gChart's Hand Made Class, 8th Annual BLF/OL contest [Finished!]

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gchart
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gChart's Hand Made Class, 8th Annual BLF/OL contest [Finished!]

Yup, this is it for now. I really have no idea what I’m building. Only that I will build something. Probably not as elaborate this year.

Edited by: gchart on 12/27/2020 - 10:05
Scallywag
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Subscribed. Excited to see what you come up with.

ChibiM
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Love to see what you will make

 

MascaratumB
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Waiting for the show! Cool

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Good to see you in the comp gchart Thumbs Up

  

gchart
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I’ve got a pile of parts that I picked up on a whim. A bunch of atmega328p dev boards, 0.96” OLED screens, time-of-flight sensors, gesture sensors, touch sensors, neopixel rings, USB charging modules, various MCUs, etc… What to do?

At first I was thinking something elaborate combining an atmega328p for the brains, neopixel ring for visuals, OLED display for feedback, and the gesture sensors for control. But I don’t know if I want to go there. It could be a fun build, but it’s probably something I’d never use.

Another less-flashy idea is a touch-enabled lantern or desk lamp. I may even try to integrate the OLED display and/or charging. Who knows… Too many ideas!

Scallywag
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Battery powered portable lamp with a wireless charger in the base. Then charge last year’s light from this year’s Wink

OLED indicator of battery charge and the current output of the charger?

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Looking forward to your build, gchart. Cool

Touch, OLED display, charging? Don’t tell us this won’t be elaborate… Wink

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gchart wrote:
Who knows… Too many ideas!

Just pick one idea and run with it. There’s always next years comp Wink

  

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Been so busy lately that I haven’t really done much with the competition. But I think I’ve finally settled on an idea… I think.

Last year’s design was pretty elaborate. I made custom PCBs, I bought brass pieces and the wireless coil. This year I’m contemplating going in the opposite direction. Only using somewhat basic stuff and using only what I’ve got sitting around.

So… Here’s what I’ve got in front of me:

  • A pile of warm white straw hat LEDs
  • Some J177 JFETs
  • TTP223 touch sensor boards
  • TP4056 charging + protection circuit boards
  • A Samsung 35E
  • A nearly empty container of O’Keeffe’s Working Hands

I’m thinking of making touch lamp that I can mount in my headboard, at my computer desk, or perhaps over one of my kids’ bunks to read by at night.

The JFET can be used to construct a basic low-power constant current source. The touch sensor can be configured in a locking state to toggle the light on/off. The battery will run through the TP4056 board, and that’s where LVP will come from. And it’ll all get fitted (hopefully) neatly into the O’Keeffe’s container.

Pics coming soon.

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Ehh, scratch that with the JFET. I tried it last night and only got 2.6 mA with VGS=0. Likely because after the LED drops the voltage, there’s very little voltage actually seen at the JFET.

New plan for current regulation: I have a bunch of CN5710 sitting around. They’re like 7135’s except you can set the current with a resistor. Well, that and they’re high side instead of low side, but that’s not a big deal.

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Just drew up a schematic:

And a quick test of the TTP223 configured in Locking (toggle switch), Active Low mode. I tested current handling as the datasheet says it can source 4 mA or sink 8 mA. It actually sank 32 mA. That should be plenty for this project but I don’t want to run it that far out of spec, so I’ll just use it to enable the CN5710.

gchart
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Sorry for the rash of posts. Finally allowing my brain to have a thunderstorm.

Uh oh, now my mind is going down a rabbit trail. I was thinking the CN5710 would be easier to solder to if I mounted it on a PCB and that would give it a little bit of heat sinking.

Then I looked at my CN5710 driver and realized that it’s Anduril-capable. It wouldn’t be that much more difficult…

So… do I make what I imagine is the world’s first Anduril light with 5mm LEDs? Sounds like a bit of overkill, but that’s half the fun, amiright?

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gchart wrote:
Sorry for the rash of posts. Finally allowing my brain to have a thunderstorm.

Uh oh, now my mind is going down a rabbit trail. I was thinking the CN5710 would be easier to solder to if I mounted it on a PCB and that would give it a little bit of heat sinking.

Then I looked at my CN5710 driver and realized that it’s Anduril-capable. It wouldn’t be that much more difficult…

So… do I make what I imagine is the world’s first Anduril light with 5mm LEDs? Sounds like a bit of overkill, but that’s half the fun, amiright?


Do it! Agreed, that is half the fun.
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Anduril it is!

Just prepared the driver. I had to strip the components of an old test driver (that got fried) first before I could reuse the PCB. Truly pulling things out of the scrap pile for this one. Since Anduril has LVP, I won’t need the protected version of the TP4056 board, so I’m using a “regular” one. I also shorted Jumper A on the TTP223 to configure at as “Active Low” instead of the default “Active Ground”. With our e-switch drivers, all of them I’ve seen we switches as Active Low. The “host” is pictured as well.

Next up:

  • Filing the corners off the TP4056 board to fit the contours of the host
  • Create an Anduril config for this project and compile & flash it

gchart
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Cranking through this. TP4056 board is now (at least mostly) filed down. Anduril has been config’ed, compiled, and flashed. This was done in Linux, but I’ve also got Anduril for the 1-Series working just fine in Windows as well.

Up next:

  • Make openings in the body for the charging port and LEDs
  • Make electrical connections
  • Test functionality
  • Glue everything in place

gchart
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All of the parts approximately in their respective places, sans wires.

Also, just made the hole for the charging port. Drilled a couple holes and then opened between them with a knife.

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Looking to see where the rabbit hole leads you/us Wink
Good work, keep it up Wink

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It is good to see this underway!

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I love it. Anduril driver, 5mm LEDs, on-board charging, and a small tub of “Working Hands”

gchart
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Current draw measured. In standby, the draw is a measly 7.5 uA. With LEDs at full brightness it’s 84 mA. With how I had the CN5710 set, I was figuring around 90 mA, so not too shabby.


Driver testing is complete. Anduril is fully functional! [WARNING – flashing lights!]

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I love black magic and trying to learn a new language. Nice work. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
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thanks Moose!

Next up:

  • Drill holes for the LEDs in the lid
  • Finalize electrical connections
  • Glue everything in place
  • Final testing & documentation
  • Enjoy a beverage

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I don’t know where you grow these ideas, but they’re cool!!! Cool

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Your skills are impressive Beer

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Touch-switch, Anduril, 5mm leds, übercool! Cool

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Small update, but it’s an update I guess. I drilled the holes for the LEDs and dry fitted them. Not quite sure what I’ll use to glue them in place… UV-cured glue? Hot melt glue? I’m out of clear epoxy. I’ve got JB weld but that would look unsightly. Probably just the UV glue I guess.

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Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
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Here we go! Build is finished.

One of the more difficult things that I didn’t anticipate is that this kind of plastic doesn’t take glue very well. Hot glue was a no-go. Original Gorilla Glue fell right off. Gorilla Glue Super (CA) Glue Gel didn’t do any better. I ended up having some success with DAP RapidFuse.

MtnDon
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Gteat! Very tidy inside.

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Nice work ! Thumbs Up Beer

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