[Update]Wurkkos dual LEDs 21700 Headlamp design Photos/UI update~

Good taste :slight_smile: SST-20 is one of the best choices for a thrower flashlight. It can not output too much, but tint-wise, it is the best for thrower flashlights.

Before the emitter choices were finalized, I highlighted LH351*C* for better throw (C has smaller light emitting surface than D), but they insisted on the Cree crap. And they managed to choose the worse out of two. They mentioned XP-L, and common sense would suggest usage of XP-L HI, if it is meant to be a thrower, and not XP-L HD. While XP-L HI is not high CRI, it is at least good regarding tint shift. XP-L HD is not only just same not high CRI, but also much worse with the tint shift within the beam, and they chose that :person_facepalming:

My proposal for this headlamp was:
5000K LH351*C* for the thrower part of the headlamp
and
4000K or 5000K LH351*D* for the flooder part.

That would let both decent output, and a decent 90 CRI for the whole headlamp.

It is still not too late to make better decisions, I just hope, they will reconsider this.

Also, powerbank function does NOT work with my Pixel 4 when using a C to C cable, but it DOES work when using a C to A cable with an A-to-C adapter.

Hold the phone! So…you use a regular C-A cable (that you might use to charge your phone from a charger), and you…add this thing to adapt USB-A end to USB-C so it fits the USB-C port on the HD20?

https://www.amazon.com/Syntech-Adapter-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07CVX3516

Correct, this worked for me. Specifically, I used the A to C adapter that came with my Pixel 4. Obviously, I can’t guarantee it will work for you.

My Pixel 3a charges with the same kind of adaptor (so C-A-C but not C-C) but at well under 1A. Anyone got it to fast charge a phone?

It will output max 1.6 A, but if the phone detects an old-style adapter (like which is emulated with the C-A-C adapter) it might limit charging to less than 1 A.

Here’s my review of the HD20, with lots of images: Wurkkos HD20 headlamp review – Dave's Tech Reviews

All round it’s a great light. As others have mentioned, the choice of LEDs is a bit odd but works well enough.

Still haven’t got it to work as a powerbank with a C-C cable.

I tested it with a USB load and it can push out more than 1.6A but then the voltage starts to drop really low (about 4.3V at 2A or something)

Great Flashlight

would you please try triple click to change LED modes, the speed of LED change seems more like step dimming not like LED modes change speed.

LED modes change (spot light-floodlight—both) by
1: triple click
2: click + hold

Thanks for the feedback, and we have update to the engineer for checking again.

In the video I tried to change the brightness with long click, but the LEDs were not in sync. Switching LED mode with click-click&hold and triple click worked fine.

copy that, thank you, we will update to engineer and update it on the next batch

Perhaps gets some fins on it instead of the shallow grooves, it looks very cheap. I mentioned magnetic charging because it frees up more head room for fins.

The Skilhunt H04 RC has such a nice look. That’s my demo video for my website.

Ditch the dual LEDs and make a single with a diffuser. There have been quite a few asking Sofirn for an SP40 V2 with diffuser but it never went ahead. Even a diffuser on a hinge like Skilhunt’s failed F model. Great concept but execution was terrible.

this magnetic charging is really cool

Yea, rip off Skilhunt host and sell it for 10$. Im in for few.

Here is the review I did of the light Wurkkos HD20 Review ($40, LH325D, 5000k, USB-C PD, 21700, Headlamp) The manual really needs to be updated to reflect the triple click to switch between LEDs.

Good review

Shows how Sofirn haven’t sorted their thermal regulation issue, this puts me off big time. I can’t understand how Sofirn aren’t picking this up when they’re testing the runtime, how is this missed, or do they simply not care?

See here, my proposal to represent the actual UI:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/62231/269

I will be checking with Wurkkos what parts of the UI will need to be changed in batch #2 or #3 and what can be kept. Once everything is (double-)confirmed, I think the (printed) manual will be updated.

I'm re-posting this here from liquidretro's review thread:

I just tested the HD20 I got yesterday from Amazon (Prime 2 days) on a freshly charged 40T and on turbo got as high as 6.6 amp tail readings on just the spot LED. Amps crept up the more I compressed down on the spring, using a clamp meter with the tail off. The battery fits very tight, so good spring compression on both ends.

My maukka calibrated readings was about 1470 lumens at 30 secs on just the spot LED (XPL HD) both LED's, tailcap on. Initially, the reading actually goes up a little, then didn't drop much at all. This is all indicative of the springs combined with a direct FET driver. I've seen this type of variation a few times before. It's also clearly in the ballpark for 6.6 amps, and the light got quite hot to hold in 30 seconds. So the amps readings, heat, and lumens reading all correspond.

Dunno, maybe I got a new version, or a buggy one, if everyone else got much lower readings on a 40T cell.

My mistake - the bug got me! Dbl clicked ON with prior selecting only the hot spot LED, and the flood LED turned on too, and I didn't notice.

I don’t have a clamp meter but using low gauge wire on my fluke I get 3.3 amps and 6.09 amps both on turbo. Tested lumens again and I can’t achieve more than 1520 for both on turbo