I just modded mine: What did you mod today? - #9588 by MascaratumB
Put a 15mm FET driver with Bistro HD OTSM, a 10mm DTP MCPCB with a Luxeon V2 3000K and a pebbled TIR !
Me likes 
About the heat…I’ll need to have the unprotected Shockli cells to make it go hoooooot 
Do you have a link to the optic? I modded mine to use a CWF driver, but I’m not overly fond of the stock optic’s beam profile
I assume you mean Dragon Mini driver? Any details you can share like if the 7135’s fit as is? Sanding? Is there a 7135 on top side?
Yes I do! Here it is
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2048689105.html
Make sure you pick the right one as they have different options! This is a quite nice floody beam
Is this driver available separately? I have an SS incoming (2700K SST-20 since I like it) but think the low PWM frequency could bother me.
I ordered a new driver from Rey (he just released new drivers for his lights) for my non functional Enogear. Hopefully it will workout well
Hum, nice I will be looking for your feedback on it! Do you intend to use it with Ni-MH or Li-Ion?
I am asking because an older version whined too much with Li-Ion , besides the PWM it had :confounded:
This new driver seems to be different and that shortcut to turbo and other configuration options are quite nice
I switched both of mine to the DTP 12mm PCB’s from MTN:
It does fit with a bit of extra tightening (you really should apply a drop of glue when you get everything how you want so the head doesn’t come off “first” with the pill section being double threaded).
With FET + this DTP pcb + Vapcell H10 flat top it gets scorching hot in seconds. That cell is just absurd. I will keep the vapcell gold in there like I had before but at least now I feel better about the PCB.
Cool
That PCB is larger than the one I have and also larger than the original, but maybe it will dissipate heat a little better due to more contact with the pill
I also feel what you mentioned about the glue, but I didn’t do that, because in case I need to take it out again, I would struggle more :zipper_mouth_face:
Ahah, my Vapcell H10 is topped so it becomes bigger than I wanted, but I have some orange Shockli on the way, flat top, that will make the job :smiling_imp:
BTW, did you manage to use the retainingring with your driver? Was it thin enough to be put back in place?
Yes the ring is in place. It’s probably a half turn or so less threading but it’s there. I put one of those brass buttons on the bottom so only unprotected flat top 14500 fit now.
Nice! My driver was way too thick to put the ring back in place. Glad you made it with yours
Will you bet on the Vapcell Gold then, not the H10?
Yes, for this light and FET only driver. SS is just terrible for heat path. Gold takes 3-4x as long to get to same temp feeling. If you end up sagging that tail spring from leaving it on you are in for a world of regret 
Not sure if that would happen or not but seems possible?
BTW, does anyone know more about the FF copper AA light?
https://www.ff-light.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63&product_id=72
According to the specs it’s even smaller than the SS light!
CRX modded it a while ago:
Thanks! As I was afraid, the thermal path is terrible and there’s not much that can be done about it.
Not for me then. But I notice that there’s also a brass one with micro USB charging. 2 mm longer than steel, 1 mm smaller diameter. Worse looking.
Any more info about it?
https://www.ff-light.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=74
ADDED: I see it’s out of stock…
Thanks again!
:+1:
The copper cube? if so, the one I got? Junk. Emitter was way off center. Bezel just fell out after handling it for a few minutes. Driver was trimmed down to fit, which is fine but, nobody paid attention to where the emitter was. So it’s way off center and you really can’t fix it. Oh BTW, the emitter is on the actual driver. Copper threads for the bezel and the pill are stripped in some areas and not complete in other areas. If you can get the pill out it ends up ruining the threads. Single hole in the pill looks like it was drilled out by a pissed off 5 year old.
I am debating on whether I will rebuild it myself with a actual driver and MCPCB. Or send it to a friend of mine who has more patience than I do. It wouldn’t be outrageously difficult. There is enough room for adjustment in the tail and head that I could build up an actual pill for the separate parts. Might have to go to a flat top cell only but I will cross that road when I get there.
I never contacted FF about the light. I am not complaining about their customer service or anything like that. Jackie has always treated me well in the past and present. I am sure he would have made good on this light but, honestly, I don’t want another one. They are haphazardly put together with parts that don’t seem like they belong together. I doubt I would have received a better example. So, I will decide what I want to do with it. I have a few CC AA/14500 drivers I may try. I would still have to fix the body of the light as well. Machining marks need to be taken care of.
As you can see. My sample looks nothing like the advertised light. It looks…………uh………pre broken.
Here’s the product page that lists the specs, modes, etc. Also has a picture of both sides. No sanding or anything was necessary. However, it’s a bit of a small driver for the host, so the retaining ring only held the driver from coming out, it did not keep the driver in place, there was plenty of room for it to move side to side. To solve this I just put some solder down to connect the retaining ring to the negative pad on the driver.
Just a note, the stock Nichia LED went blue and fried very quickly with this driver. I put an SST20 I had handy in there and haven’t had issues, though I could have fit a larger/better MCPCB in there if I had wanted to do it better.
The modes are great and with the stock optic I was very surprised with the amount of throw it had. The output is pretty great on high. But I don’t need so much throw, so the low mode is far too focused in my opinion, hence my desire for a wider optic.
Edit: seeing Yokiamy’s post about using a Reylight driver is interesting however. While I like everything the CWF driver offers, I wouldn’t mind having Rey’s multi-chemistry support as the CWF is 10440/14500 only.