Btw I dropped one of mine and it stopped charging, turns out the larger 1206 R270 SMD resistor cracked, replaced it and it’s working fine again.
Bit tricky to get the boards out, red wire broke off but it was still barely long enough to make contact after soldering it all back, almost bought 50ft of silicone wires lol.
Btw, is the button end cap supposed to touch the LED negative ground? There’s no continuity between the LED - and battery -, so I guess not (probablely using N-ch mosfets?)
It’s an electronic switch so it makes sense there’s no continuity between them? I’ll look at mine (I have two now- there’s a difference between the Boruit and the Slonik one I got off Amazon (for 2x’s the price of the Boruit) and see if that’s the case.
Reason I ask is that the solder joints are pretty close to the tail cap and touches if you (over) tighten it.
So I had to cut it flush and remove some solder
And for those wondering, the best tool to use imo, is a watch case opener
I have one of those chinesium one and it works perfect
I just need low , medium, high and off . If I was to be attacked it would be over before I could activate the strobe mode . How many people actually know what an SOS signal looks like ?
I think the average person would interpret those modes in this way.
You want to drive 40w led in tiny D10 ? But yes, this driver can be 6V or 12V. PCBs on the way, ill get it in week or two. I will write some short modding instruction how to transform D10 to ultimate hi-tech
O.K. Probably the last and ultimate Lume1 inspired, TPS63020 buck-boost, Anduril, 3V LED driver for this nice & budged friendly headlamp.
Driver can output 12W with full (4.2V) and 6W with completely depleted (2.6V) battery. Acceptable PWM . All mode stabilization . Eficiency up to 93%. Have reverse polarity and thermal protections. 1 or 2 color aux led support. Lowest mode could be lower , but its fine.
Its the most advanced and balanced driver i ever made . Mission accomplished.
PCB: