It’d be nice if you could mention the colour temperature of the LEDs
Let’s see how the buck driver actually outputs 6A constantly and how quickly it drops to a maintainable 3A constant current.
Why not 12x3=36Amps? 
The only thing similar is that FT02s should produce similar lumens under initial turbo output but is only available in CW 70CRI and reflector so the typical Cree ugly egg yolk or tint shift will be very noticeable. The E12R uses TIR optics and will have 95+ CRI options and WW/NW (though still to be listed). The FT02S uses the typical cheap FET with poor efficiency whereas the E12R uses a regulated and high efficiency Lume1 driver. The E12R will be more of a tool whereas the FT02s is more of a toy. Astrolux does not use high quality components whereas FF is willing to invest in premium parts.
Also the FT02s is MUCH bigger than the E12R.
Is this for certain? I’m looking, but I don’t see a statement from either Jackie or Loneoceans about it being a Lume1 variant. Just the first post stating it will be a buck driver.
That is awesome if true.
Hopefully it would be upgraded with reverse polarity protection.
The FT02s tube is also 28.3% fatter. But regardless, you are comparing the linear dimensions not the volume. For example a 20% increase in the radius of a sphere equates to 73% increase in the volume. Even if the 2D dimensions don’t seem that much bigger, they are much bigger when you see and hold them in person. The size increase of the FT02s vs the E12R puts it in another size class. The E12R will still manage to fit in many pockets but the FT02s will require very large pockets.
I don’t know the details besides it is a Loneocean driver. Jack said he wants to really up the level of his new lights and decided to go with the much more expensive driver among other improvements despite losing price competitiveness with the budget brands.
I’m sorry, but I can’t agree with you on that.
Is it really in stock as the FF website says and is the LH351D 5000K?
Arguing the size is pointless as it is subjective. Some people feel the D18 is pocketable while some feel a D4 is at the limit for being EDC. If you feel they are the same size class, then you are entitled to your own opinion.
The weight of the FT02s would help theoretically but due to the budget non-regulated driver, it will not be able to make use of the mass and sustain output very well. Even my MT09R weighing 650g gradually drops down to about 200 lumens in like 10 minutes. That’s the problem with these budget lights using budget drivers. The Olight and Fenix with their efficient regulated driver can sustain output far better than the budget brands despite turbo is being much less than the budget brands. The E12R with the Lume driver should be able to sustain output better than the FT02S despite the smaller mass.
The ft02s is like an ft03 with a slightly smaller head. The e12r is an e07 with a slightly larger head. See what I did there? 
Wouldn’t it have made more sense to go with a 6v boost driver? The MS03 is fully regulated and costs less than the XPL-2 E12R. I’m thinking maybe I should get that instead.
True but I’m still surprised it costs more than the MS03. I can get the MS03 for $110.45 so $17.55 cheaper. I guess I’ll just wait for a compact 4x XHP50.2 light.
But why can’t it cost more than the MS03? More emitters, a driver design that’s less prone to fail, way better tint and auxiliary LEDs.
Immalent lights are not particularly well built and “MS03 flashlight problems” is the second most searched keyword for it. Peak lumens are meaningless when compared on paper, a 5,000lm thrower can look brighter than a 13,000lm flooder.
Beam shape and tint aside it’s actually more comparable than you think. 3x XHP 70.2 = 12 dies and boost vs buck driver.
The E12R isn’t going to be throwy either (not even a little) so best to get rid of those dreams now.
Granted I would never buy the Imalent personally on paper it has some similarities.
Judging from the pictures this TIR is probably much better than the rot66.
That is with CW SST-20 or Osram and may be slightly overrated too. Also, ROT66 has 3 batteries and 15 degree optic vs 1 battery (albeit higher drain, still not as good as 3x18650) and 30 degree optic.
Again, this light is not a thrower regardless of LED choice.
I think those two pictures are misleading (not on you, just not meant to be compared I guess?) Holding at different angles and one being held with two fingers Maes it look much smaller.
I think of it as comparing a C8 to a KR1… same class? I don’t know? meaning it is subjective and how do you view flashlight carrying… I think once something is not pocket carry-able (in jeans) then it is a different class. thats just me. although I don’t seen either of these being carried on a clip in my jeans, they both look too big for that. the X9L is the max size I would or will carry in my jeans pocket.
Yep that’s the biggest issue I have with these non regulated drivers. I use my lights for long durations and sometimes tailstand them as work lights. Here are some comparisons between large lights with unregulated drivers vs small lights with regulated drivers.
FT03S SBT90.2 weighing 298g stabilizes at 141 lumens
Emisar D18 SST20 4000K weighing 343g drops to about 500 lumens
Olight Warrior Mini with SST40 weighing a miniscule 55.8g stabilizes at 530 lumens for almost 4 hours!
Astrolux FT03 XHP50.2 weighing 295g maintains average 500 lumens even with fan cooling for 2 hours on a 21700. This is about half the runtime of the 18650 Olight Warrior Mini despite the Olight uses a less efficient emitter and less battery capacity. That’s the beauty of having a high quality driver.
Lumintop FW21 Pro 3xXHP50.2 weighing 120g stabilizes at 200 lumens with fan cooling.
Despite the Olight Warrior Mini weighing a small fraction of the other lights, have the least surface area (most important for shedding heat), and uses a less efficient emitter than the rest, it sustains higher output and is much more efficient (area under the curve) than the rest. I just wish more flashlight fans understand the importance of having a good driver and not simply buy based on the lumen output that last a few seconds.
MS03 also doesn’t have a high current USB-C charge built-in