Just drew up a schematic:
And a quick test of the TTP223 configured in Locking (toggle switch), Active Low mode. I tested current handling as the datasheet says it can source 4 mA or sink 8 mA. It actually sank 32 mA. That should be plenty for this project but I don’t want to run it that far out of spec, so I’ll just use it to enable the CN5710.
Sorry for the rash of posts. Finally allowing my brain to have a thunderstorm.
Uh oh, now my mind is going down a rabbit trail. I was thinking the CN5710 would be easier to solder to if I mounted it on a PCB and that would give it a little bit of heat sinking.
Then I looked at my CN5710 driver and realized that it’s Anduril-capable. It wouldn’t be that much more difficult…
So… do I make what I imagine is the world’s first Anduril light with 5mm LEDs? Sounds like a bit of overkill, but that’s half the fun, amiright?
Do it! Agreed, that is half the fun.
Anduril it is!
Just prepared the driver. I had to strip the components of an old test driver (that got fried) first before I could reuse the PCB. Truly pulling things out of the scrap pile for this one. Since Anduril has LVP, I won’t need the protected version of the TP4056 board, so I’m using a “regular” one. I also shorted Jumper A on the TTP223 to configure at as “Active Low” instead of the default “Active Ground”. With our e-switch drivers, all of them I’ve seen we switches as Active Low. The “host” is pictured as well.
Next up:
Cranking through this. TP4056 board is now (at least mostly) filed down. Anduril has been config’ed, compiled, and flashed. This was done in Linux, but I’ve also got Anduril for the 1-Series working just fine in Windows as well.
Up next:
All of the parts approximately in their respective places, sans wires.
Also, just made the hole for the charging port. Drilled a couple holes and then opened between them with a knife.
Looking to see where the rabbit hole leads you/us 
Good work, keep it up
It is good to see this underway!
I love it. Anduril driver, 5mm LEDs, on-board charging, and a small tub of “Working Hands”
Current draw measured. In standby, the draw is a measly 7.5 uA. With LEDs at full brightness it’s 84 mA. With how I had the CN5710 set, I was figuring around 90 mA, so not too shabby.
Driver testing is complete. Anduril is fully functional! [WARNING - flashing lights!]
I love black magic and trying to learn a new language. Nice work. 
thanks Moose!
Next up:
I don’t know where you grow these ideas, but they’re cool!!! 
Your skills are impressive
Touch-switch, Anduril, 5mm leds, übercool!
Small update, but it’s an update I guess. I drilled the holes for the LEDs and dry fitted them. Not quite sure what I’ll use to glue them in place… UV-cured glue? Hot melt glue? I’m out of clear epoxy. I’ve got JB weld but that would look unsightly. Probably just the UV glue I guess.
Here we go! Build is finished.
One of the more difficult things that I didn’t anticipate is that this kind of plastic doesn’t take glue very well. Hot glue was a no-go. Original Gorilla Glue fell right off. Gorilla Glue Super (CA) Glue Gel didn’t do any better. I ended up having some success with DAP RapidFuse.
Gteat! Very tidy inside.
Nice work ! 