it’s suitable ,i add a link
S2+ with red light
Light painting with the Convoy S2+ with CSLNM1.FY Really like this light, and good to see even more colour emitter options now available.
Well, I am glad to hear that, but you said it was not suitable earlier:
Light painting with the Convoy S2+ with CSLNM1.FY Really like this light, and good to see even more colour emitter options now available.
Love it.
it’s suitable ,i add a link
S2+ with red light
What is the beam pattern like in S2+ with red light?
few of the groups in the 5 groups have a strobe. what kind of Strobe does it use ?
Just built 2, Green and Red (i don’t rember exact PartNumber)
Red is running on 2.5V driver and Green on 2.8A Biscotti driver
Now i need Blue and Amber.
Barkuti: stephenk: ggf31416:… Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.
I will probably just use it on 20% output most of the time rather than getting another one made with a different driver. However I’ll do some tests on how quickly and at what output the temperature controlled brightness balances. …The temperature protection thing is basically causing trouble without providing any significant benefit. By feeding these drivers with a precision power supply while installed on a pill with an emitter, I have noticed that the thermal stepdown starts right after providing power to the driver, so very quickly (PSU amperimeter reducing value). This is because the onboard NTC starts reducing its value very soon, after all it is in the driver which being linear dissipates any excess power and thus raises its temperature quickly (its expected behaviour). Since the temperature limit is 55ºC, it is pretty normal that current and power starts getting cut down almost inmediately.
In my opinion there is no need for temperature protection. If anything, temperature protection could be set between 100 - 120ºC (212 - 248ºF), to provide some long term protection to the device internals (driver, namely). This is because I don’t think the flashlight needs to protect its user. Whoever burns his/her hand using the flashlight should deal with it and learn the lesson. Period.
I think most people prefer not to burn themselves so 55-60C is probably sensible. A bit of testing last night showed that is seems to stabilise at around 25% after a few minutes on either 35 or 100% mode, so seems to be OK for my night photography use (as by the time I’ve gone back to my camera and focussed, set exposure, the output should be stable).
Also there are likely many customers buying lights from Simon that don’t know how hot a li-ion powered flashlight can get, especially when left unattended. I’ve seen several people on r/flashlight that wrecked their older S2s by leaving them on higher output for ceiling bounce, etc. Sofirn for example ran into a similar problem when they were getting bad reviews on lights simply because they were getting warm on turbo. I can’t imagine the consequences reaction if these lights were sold without any sort of thermal regulation or even just timed stepdown.
Just built 2, Green and Red (i don’t rember exact PartNumber)
Red is running on 2.5V driver and Green on 2.8A Biscotti driver
Now i need Blue and Amber.
Looking good.
For the 2.5V red light.
Did you have to solder the driver to the pill? Retaining ring?
Earlier in this thread Simon said the red driver wouldn’t be suitable for the S2+ pill.
Looking good. For the 2.5V red light. Did you have to solder the driver to the pill? Retaining ring? Earlier in this thread Simon said the red driver wouldn’t be suitable for the S2+ pill.
I did solder the driver to a pill, common in previous versions (2,8A Star FW)
I did not even try installing retaining ring which might even fit O_O
Perfect.
Thanks for the clarification.
I did solder the driver to a pill, common in previous versions (2,8A Star FW)
I did not even try installing retaining ring which might even fit O_O
I am new in building flashights by myself, could you please take a picture of how you have soldered driver to a pill?
I am new in building flashights by myself, could you please take a picture of how you have soldered driver to a pill?
I did solder a 8x driver to a brass pill for a S2 mod once, and it was a total mess :
As the pill takes all the heat, the solder won’t stick to it, I finally succeeded using open flame soldering, getting the whole pill enough heat that it could melt solder by contact … worked fine but the result is not pretty
Yeah, not so nice but it’s working
Much better than what I came up with !!
ferrat_val:I am new in building flashights by myself, could you please take a picture of how you have soldered driver to a pill?
I did solder a 8x driver to a brass pill for a S2 mod once, and it was a total mess :
As the pill takes all the heat, the solder won’t stick to it, I finally succeeded using open flame soldering, getting the whole pill enough heat that it could melt solder by contact … worked fine but the result is not pretty
I found that the solder on sticks to the top surface of the pill
Yeah, not so nice but it’s working
Thank you. I will try this myself.
ferrat_val you can solder to pills with heat guns. I for example own a 650W PG8018LCD, and it rocks:
Bought it here long ago (not affiliated).
A heat gun is in any case a very recommendable tool for electronics work.
Perhaps opportunistic, but do AliExpress coupons stack with discounts that Simon may give? I’ve got a project I’m working on, and am trying to do it in the most cost efficient way I can.
I recently got an M3 from Banggood in a flash sale not realising that a version with ramping (and charging!) had finally been released.
… do AliExpress coupons stack with discounts that Simon may give? …
Yes it does. Apply your coupons, select some alternative payment method you can discard and then proceed to message Simon. Done.
Thanks, will give it a try.
Edit:: hmm looks like I can only do credit card or PayPal. I might have missed earlier in the thread if you do PayPal and then just not pay….?