Simon, any new info about lh351d 2700k and 3500k both cri90? Can you get them?
Also have you thought about making a 2.5A driver (like for CSLNM1.23) but with 12 groups and/or 4 modes?
This would be a good option for those who don’t want s2+ hotrods with 5A drivers.
I know you have 2.8A drivers with AMCs, but consider this suggestion too.
I have ordered LH351D 2700K,but not reach to me ,yet.
2.5A driver with 5 groups for KR CSLNM1.23 is in production , i didnt plan to produce it with 12 groups or 4modes.sorry
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+‘s to order.
The post was discussing the KY CSLNM1.FY. … I need to brightness levels that won’t trigger the temperature control.
I rushed a bit with the answer.
The CSLNM1.FY is a phosphor converted emitter, this means it must behave like the CSLNM1.TG standard white flat.
Now I understand your issue, the @#$% aggressive temperature protection. The solution is here: Convoy 17/22 mm SST40 Driver temperature protection removal. It involves removing the onboard surface mount NTC resistor. Once located, push it by one side with a hot soldering iron tip until it launches. Salute once done, LoL!
I think more of the issue is that the driver’s current options are overkill for the amount of heat produced by the LED. It’s normal that at 100% there will be a step down, but not useful if 35% also steps down. Thus using a lower power drivers such as the 7135 drivers would have probably been a better choice for this emitter.
You can ask for one with the 7135 driver. I’m not sure what are the current instructions for a custom build due to price differences (if anything the 7135 version probably would be cheaper), but you can message Simon. Or if you need more power than the 7135 driver can provide you can ask for the SST40 ‘ramping’ driver, there are two adjustable modes but the UI IMHO isn’t the best and you can set it too high by mistake. Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
You can ask for one with the 7135 driver. I’m not sure what are the current instructions for a custom build due to price differences (if anything the 7135 version probably would be cheaper), but you can message Simon. Or if you need more power than the 7135 driver can provide you can ask for the SST40 ‘ramping’ driver, there are two adjustable modes but the UI IMHO isn’t the best and you can set it too high by mistake. Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. Ramping is also not useful for light painters, stepped brightness levels are more preferable.
Simon, any new info about lh351d 2700k and 3500k both cri90? Can you get them?
Also have you thought about making a 2.5A driver (like for CSLNM1.23) but with 12 groups and/or 4 modes?
This would be a good option for those who don’t want s2+ hotrods with 5A drivers.
I know you have 2.8A drivers with AMCs, but consider this suggestion too.
I have ordered LH351D 2700K,but not reach to me ,yet.
2.5A driver with 5 groups for KR CSLNM1.23 is in production , i didnt plan to produce it with 12 groups or 4modes.sorry
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+‘s to order.
I got the accessory sample for lighted switch ,
But there are two shortcomings, the tail is not waterproof, the flashlight loses its inverted function.
Simon, any new info about lh351d 2700k and 3500k both cri90? Can you get them?
Also have you thought about making a 2.5A driver (like for CSLNM1.23) but with 12 groups and/or 4 modes?
This would be a good option for those who don’t want s2+ hotrods with 5A drivers.
I know you have 2.8A drivers with AMCs, but consider this suggestion too.
I have ordered LH351D 2700K,but not reach to me ,yet.
2.5A driver with 5 groups for KR CSLNM1.23 is in production , i didnt plan to produce it with 12 groups or 4modes.sorry
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+‘s to order.
Just receive mine today, L21A CULPM1…heheh cant wait to test it tonight
1st impression: dont under estimate of what appeared to be the brown cheap convectional box, bcos inside it, is a built-in-quality flashlight…WOW! I love the deep fins, the cut is what really impress me. Looks very complicated head design, make me stare at it for a while…
Compare head to head with FT03, obviously FT03 now look pretty much basics in design compare to L21A where head look really appealing, the glass glare purplish more than FT03, meaning L21A has a good anti-reflective coating. Although the head of L21A weight more than Ft03(balance), its function is more toward efficient thermal dissipation.
—
In search of the most ideal flashlight in town:
1. BRIGHTNESS
2. Durabillity
3. Design
4. Quality
5. Price$$$
Simon, any new info about lh351d 2700k and 3500k both cri90? Can you get them?
Also have you thought about making a 2.5A driver (like for CSLNM1.23) but with 12 groups and/or 4 modes?
This would be a good option for those who don’t want s2+ hotrods with 5A drivers.
I know you have 2.8A drivers with AMCs, but consider this suggestion too.
I have ordered LH351D 2700K,but not reach to me ,yet.
2.5A driver with 5 groups for KR CSLNM1.23 is in production , i didnt plan to produce it with 12 groups or 4modes.sorry
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+‘s to order.
I got the accessory sample for lighted switch ,
But there are two shortcomings, the tail is not waterproof, the flashlight loses its inverted function.
This IS exactly what I was looking for my modded Infrared Z1!
… Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I'll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. …
The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 - 120ºC (212 - 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don't think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period.
P.S.: Considering flashlights are powered by li-ion cells 100 - 120°C likely is overboard. Maybe setting it at 85 or 90°C could be nice. Maybe.
Wed, 11/25/2020 - 12:57
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Simon, any new info about lh351d 2700k and 3500k both cri90? Can you get them?
Also have you thought about making a 2.5A driver (like for CSLNM1.23) but with 12 groups and/or 4 modes?
This would be a good option for those who don’t want s2+ hotrods with 5A drivers.
I know you have 2.8A drivers with AMCs, but consider this suggestion too.
I have ordered LH351D 2700K,but not reach to me ,yet.
2.5A driver with 5 groups for KR CSLNM1.23 is in production , i didnt plan to produce it with 12 groups or 4modes.sorry
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+‘s to order.
Simon, I have noticed you now offer S2+ with red light. Does it mean that 2.5A red led driver fits inside S2+? Because earlier you said it was not compatible.
… Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. …
The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 – 120ºC (212 – 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don’t think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period.
True.
That’s why i remove them when possible.
Still looking for the ntc on the xhp35 driver and 4×18A driver though
… Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. …
The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 – 120ºC (212 – 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don’t think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period.
I think most people prefer not to burn themselves so 55-60C is probably sensible. A bit of testing last night showed that is seems to stabilise at around 25% after a few minutes on either 35 or 100% mode, so seems to be OK for my night photography use (as by the time I’ve gone back to my camera and focussed, set exposure, the output should be stable).
Simon, I have noticed you now offer S2+ with red light. Does it mean that 2.5A red led driver fits inside S2+? Because earlier you said it was not compatible.
It is marketed for red leds, totally looking like a buck driver. ∅17mm. Two A19T MOSFETs behind, these must be for reverse polarity protection. The sense resistor stage is gross, with 0.1Ω combined, dropping 0.25V at maximum driving current; this is its only fault, reducing efficiency.
There is no reason for it not to work with any other 1S emitter.
—
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
Simon, any new info about lh351d 2700k and 3500k both cri90? Can you get them?
Also have you thought about making a 2.5A driver (like for CSLNM1.23) but with 12 groups and/or 4 modes?
This would be a good option for those who don’t want s2+ hotrods with 5A drivers.
I know you have 2.8A drivers with AMCs, but consider this suggestion too.
I have ordered LH351D 2700K,but not reach to me ,yet.
2.5A driver with 5 groups for KR CSLNM1.23 is in production , i didnt plan to produce it with 12 groups or 4modes.sorry
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+‘s to order.
Simon, I have noticed you now offer S2+ with red light. Does it mean that 2.5A red led driver fits inside S2+? Because earlier you said it was not compatible.
Well, I am glad to hear that, but you said it was not suitable earlier:
Simon Mao wrote:
ferrat_val wrote:
Excuse me, do you mean that 2.5A red led driver cannot be used in a S2+ host? It is 17 mm wide, isn’t it? Will it fit into S3 host then? Because I need a small red light, and I have already ordered red osram on a 16 mm board.
it can be installed in S3 and C8,
but S2+ is not suitable
Light painting with the Convoy S2+ with CSLNM1.FY Really like this light, and good to see even more colour emitter options now available.
!{width:35%}https://i.imgur.com/K7kKteI.jpg!
… Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. …
The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 – 120ºC (212 – 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don’t think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period.
I think most people prefer not to burn themselves so 55-60C is probably sensible. A bit of testing last night showed that is seems to stabilise at around 25% after a few minutes on either 35 or 100% mode, so seems to be OK for my night photography use (as by the time I’ve gone back to my camera and focussed, set exposure, the output should be stable).
Also there are likely many customers buying lights from Simon that don’t know how hot a li-ion powered flashlight can get, especially when left unattended. I’ve seen several people on r/flashlight that wrecked their older S2s by leaving them on higher output for ceiling bounce, etc. Sofirn for example ran into a similar problem when they were getting bad reviews on lights simply because they were getting warm on turbo. I can’t imagine the consequences reaction if these lights were sold without any sort of thermal regulation or even just timed stepdown.
Just built 2, Green and Red (i don’t rember exact PartNumber)
Red is running on 2.5V driver and Green on 2.8A Biscotti driver
Now i need Blue and Amber.
Looking good.
For the 2.5V red light.
Did you have to solder the driver to the pill? Retaining ring?
Earlier in this thread Simon said the red driver wouldn’t be suitable for the S2+ pill.
Looking good. For the 2.5V red light. Did you have to solder the driver to the pill? Retaining ring? Earlier in this thread Simon said the red driver wouldn't be suitable for the S2+ pill.
I did solder the driver to a pill, common in previous versions (2,8A Star FW)
I did not even try installing retaining ring which might even fit O_O
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+‘s to order.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
You can ask for one with the 7135 driver. I’m not sure what are the current instructions for a custom build due to price differences (if anything the 7135 version probably would be cheaper), but you can message Simon. Or if you need more power than the 7135 driver can provide you can ask for the SST40 ‘ramping’ driver, there are two adjustable modes but the UI IMHO isn’t the best and you can set it too high by mistake. Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. Ramping is also not useful for light painters, stepped brightness levels are more preferable.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
2.5A driver for red light (VF 2.0-2.5V) ,input voltage 3-4.2V
not compatible with 7135 biscotti driver
Thanks. Is there any way I can light up my c8+ with Biscotii?
Hmm..I was hoping it would have 5 modes. Any chance there will be a driver with more mode options for the red?
Just receive mine today, L21A CULPM1…heheh cant wait to test it tonight
1st impression: dont under estimate of what appeared to be the brown cheap convectional box, bcos inside it, is a built-in-quality flashlight…WOW! I love the deep fins, the cut is what really impress me. Looks very complicated head design, make me stare at it for a while…
Compare head to head with FT03, obviously FT03 now look pretty much basics in design compare to L21A where head look really appealing, the glass glare purplish more than FT03, meaning L21A has a good anti-reflective coating. Although the head of L21A weight more than Ft03(balance), its function is more toward efficient thermal dissipation.
In search of the most ideal flashlight in town:
1. BRIGHTNESS
2. Durabillity
3. Design
4. Quality
5. Price$$$
What LED in your C8+?
what’s the detail of the 5 modes?
This year will be the first ……warm white christmas….
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
This IS exactly what I was looking for my modded Infrared Z1!
Osram KW CSLNM1.TG. By light up I mean a way of finding it by night.
The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 - 120ºC (212 - 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don't think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period.
P.S.: Considering flashlights are powered by li-ion cells 100 - 120°C likely is overboard. Maybe setting it at 85 or 90°C could be nice. Maybe.
Wed, 11/25/2020 - 12:57
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
More output levels, like 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%.
Simon, I have noticed you now offer S2+ with red light. Does it mean that 2.5A red led driver fits inside S2+? Because earlier you said it was not compatible.
True.
That’s why i remove them when possible.
Still looking for the ntc on the xhp35 driver and 4×18A driver though
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
Very excited for these. Would love to have one in a M3 if they can be run 1S.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
It is marketed for red leds, totally looking like a buck driver. ∅17mm. Two A19T MOSFETs behind, these must be for reverse polarity protection. The sense resistor stage is gross, with 0.1Ω combined, dropping 0.25V at maximum driving current; this is its only fault, reducing efficiency.
There is no reason for it not to work with any other 1S emitter.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I recommend saying no to Covid vaccine. Listen to your soul.
In fact, when switching from 10% to 35%, or switching from 35% to 100%, the naked eye does not perceive the change in red light brightness.
it’s suitable ,i add a link
S2+ with red light
Light painting with the Convoy S2+ with CSLNM1.FY Really like this light, and good to see even more colour emitter options now available.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
Well, I am glad to hear that, but you said it was not suitable earlier:
Love it.
What is the beam pattern like in S2+ with red light?
few of the groups in the 5 groups have a strobe. what kind of Strobe does it use ?
My reviews:
Thorfire C8s , Thorfire VG-10 , Sipik SK68 , Duracell 350 , Big L@rry , Mystery AAA
Just built 2, Green and Red (i don’t rember exact PartNumber)
Red is running on 2.5V driver and Green on 2.8A Biscotti driver
Now i need Blue and Amber.
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
Also there are likely many customers buying lights from Simon that don’t know how hot a li-ion powered flashlight can get, especially when left unattended. I’ve seen several people on r/flashlight that wrecked their older S2s by leaving them on higher output for ceiling bounce, etc. Sofirn for example ran into a similar problem when they were getting bad reviews on lights simply because they were getting warm on turbo. I can’t imagine the consequences reaction if these lights were sold without any sort of thermal regulation or even just timed stepdown.
Looking good.
For the 2.5V red light.
Did you have to solder the driver to the pill? Retaining ring?
Earlier in this thread Simon said the red driver wouldn’t be suitable for the S2+ pill.
I did solder the driver to a pill, common in previous versions (2,8A Star FW)
I did not even try installing retaining ring which might even fit O_O
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
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