging feature ("powerbank").

You mean an illuminated switch button? Yes, definitely. I was thinking about something like in the Andúril UI (7x click to cycle between off > low > high > heartbeat) using a red illumination. The green is way too bright in my opinion.

Agreed. A plastic bottom disc/plate to support the lantern's stability would be a nice alternative, as illustrated here.

Done.

I take up this challenge. ;-) As much as I like Andúril (and the candle mode is an important part of it), I try to find a simplier, more essential UI together with Wurkkos to make it also approachable to the standard customer, not only to flashoholics. With their IF25 tint mixing flashlight Sofirn has proven that they can implement a simple but useful UI. It does not necessarily mean that Andúril is ruled out for this project, though.

Since Cree LEDs are more and more hard to get and due to some mixed feelings about amber light (I still need to find out why :-D ) I have suggested another LED, Samsung's LH351B 2.200K 80CRI. Maybe this could be an interesting alternative to blend between 2.700K and deep red?

In some ways, yes it is quite similar. But if I recall correctly DBSAR uses Sofirn's IF25 for LT1M's basis, using a pair of SST20 2.700K and SST20 6.500K? I'm not sure what the latest update is, though. Moreover, this model here is based upon a mixture of WK30 and WK40 (prototype), it uses a different UI, a different diffuser design and a different selection of LEDs for a broader bandwith of tints (at the cost of maximum brightness). I do not mean to interfere with DBSAR's or Sofirn's plans. :-)

I agree with the removable lightweight aluminum/plastic base. Maybe I get to revise the design a bit into that direction. A larger lens with more LEDs will be a hard task because there seem to be only a few optics available to the factory. I am pushing Sofirn and Wurkkos to seek out for optics from Carclo and LEDiL but I do not know how easy it will be for them to get these.

Not an option unfortunately. :-( Sofirn seems to has given up sourcing LEDs from Nichia. Their suppliers seem to be unable to get these from Japan.

Have a look at this presentation about the preference for white light

Especialy, from one of the studies

What is precieved as not acceptable :

According to this, going directly from 2700K to red would even be better than doing a stop at 2200K.

Hmm....would it make sense to use...

1x 5.000K 90CRI

1x 4.000K 90CRI

1x 2.700K 90CRI

1x deep red 660nm

It would for sure gain more overall brightness in white light but also more accentuation on the neutral side of white light, not on incandescent warm light.

I'd suggest then LH351D 3500K 90CRI instead, which would make better mixing. 2700K (to be replaced) and 2200K is too close to each other in my opinion.

so, this could be awesome:

1x 5.000K 90CRI

1x 3.500K 90CRI

1x 2.200K 80CRI

1x deep red 660nm

A quick example :

Using measured data from 5000K wurkkos FC11 (a pretty bad tint), 4000K and 2700K from Sofirn and 5700K from convoy (a relatively good tint : Q1 bin), all with beaded TIR lens at 1A, which doesn’t give result too different from the IF25 optics.

4000K isn’t useful, I’d say 5700K to 2700K is best, 6000K could even be used. My CIE diagram doesn’t show lower CCTs sorry, but it goes to a maximum of –0.0110 duv around 1300K, which personally I would find perfectly good at these very warm temp.

So three colours might be good enough, one of them would be doubled, which I dont think would be an issue, the driver would be greatly simplified with 3 channels instead of 4.

Magnetic tail cap would be helpful for tipping issues if we didn’t want to use the supplied plastic base.