I just did a count, today’s dead bulb brings the total to 20. 20 bulbs x $20 each = $400 lost. I wanted to send them in and lay claim to that 20-year warranty they had, but the receipt paper has gone blank from 5 years worth of age as it always does. I’m probably screwed.
The old Cree bulbs have a CRI of 84 and a R9 of just 17. So the new Cree should be noticeably better since they are advertised with a CRI of 90. I stared into a Hyperikon to see if I could understand what you meant by the light not being smooth, but it looks like shear perfection on my bulbs. They are as evenly lit as the sun. You must have a different model.
Old style Cree bulb:
Have they even sold those bulbs for 20 years? You can probably make an argument based on this
That’s a great point, though I doubt their verdict will be up for debate. But the counter to that could be that I found them in a dumpster and don’t qualify. Who knows. I need start that horrible process of trying.
I warrantied my Cree TW bulb, called them, they sent me a new bulb. No receipt, they just use what’s printed on the bulb, super easy.
Oh, that’s great news. From what I read on the box a few years back, in sounded like I needed to mail them to the address on the box and hope for the best. Thanks for the info 
In many cases you get what you pay for. SunLike has great heatsinking, while I’ve heard many horror stories about Hyperikon and even widely known retail brands. Seems some of it has been sanitized or new versions have been listed, but I stopped counting how many pics there were of Hyperikon bulbs that had literally singed and/or melted their base on the Amazon product page when I first looked into them.
Tint/Duv is a completely independent factor from CRI/Ra. The former is how rosy or greenish the light is. Optisolis are actually a bit above the BBL in order to match natural sunlight as closely as possible, which is the goal of the product - this led to some disappointed buyers when Clemence sold the Optisolis Jet-u for example (because they didn’t fully understand the design/goal of the emitter, not that it was a bad product).
See post #14 and #18. Price, name recognition, and a 20 year warranty doesn’t guarantee anything.
Have you found any proof of your claims about review manipulation yet? Because as I recall the last few times you brought it up we just assumed they were offering a different high-power 100w replacement bulb that couldn’t take the heat, and therefore that model got discontinued. But there’s no evidence of this bulb ever having the issue you claim. Go have a look, because you can’t buy off all reviewers, and even trying takes time, so there should be proof. Show me proof.
You can’t have heatsinking without mass and/or surface area, and Hyperikon lists their bulbs at 41g each per the Amazon page. The Phillips, SunLike, Waveform and other brands I haven’t had any failures from (including in slightly enclosed fixtures) are significantly more massive than that, and often have extended bases.
First (only) two images on this listing: Amazon.com
That’s what I thought, you have never owned one and say they all melt but have zero proof of this. Seriously? I mean, didn’t you and me go over this at least twice in years past?
I’m… not going to buy a product with so many accounts of failure?
That actually wasn’t what I said. Insufficient thermal properties are leading to an excessive number of failures and reduced product life span for too many customers for me to have confidence in their reliability and longevity.
Please look at the link.
What you’re doing is a great idea, and I know this site is Budget Light Forum but frankly the base product is not something I have any confidence in and I think there’s ample evidence to support that compared to competing models. You should consider offering other brands bulbs that have been tested and vetted here with the coating IMHO. This brand is clearly saving on overhead big time somewhere and since I buy LED bulbs for longevity, it’s not worth the risk.
Maybe Hyperikon has improved newer models, but until I see evidence of that I will be suspicious of the specs (i.e. weight) and the numerous accounts of poor QC.
I’m using the GE reveal hd+ led in my house…do these suck or something?
sigh. Mass/weight has nothing to do with sustained heat dissipation. Surface area is all that matters once it’s up to operating temp. It seems to me they are transferring the heat out the metal threads to the metal and ceramic socket the bulb is threaded into. That adds needed surface area, and it is totally designed to take the heat.
Personally I don’t care if you have some imagined beef with this brand. But I do mind that every time I recommend them, you pop in to say I am recommending shit. You have repeatedly claim their are loads of reviewers that say they melt, yet when asked for proof, you are like, oh, they must have manipulated ALL the reviews. Geez. You have never owned one! I have been using them for years.
I’ve never got my hands on one, so idk. The reviews look fine. But they don’t tell their CRI rating, so that’s not a good start. Maybe BurningPlayd0h can give a psychic review.
90ish? What’s a good high cri bulb from Amazon and…will it matter between 90 and say, 98 cri?
I have the BR30 Reavel HD+ bulbs, they are of decent quality
Interesting, thanks. If you have the Duv reading, that would be interesting too.
That BR30 Reavel HD+ bulb looks remarkably like the Hyperikon A19: (Duv=–0.0009)
Here’s a Hyperikon BR30, but in 4000k because that’s all I have: (Duv=–0.0016)
I measured a half a dozen GE Reveal bulbs before and they usually have a DUV of –0.0035 or lower and R9 of at least 50. They have the best tint I’ve seen but they burn out the quickest. I’ve had so many died within days or weeks.
Thanks SKV89, I know you have been on quite the search for LED strip. I was wondering what bulb you like these days?
As a side note, I switched the title of the thread to Discussion so we can all throw positive suggestions into the ring.
