5050 3V is almost bereft of decent emitters (especially w regards to high CRI). XML2 in <3000k is about it. Hence me ripping it out and popping a 3535 mcpcb in, but needed a new centering ring, 7mm (but slightly loose). Either way, much nicer now,
Similar Forward Voltage is required.
I think you can try to put a slightly smaller LED on a slightly larger pad (e.g. 3030 on 3535). TIR optic and reflector might need to be considered case by case…
Success! My SC31 Pro now runs Anduril 2. Flashed without removing the driver!
It was surprisingly easy. First I removed the switch bezel, the silicone switch cover and pulled out the switch PCB to have a look at the driver. The wires are long enough. The MCU is located right in the middle of the big hole – how awesome!
So I made a little jig to update the firmware. A 4-pin pogo-pin adapter to contact pin 5-8 (MOSI, MISO, SCK and VCC). Without a matching PCB (0.05” pitch) this was the hardest part. My final solution was to use a ribbon cable (comes in 0.05” pitch), crimping the pogo pins onto the ends and glue everything to a piece of plastic. After the glue has dried, I covered everything in hotglue and heat shrink tube (that’s my usual way of making custom adapters). RST was hooked right into the leg and GND was the easiest: Just clamp it between the head and the battery tube.
Now that everything was in place I connected the programmer and my laptop, built the latest version of Anduril 2 with the SP36 config (which is used by Sofirn for all of their Anduril flashlights) and hit return.
Everything went well, so I could remove all wires and put the switch back together. Done, Anduril 2 update on the SC31 without removing the driver.
WELL MR LAH DEE DAH
Nice! That's pretty cool!
Btw it should also work with the usual ProgKey that fits Lexel’s drivers, Emisar etc. Four pins on the legs, the rest on the MCU. My first attempt was an all-in-one adapter with six pins, but I was not able to print such fine details with my 3D printer.
A little bit of silicone grease helps to screw on the switch bezel without rotating the switch cover and switch PCB.
Very nice.
I just got my 18350 tube for my Pro today. Using a Convoy S2+ clip, it’s now wonderfully sized and carried deep in my pocket. Because the light doesn’t draw a ton of amps, it still puts out its full power too. It will be a while before something replaces this light as my EDC.
I heard of him. Born in China. He lives down under now?
Nah, he’s married to Queen Lah Tee Fah…
Has anyone else done any output/run time tests on the SC31 pro yet? That one earlier in this thread made it look like it’s really a 250 lumen flashlight with a “2000 lumen” burst for a few seconds.
The turbo is just for short bursts, indeed. A flashlight of this size cannot handle the heat.
Just look at runtime graphs for other lightweight flashlights with too much power, for example the D4V2, even in Muggle mode:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/57232/1187
and here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/50872/9
Bigger Zebra here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/54840
Smaller Zebra here:
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/43710
Room temp runtimes without the light being held in hand are worse case scenarios. If usage is for a minute or two, then you could probably get away with 500-1000 lumens held in hand. Your hand acts as a thermal bridge to pull heat away.
Zebra flashlights are probably the best at thermal management, in the mechanical design, driver design, and firmware. Our firmware, like Anduril or Anduril2, is general purpose for lots of designs and has limitations based on the driver, LED's, mech design, etc. Zebra probably has about the best runtime graphs of all compact flashlights, meaning highest obtainable output over time.
Would like to see more run time graphs as well. However, I know my SC31 Pro is not a 250 lumen light with a 2000 lumen burst! Lots of stuff going on here and lots I am not certain about. However, last night I put said light into top of ramp an stood it on the top of the fridge while I proceeded to do dishes and clean the kitchen. I know thermal ramps can be subtle and it can be difficult to judge lumen by eye. There is no way that I was cleaning the kitchen on only 250 lumen.
Wish I had the equipment to do the measurements. Mine calibrated the temp pretty accurate and I think the thermal management is fantastic. My rough guess is that this light will do somewhere over 500 lumen till the battery goes. I think it does very well indeed for the size of the light. It shouldn’t throw 100+ meters either but I am certain that it does.
According to gchart’s test the pro held around 300-400 lumens for like 3 hours [Review] Sofirn SC31 Pro - now with Anduril & USB-C
. Definitely not as bad as my first impression, and considering all the other features this light has to offer, I may have one coming my way soon.
Of course better regulation could be had even in that size of tube light, like with the sp31 v2.0 or sp32a, which are basically the same size (in diameter) as the sc31 pro, but they can sustain over 500 lm for a few hours. Of course they are totally different drivers and don’t have the other features like usb-c, Anduril, so there’s always trade-offs.
Yep, gchart's chart looks about right: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/63701
Thermal calibration is the trick 
Good day blf as a newbie I would like to ask some help how to access the led button to correct the position of led button lights my flashlight is sofirn sc31 pro I just bought recently. I had only few tools a circlip plier and few precision screwdriver.thank u so much.
If not too much a detailed instruction w/ picture pls once again thank u.
Unscrew the bezel around the switch, pull out the cover.
It’s done.
Thank u sammy.
Anyone have both the 6500 and 5000 temperature sc31pro? I already have the 5000k version. Would the 6500k increase throw and lumen much? And is it really cold or neutral white?