The post was discussing the KY CSLNM1.FY. The mention of the SST-20 was just a comparison.
Also, for my photography, I need constant brightness as otherwise I would have to change the exposure for each photo, thus I need to brightness levels that won’t trigger the temperature control.
I rushed a bit with the answer. :-)
The CSLNM1.FY is a phosphor converted emitter, this means it must behave like the CSLNM1.TG standard white flat.
Now I understand your issue, the @#$% aggressive temperature protection. The solution is here: Convoy 17/22 mm SST40 Driver temperature protection removal. It involves removing the onboard surface mount NTC resistor. Once located, push it by one side with a hot soldering iron tip until it launches. Salute once done, LoL! 
Will this work with the Biscotti firmware?
I just get a nail clipper and cut it, it breaks clean off.
This is great. Hope it it will be available in M21C-U or L21A.
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+’s to order. 
I think more of the issue is that the driver’s current options are overkill for the amount of heat produced by the LED. It’s normal that at 100% there will be a step down, but not useful if 35% also steps down. Thus using a lower power drivers such as the 7135 drivers would have probably been a better choice for this emitter.
You can ask for one with the 7135 driver. I’m not sure what are the current instructions for a custom build due to price differences (if anything the 7135 version probably would be cheaper), but you can message Simon. Or if you need more power than the 7135 driver can provide you can ask for the SST40 ‘ramping’ driver, there are two adjustable modes but the UI IMHO isn’t the best and you can set it too high by mistake. Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. Ramping is also not useful for light painters, stepped brightness levels are more preferable.
not compatible with 7135 biscotti driver
Thanks. Is there any way I can light up my c8+ with Biscotii?
Hmm…I was hoping it would have 5 modes. Any chance there will be a driver with more mode options for the red?
Just receive mine today, L21A CULPM1…heheh cant wait to test it tonight
1st impression: dont under estimate of what appeared to be the brown cheap convectional box, bcos inside it, is a built-in-quality flashlight…WOW! I love the deep fins, the cut is what really impress me. Looks very complicated head design, make me stare at it for a while…
Compare head to head with FT03, obviously FT03 now look pretty much basics in design compare to L21A where head look really appealing, the glass glare purplish more than FT03, meaning L21A has a good anti-reflective coating. Although the head of L21A weight more than Ft03(balance), its function is more toward efficient thermal dissipation.
What LED in your C8+?
what’s the detail of the 5 modes?
This year will be the first ……warm white christmas….
This IS exactly what I was looking for my modded Infrared Z1!
Osram KW CSLNM1.TG. By light up I mean a way of finding it by night.
The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 - 120ºC (212 - 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don't think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period. 
P.S.: Considering flashlights are powered by li-ion cells 100 - 120°C likely is overboard. Maybe setting it at 85 or 90°C could be nice. Maybe.
Wed, 11/25/2020 - 12:57