Backlight switches are not available for the basic aluminum D4V2
I wish they were, as an option which I would be happy to pay for. I didn't choose Al for its lower price, but for being more lightweight than the other versions.
Backlight switches are not available for the basic aluminum D4V2
I wish they were, as an option which I would be happy to pay for. I didn’t choose Al for its lower price, but for being more lightweight than the other versions.
I always thought this myself. I would never choose any of those materials over aluminum due to weight, but I would gladly pay more for the lighted switch option also.
I’d say if price is not a “concern”, the cu+ti weight must be close to the AL.. maybe? Albeit a different balance of weight, titanium is a decent degree lighter then AL, I believe. I’m sure someone who have both can verify this for us?
Backlight switches are not available for the basic aluminum D4V2
I wish they were, as an option which I would be happy to pay for. I didn’t choose Al for its lower price, but for being more lightweight than the other versions.
I emailed Hank and asked if a backlit switch would be an option on the standard D4V2 and his reply was that there were no plans to do it. That was a few months ago though. I’m holding out and not ordering anything else, because every time that I do the upgrades are always out minutes after I get my shipping notice.
I emailed Hank and asked if a backlit switch would be an option on the standard D4V2 and his reply was that there were no plans to do it. That was a few months ago though.
I've just emailed him with the same request, wait and see...
I emailed Hank and asked if a backlit switch would be an option on the standard D4V2 and his reply was that there were no plans to do it. That was a few months ago though.
I’ve just emailed him with the same request, wait and see…
I don’t have any plans to order another D4v2.
… but if they add the backlit switch to the aluminum version I would.
I’m about to the point where I’m going to order every light Hank sells with every emitter he has. I love my D4V2 and my 2000k KR4. I should do the math on that
Hank told me lighted switch on aluminum was a no go when I asked him last week. Really wish he would do it. Didn’t stop me from ordering another D4v2 with my K1 though…
I don’t have a full-copper D4V2, but I do have full-copper for a number of other lights.
Copper conducts heat so well the body tube of the light where your hand sits can get burning hot far faster than an aluminum tube.
The result is the electronics might be protected… but you may need gloves (or an oven mitt) to actually hold the light.
I noticed my fw3 copper got hot very quickly. My brass d4v2 does too, but with different emitters in my 3 lights of comparison it’s difficult to tell why or how much faster.
Ya my KR4 gets pretty hot cause I use it as my desk light. I try to keep the brightness at a level that is sufficient but doesn’t make the light get warm. Sometimes I neglect to do that and it gets hot. Not sure if that affects the life of the light but if so it just gives me a good excuse to buy another (:
EDIT: I just realized that Hank might not be able to access the images that we post. Some websites are not accessible from China, including imgur(.)com. Hank might not even be aware that you posted an image, because when you include an image in your post, and the website is not accessible, a browser might not give any indication that your post contained an image.
I’m really excited to see what happens with the d4sV2.. Will Hank rerelease all the colors again? Will he redesign it into a V3? Will it become discontinued to make way for a similar but upgraded version of itself? Will any of these three options I mentioned be available in cu..?
I’m really excited to see what happens with the d4sV2.. Will Hank rerelease all the colors again? Will he redesign it into a V3? Will it become discontinued to make way for a similar but upgraded version of itself? Will any of these three options I mentioned be available in cu..?
These are things that keep me up at night..
Put down the flash light and slowly back away. Unscrew one tail cap per night 1/4 turn and ween yourself off. We will get you through this.
These two beauties arrived yesterday (after only a few days of shipping)...
Please excuse the miserable image quality - I took some snapshots with my crappy smartphone camera.
Noctigon KR4 using 4x SST20-DR 660nm underneath a clear Carclo 10622 optic. At my request Hank installed a 7.5A constant current driver (default is 5A if I recall correctly). I was really impressed, even shocked a bit how bright this beast gets on turbo. Somehow, being blinded by deep red light felt totally different to my eyes than when using white light against a white wall. Anyway, 10 seconds later the head's temperature has climbed significantly, so I will use turbo wisely and for short bursts only. Maybe it's not a bad idea to manually set an ultralow threshold in Andúril's thermal config...just to be safe in case.
Noctigon KR4 using 4x E21A 2.000K underneath a frosted Carclo 10623 optic and the 5A constant current driver. The light beam is real eye candy, actually representing the quintessence of candle light. The first thing I thought of was testing the candle mode in Andúril - amazing is the right word to say. In comparison to the SST20-DR version this KR4 took an eternity to heat up that much. Maybe I should tweak thermal config a bit to see what presets work best. I removed the clips on both lights and feel very happy with the alternative lanyard rings Hank supplies with these lights. The matte black anodizing is just perfect, same as the overall quality of both lights.
Hats off to Hank and ToyKeeper for bringing us more and more seductive flashlights.
I’ve got a brass E21A 2200k and I can’t get the frosted optic out. Every other D4V2 is easy with a piece of tape but I can’t get this one out…
I had to use 3M tape. I pressed it on the optic for 20-30 seconds and then pulled up and the optic popped right out. Pull up on both sides of the tape so the force goes straight up. I think the thermal grease acted like glue on the optic legs.
I've just noticed these backlit switches, and would have loved to have this on my recently ordered Al version, rather than the front color LEDs.
This is apparently only available for the Cu and Ti versions, correct?
Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A
Weight (unlike size) is missing on all Emisar lights description pages, whereas it is mentioned for Noctigon lights.
Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A
Thanks lightdecay for your quick answer.
I wish they were, as an option which I would be happy to pay for. I didn't choose Al for its lower price, but for being more lightweight than the other versions.Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A
I always thought this myself. I would never choose any of those materials over aluminum due to weight, but I would gladly pay more for the lighted switch option also.
I’d say if price is not a “concern”, the cu+ti weight must be close to the AL.. maybe? Albeit a different balance of weight, titanium is a decent degree lighter then AL, I believe. I’m sure someone who have both can verify this for us?
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
Ti is 2/3 more dense than Al.
Oh how I wish the Cu was coated to keep that shiny finish.
Attempting to build a Convoy of Convoys.
Yes but think of the joy you’ll have every time you re polish it
good to know. thank you
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
lol
don’t tempt me, this is my excuse for not ordering one!
Attempting to build a Convoy of Convoys.
I emailed Hank and asked if a backlit switch would be an option on the standard D4V2 and his reply was that there were no plans to do it. That was a few months ago though. I’m holding out and not ordering anything else, because every time that I do the upgrades are always out minutes after I get my shipping notice.
Emisar D4V2 Sand XPL-HI V2 5D 4000K arrived!
Thats a beaut!
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
Ultrafire C3 2AA / Akoray K-106 / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W + H53c / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A) / Sofirn C01S / Skilhunt E3A
I don’t have any plans to order another D4v2.
… but if they add the backlit switch to the aluminum version I would.
I’m about to the point where I’m going to order every light Hank sells with every emitter he has. I love my D4V2 and my 2000k KR4. I should do the math on that
Is thermal performance any better vs aluminum
Hank told me lighted switch on aluminum was a no go when I asked him last week. Really wish he would do it. Didn’t stop me from ordering another D4v2 with my K1 though…
Short answer – Yes.
Not positive on that.
I don’t have a full-copper D4V2, but I do have full-copper for a number of other lights.
Copper conducts heat so well the body tube of the light where your hand sits can get burning hot far faster than an aluminum tube.
The result is the electronics might be protected… but you may need gloves (or an oven mitt) to actually hold the light.
I noticed my fw3 copper got hot very quickly. My brass d4v2 does too, but with different emitters in my 3 lights of comparison it’s difficult to tell why or how much faster.
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
Ya my KR4 gets pretty hot cause I use it as my desk light. I try to keep the brightness at a level that is sufficient but doesn’t make the light get warm. Sometimes I neglect to do that and it gets hot. Not sure if that affects the life of the light but if so it just gives me a good excuse to buy another (:
I’d love a D4SV2 in 2000K.
I would love green anodization and clear anodization options for Emisar D4V2.
Someone on Reddit modded a D4V2 and silver color looks great. It would look even better with an optional backlit switch.
https://ibb.co/mzpVMgk
EDIT: I just realized that Hank might not be able to access the images that we post. Some websites are not accessible from China, including imgur(.)com. Hank might not even be aware that you posted an image, because when you include an image in your post, and the website is not accessible, a browser might not give any indication that your post contained an image.
I’m really excited to see what happens with the d4sV2.. Will Hank rerelease all the colors again? Will he redesign it into a V3? Will it become discontinued to make way for a similar but upgraded version of itself? Will any of these three options I mentioned be available in cu..?
These are things that keep me up at night..Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
Put down the flash light and slowly back away. Unscrew one tail cap per night 1/4 turn and ween yourself off. We will get you through this.
These two beauties arrived yesterday (after only a few days of shipping)...
Please excuse the miserable image quality - I took some snapshots with my crappy smartphone camera.
Noctigon KR4 using 4x SST20-DR 660nm underneath a clear Carclo 10622 optic. At my request Hank installed a 7.5A constant current driver (default is 5A if I recall correctly). I was really impressed, even shocked a bit how bright this beast gets on turbo. Somehow, being blinded by deep red light felt totally different to my eyes than when using white light against a white wall. Anyway, 10 seconds later the head's temperature has climbed significantly, so I will use turbo wisely and for short bursts only. Maybe it's not a bad idea to manually set an ultralow threshold in Andúril's thermal config...just to be safe in case.
Noctigon KR4 using 4x E21A 2.000K underneath a frosted Carclo 10623 optic and the 5A constant current driver. The light beam is real eye candy, actually representing the quintessence of candle light. The first thing I thought of was testing the candle mode in Andúril - amazing is the right word to say. In comparison to the SST20-DR version this KR4 took an eternity to heat up that much. Maybe I should tweak thermal config a bit to see what presets work best. I removed the clips on both lights and feel very happy with the alternative lanyard rings Hank supplies with these lights. The matte black anodizing is just perfect, same as the overall quality of both lights.
Hats off to Hank and ToyKeeper for bringing us more and more seductive flashlights.
I highly recommend the 10622 clear optic for E21A 2000K and E21A 2200K. Throw is a lot better, and tint shift is a non-issue.
I did not try it with E21A 2700K yet. E21A 3500K does have noticeable tint shift with 10622 clear optic.
I’ve got a brass E21A 2200k and I can’t get the frosted optic out. Every other D4V2 is easy with a piece of tape but I can’t get this one out…
I had to use 3M tape. I pressed it on the optic for 20-30 seconds and then pulled up and the optic popped right out. Pull up on both sides of the tape so the force goes straight up. I think the thermal grease acted like glue on the optic legs.
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