[Review] Convoy T2 : AA flashlight (200-400 lumens)

Yep, the good old Xeno E03...

I bought a new version of T2 a month ago. Really nice little light for the price, and very practical. 4 modes (1-10-35-100%) are spaced nicely. No strobe modes. Nichia 219c 4000k is a tad cooler than Zebralight`s H53c Xp-L2 4000k, and CRI seems to be a bit lower, but in general it`s very nice tint. Beam quality/geometry is also nice, I mean it can be used both for close and medium-range tasks. Nice throw for this size. I use it with NiMh. An ideal light for everyday use at your home/garden. I`ve never used my S2+ since I got T2.
P.S.I had Fenix LD10 almost 10 years ago and consider T2 as a happy reincarnation of that beloved little light with then fantastic 100 lumen from one AA (and CRI about 50 I think). So now T2 has about 200Lm on max, and for me this is absolutely enough for light of this size.

Did you check for PWM in all modes?

No, I didn`t.

I got both the older Convoy T2 (XP-G2) and the newer Convoy T2 (Nichia 219C)

The older Convoy T2 has 3 brightness levels + strobe mode (quick double-press).
Slow PWM on non-max brightness level.

The new Convoy T2 has 4 brightness levels only, no strobe mode.

Per my testing (I use "shine light through small fan blades" method), the new Convoy T2:
- when using AA battery, there is No PWM on all brightness levels.
- when using Li-Ion battery, there is No PWM on Lowest and Max brightness level. The middle 2 levels have "very fast" PWM (I have to look very closely at the light shining on the fan blades to detect the "PWM" pattern). Unlike on the older Convoy T2, where the PWM is easily noticeable when on non-max brightness level.

Another thing is that I believe the current is well-regulated for the new Convoy T2:
- when I used a Vapcell P1418A (1.5v Li-Ion AA battery), I measure 1 Amp tailcap current on Max brightness level.

If I use the same Vapcell P1418A 1.5v Li-Ion AA on the older Convoy T2, the protection circuit will trigger, tailcap current is higher than 2+ Amps. (seems like the P1418A battery will trigger shut off if it detects power consumption higher than about 2 Amps for more than a few seconds).

Hmmm... I seem to have missed this light.

I'm a hopeless 1xAA junkie.

A 4000K 219C T2 is now a 'Happy Fall Equinox' gift to myself.

slmjim

Where is a good place to get it? What size is the driver? I wouldn’t mind a spare driver.

Convoy Store at AliExpress, directly from Simon :wink:

Received my T2 from Convoy - with LH351D - 4000k (new 4 mode, without strobe). What an amazing flashlight is this. I’m starting to understand why one does never have enough flashlights :slight_smile:

I measured current on new NiMH AA:
table(table#posts).
|Power|Current|
|1%|0,020A|
|10%|0,113A|
|35%|0,407A|
|100%|3,300A|

Just out of curiosity - please can anyone verify? With my other multimeter (I don’t trust it that much) - I measured only 2,47A on 100%.

Is the output sub lumen at 1%?

Thanks

That lh351 looks tempting.

I also got new T2 and i couldn’t be more happier.

This is rocket comparing to Tool AA and similar AA lights

I don't understand why people need 4 levels. For me low - high would be perfect and NO mode memory!

I have the old version (3 levels + strobe, no 14500 support) and like the design very much but not its driver.

So, if anyone know about a boost driver with only low/high and no mode memory please let me know.

I also recieved my T2 from Convoy – with LH351D – 4000k yesterday. I am pleased with everything so far, but the seating of the LED base is not well done. As the head unscrews easily, I decided to have a look just in case. I wondered why I did not see any thermal grease spilling over the edges of the LED base, so I unsoldered and removed it. Underneath, I found a blob of grey thermal grease, but it was only spread to about 8mm diameter and the layer appeared quite thick. I cleaned it away and found a little “nub” at the center of the faced off seat of the LED base. These appear if the tool is adjusted a bit off center. This nub prevented the LED base from seating fully, so that a gap was still there. I scraped the nub off with a fine chisel. But the LED base still would not fully seat, this time because the outer edges of the LED seat would have a slight radius where the edges of the LED base would get caught before seating.
In this image you can see at the 1 o clock position that the edges of the LED base just barely fit, and if there is a radius between the outer wall and the bottom surface, it will get caught.

So I ground a 0.5mm chamfer at the lower outer edge of the LED base, and now it would fully seat.
I remember having had the same issue with a Convoy S9.

I do not think this will cause a lot of problems as the T2 is fairly low on power, but still, with 1mm more diameter of the LED seat and proper adjustment of the tool all this would not be an issue.

I have not dismantled mine yet… Is the MCPCB copper? I did test a lighted tailcap board that I had on an S2, just by contact and I worked! What diameter is the tail switch board? Guess I may as well ask what the MCPCB board diameter is as well. I have stock of 10mm, 12mm and 16mm for small stuff and this looks like it could be in between. The 351D 4000k is not bad, but it may have to get a 219b or XP-L hi 5A2.

Interesting what Julez found. I took apart a 3X21A SFT-40 tonight and found it to be similar: one blob in about the center, thick as silly putty. The shelf surface looks clean but there's some low profile solder out of place on the back side of the MCPCB. This is gonna need some sanding, then treated with MX-4.

I haven't undone it yet either and I'll be darned if I can tell what the mcpcb is. I think it's aluminum but honestly I can't get a good view of any edges except where the flats where snipped, and just barely so. Switch is 16mm (actually a bit less but a standard 16mm full round will fit fine). The mcpcb is oddly shaped for anti-twist retention without using screws. A 16mm round would fit but would rely on the led wires for support as the bezel is screwed down. You can see in the pic above that there are two small tabs...those are about 16.5mm across and the rest of the board is a tad less than 16mm. Butterfly gasket. That was measured in the light but close enough for government work. If you can keep the whole thing flat, I would imagine that you could stake tabs on a full round with a small punch and a decent whack, or maybe just drill and tap (the head is shallow enough that you should be able to turn a tap in there close to the sidewalls...and assuming that the shelf is thick enough for a few threads...).

I'm sure Simon would send spares if asked but I don't see them in his store currently. The bare host does include this special mcpcb, though...in the lone customer review you can see a photo of it: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001638095881.html

The one in that photo does look like normal copper. The light I have was bought just a few months ago, not sure if it's any different from the previous generation other than the driver.

Side note: posted in the mod thread but I tracked down some ring magnets that fit the T2 tailcap. Thin, so I had to stack two of them, but it works great. Simon has ordered some samples from a manufacturer in a thicker 4mm size, so maybe he'll have those for sale soon. Love the light and it's even better now with both a tail clicky and magnetic-sticky. Pics: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/10243

I see that it does look copper! If that is the case, no need to swap it just the emitter. I really do like the driver. Bought 3 extra for other AA/14500 lights. I have to find a 5mm by about 8-10mm long for battery contact for them.

If you don't mind cutting and finishing, these little rod assortments are quite handy to have around. It's a "hard" brass so it's not the best for some applications (rivets, for example) but it'd be great for this. They're about 4" in length and all four of the kits in brass and stainless I got were accurately sized save for a couple oddballs in the mix. So far all that I've used have looked clean without voids or weird spots inside. Lots of "brand names" for these...I'm sure someone has just 5mm, too, but sometimes just one size or a couple of rods costs more than these assortments.

https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Assorted-Diameter-2mm-8mm-Miniature/dp/B07BVRKJZF/